Bad luck. I haven't had any problems leaving my car for 2 weeks unplugged. The car is supposed to go into sleep mode or whatever it's called if not used for a few days to preserve the 12 volt batteries as far as I understand. Others have reported 12V battery issues after leaving the car unused for periods of time. I do worry about 12V battery failure which seems to be the Achilles heal of electric cars.

 

Sorry to hear about your troubles. I hope JLR will do a buyback for you.

 

Could the power distribution unit be a contributing factor?

 

I've got a new twist on the traction battery fault. I just got our 2019 w/ 46,000 miles on it back from the dealer, where it spent about 6 or 7 weeks trying to diagnose this problem. Previously, it had a new 12v battery installed, and at our last visit the major part replaced was the inverter (part T4K16513). We had it back about 3 days, when the battery fault showed up again, and then 2 days ago it had a charge fault. Yesterday I was out running errands. When I put the car into reverse, I heard a 'click click' followed by a 'clunk clunk', and I had no reverse. I happened to be near the dealer, and drove it straight there. I was able to replicate the problem in the service bay for my service advisor. I have a feeling the car is going to be gone a long time, this time.

Has anyone had the click click clunk clunk sound, followed by loss of gear? Also, I'm starting to get nervous that this car is having such trouble, and we're getting near the 60,000 mile warranty limit. Does anyone know if the 100,000 battery warranty covers just the battery, or also the related drivetrain gear? I'm assuming this is similar to an ICE drivetrain warranty, but if it were battery only, I think we may have to get rid of the car. I hope not, because despite it spending months in the shop over the past 3 years, we really love the car.

 

We could jump to a few conclusions and confusions about this. It could be related to the recent repair (eg. a loose connector upon reassembly), or be a coincidental issue. Maybe the wiring harness issue of early cars has now affected your car due to the disassembly/reassembly. It could be switch pack for the gear selection has experienced a problem. It could be a loose 12V battery cable.

You appear to have had messages come up but you didn't immediately take it back for investigation. Why ignore them and wait for a bigger problem?

The traction battery warranty is just that - a traction battery warranty. It is not for other components of the car. This is all explained in the warranty information you were give at time of sale and available at Jaguar website.

Before jumping to the "get rid of the car" point, wait for the dealer to diagnose the issue and let you know about what it takes to fix it and how long that might be. If a person experiences a flat tire should that person jump to "get rid of the car" because the other tires might fail? Probably not even it would take weeks get to a replacement tire of the correct specifications, yet the tires are components of the car just like the drivetrain, wiring, batteries, etc. The service parts situation is impacting all makes and models, not just Jaguar.

And there is no guaranty that any replacement vehicle wouldn't break down. I just read an article of a brand new Hummer experiencing a break down on the road with the owner getting less than stellar assistance from OnStar.

 

We could jump to a few conclusions and confusions about this. It could be related to the recent repair (eg. a loose connector upon reassembly), or be a coincidental issue. Maybe the wiring harness issue of early cars has now affected your car due to the disassembly/reassembly. It could be switch pack for the gear selection has experienced a problem. It could be a loose 12V battery cable.

You appear to have had messages come up but you didn't immediately take it back for investigation. Why ignore them and wait for a bigger problem?

The traction battery warranty is just that - a traction battery warranty. It is not for other components of the car. This is all explained in the warranty information you were give at time of sale and available at Jaguar website.

Before jumping to the "get rid of the car" point, wait for the dealer to diagnose the issue and let you know about what it takes to fix it and how long that might be. If a person experiences a flat tire should that person jump to "get rid of the car" because the other tires might fail? Probably not even it would take weeks get to a replacement tire of the correct specifications, yet the tires are components of the car just like the drivetrain, wiring, batteries, etc. The service parts situation is impacting all makes and models, not just Jaguar.

And there is no guaranty that any replacement vehicle wouldn't break down. I just read an article of a brand new Hummer experiencing a break down on the road with the owner getting less than stellar assistance from OnStar.

Well, to answer your questions, taking the car back after the problem resurfaced was in process. My dealership is backed up for weeks, and I can't just slip back in on demand. Yah, we both have early cars...I see you joined this forum 10 days after me in 2019. I know my dealer was in touch w/ the folks in the UK, so surely they know about the wiring harness issue. Regarding getting rid of the car, this is nothing I'd do immediately...like I said it may have to be considered as we head toward 60,000 miles within the next 12 months. There is no guarantee our next car wouldn't have problems, but this car has spent many months at the dealership since 2019. Maybe 6? I've got an old super complicated Mercedes that I expect to be broken most of the time, but my hopes for a primary car is something better than the car being at the shop 20% of the time. With that said, amazingly, we love the car so much I'd consider another. Glutton for punishment, I guess.

 

Any update on this?

 

Sounds like the wiring harness issue I had. Dealer could not get on board with what the forum taught me, and what I told them, until my third or fourth failure. Finally they replaced the wiring harness and no probs running on maybe mos. I lemoned the car, and settled w/JLR, still have the car and hoping this really is the final fix.

My advice is to push for the wiring harness fix. Good luck. Otherwise a great ride.

 

@Josephus, you're welcome. I'm not always right but I'll try to help us all enjoy these cars based on the info observed and shared.

 

Uggg...there are so many of these threads, it is tough to know where to post. But since I've already been on this one, I thought I'd try here again. So, as I mentioned above, my car was back at the dealer for many weeks w/ traction battery faults, and it was supposedly remedied with the part mentioned in my last post. Within weeks, the warning light was back on. Pulled out of the garage yesterday backing out...no brakes, and the car lit up like a Christmas tree. Traction battery fault, the P and/or R light was flashing, and the car would not move. Thankfully my wife was going like 2mph since she was just creeping out of the garage, since there were no brakes. This is another level of problem, when we're talking about no brakes. Needless to say, this is critical. So the car would not boot back up, P or R continuously flashing, and it got towed in--again!. Dealership tries hard and works with engineers in the UK, but the car does not seem fixable.

I don't think they've tried a new wiring harness yet...seems like a good start. New battery? New everything? I don't understand how with the dozens and dozens of hours trying to fix this car it just can't be done. Oh, and side issue, backup camera still doesn't work despite numerous tries to fix.

I received a modest arbitrated settled for Jaguar. Any lawyers here who know if this could still be litigated? The brake problem seems to put this in a new category.

I've been here since the very beginning in early 2019, and on record many times saying how awesome the I Pace is, at least when working, but geez, this just has to stop. Any help will be appreciated. I've got videos that I can't seem to upload because they are too long, but could share privately if anyone is interested.

On a side note, my Mercedes has been broken at the dealer since August. We've had 2 loaner cars for probably 4 out of the last 6 months. Time for Honda?

 

I'm no lawyer but a good start is to google the lemon laws in your state. The cat may be out of range at this point but the Merc might be a candidate.

 

There is a difference between no brakes and no power assist for braking. No brakes to me means that absolutely nothing happens to stop the car when foot is applied to brake pedal regardless of pressure (been there in another car!). No power assist means one has to press harder on the brake pedal in order to get braking of the car.

The 2019 models have two 12V batteries. Do you have paperwork listing parts replaced before? If so, what are the part numbers? The one for a 12V battery would be of interest. If the startup battery was replaced but not the auxiliary battery, then we have an explanation for no power assist on the brakes as well as other messages that appear when the auxiliary battery fails. You might have a Power Supply Distribution Box issue. This could explain a few things too, including a failure to keep the auxiliary battery charged. I'll have to dig up what the flashing P & R mean.

Or it could be something else, but it should be explainable with fault codes that the dealer should be able to retrieve.

 

There is a difference between no brakes and no power assist for braking. No brakes to me means that absolutely nothing happens to stop the car when foot is applied to brake pedal regardless of pressure (been there in another car!). No power assist means one has to press harder on the brake pedal in order to get braking of the car.

The 2019 models have two 12V batteries. Do you have paperwork listing parts replaced before? If so, what are the part numbers? The one for a 12V battery would be of interest. If the startup battery was replaced but not the auxiliary battery, then we have an explanation for no power assist on the brakes as well as other messages that appear when the auxiliary battery fails. You might have a Power Supply Distribution Box issue. This could explain a few things too, including a failure to keep the auxiliary battery charged. I'll have to dig up what the flashing P & R mean.

Or it could be something else, but it should be explainable with fault codes that the dealer should be able to retrieve.

Ayepace, I’m not sure where to post, but hopefully maybe you’ll see this. My 2019;has the two batteries. And I’ve read it’s possible both batteries have to jumped? I’ve had problems before and have been able to jump only the aux battery to get parking brake off. This time, nothing, I only have one lithium jumper so I’ve tried alternating between the two batteries with no luck. Nothing works; key fob, interior lights, dash display, etc …

 

Reads like your startup (the larger) battery is totally dead. Connect jumper to positive post and body ground (like the cross brace spanning the back of the frunk). You may have to remove the connections from the negative post (and insulate it) to prevent the battery from being a drain on the system while you get it powered up.

If that gets it powered up when you press the start button (foot off brake), give it a few minutes to see if the auxiliary (small) battery gets enough charge from brake boost to work if it is drained too. If you don't get brake boost, then you need both batteries replaced.

If all seems well, try removing the jumper and reconnect negative connections at the start up battery. You need to keep the car powered up while doing this.

You need to get the car to dealer to have it checked to ensure the parts involved in 12v charging are up to date on software and haven't physically failed.

 

I had both batteries fail, after a time. I had to use my wife's X5 battery for a jumper to the I-Pace Aux battery and a small lithium battery jumping the Starter battery. With these 2 both connected at the same time I got the car started and removed the jumpers, then drove it to the dealership. The Aux battery blew a 30 amp fuse on my small lithium battery jumper rig and put a load on the big jumpers from the BMW prior to hooking up the starter battery. (I hooked up the Aux battery 1st and did not try it the other way) Hope Ayepace's order above gets you running.

 

The Aux battery blew a 30 amp fuse on my small lithium battery jumper rig and put a load on the big jumpers from the BMW prior to hooking up the starter battery. (I hooked up the Aux battery 1st and did not try it the other way) Hope Ayepace's order above gets you running.

I don't think the battery blew the fuse. Notice the 100A fuse going to the smaller cable attached at the fuse block on top of the small battery hold down. That circuit powers the parking lock, the brake booster and the front EPIC. From the 100A it goes to the left junction box to feed 50A, 15A and 5A fuses for the those circuits.

 

Borrowed a battery charger and connected to the starter battery while the lithium jumper still connected to aux battery. Key fob worked, nothing worked before. Jumped in and drove it to dealer. The aux battery was replaced 3/22, but not the starter battery. Starter battery is over 4 years old as this 19’ model was received in 1/19. Hopefully starter battery didn’t damage aux battery?

 

The two batteries are on different circuits with the Power Supply Distribution Box between them. One cannot damage the other.

At least you were able to get it started up with a good battery charger connected to the start up battery and not having to disconnect the negative. I've once experienced an ICE vehicle that had a battery so dead, connecting jumper leads to both posts of the battery would not get the car started. I had to move the negative to a ground on the engine (which the I-PACE doesn't have of course).