I had the same choice back in August: low milage dealer demo being sold as new with tax credit, or 20K 2019 FE used. The final cost on the 2019 FE was just a little lower considering the tax credit, but it had an excellent battery health report and the "new" one didn't (similar but not quite as bad as yours). The FE also was loaded with options.

You can see from my sig which way I went.

In the end, these batteries are warrantied very well, and I don't know if that battery health report is so bad that I'd run away if I liked the car otherwise.

Are you sure that the dealer allowed the car to fully charge and go through a cell balancing before the battery health report was run?

 

Thanks @Pollo de muerte !

The thing is, you had the battery report for the FE beforehand, so it was an easier choice. I don't think I'll be able to get the battery report for the other car (the one with more miles) before I lose this one.

Regarding the tests, the first time the result was 81,5% (no analysis per cell) and I assume they hadn't even charged the car beforehand. This time I told them to charge it and leave it plugged in over the weekend in order to do the cell balancing.

I'm guessing they did, but still, it's been charged once after who knows how many months it was unplugged. I'm sure it will get better after a few charge/discharge cycles, but it still feels like this number is not normal, as I said in the original post.

On the other hand, I'd hate to lose this opportunity if it's something that will improve (as much as it should) down the line.

//edit: To provide a bit more info, the higher mileage car (which is also 7 months older) is an HSE vs SE for the newer one and it's also 7.5K cheaper! So we're talking about a very big difference. So it would be a no brainer otherwise, the only reason I'd prefer the newer one would be if it had a "like new" battery. But this doesn't seem to be the case.

 

Thanks @Pollo de muerte !
This time I told them to charge it and leave it plugged in over the weekend in order to do the cell balancing.

I know if I leave my charger plugged in, it just shuts off at full charge.
What is the purpose of leaving it plugged in?
So i was wondering how can it cell balance when the charger is off and not drawing any power?
Internal cell balancing with no external power? If so, then why not cell balance unplugged.

 

See if you can get the owner of the used car to do the following:

• Charge the car to full.

• Power up the vehicle without foot on brake

•Press brake and accelerator fully at the same time for at least 10 seconds (you'll see a change in range guesstimate)

•Release pedals

That procedure will change the estimated range to factory parameters and ignore recent driving style.

If the reported mileage on a full charge is above 240, then the battery should be in decent shape.

That is not nearly as good as real battery health report, but it's better than nothing.

 

Hello everyone

I've been looking for a used I-pace for a while. I found one that ticked all the boxes like low mileage (less than 3.000 miles), relatively new (September 2019) and specs I want. It's also a Jaguar Approved car from a Jaguar dealer, so this minimizes any risk.

However, when I asked for a detailed battery report, this is what I received:

Cell 1	89%​
Cell 2	85%​
Cell 3	89%​
Cell 4	87%​
Cell 5	84%​
Cell 6	84%​
Cell 7	84%​
Cell 8	84%​
Cell 9	82%​
Cell 10	84%​
Cell 11	82%​
Cell 12	84%​
Cell 13	82%​
Cell 14	82%​
Cell 15	82%​
Cell 16	82%​
Cell 17	82%​
Cell 18	82%​
Cell 19	85%​
Cell 20	85%​
Cell 21	84%​
Cell 22	88%​
Cell 23	88%​
Cell 24	85%​
Cell 25	87%​
Cell 26	85%​
Cell 27	87%​
Cell 28	87%​
Cell 29	88%​
Cell 30	85%​
Cell 31	89%​
Cell 32	87%​
Cell 33	84%​
Cell 34	87%​
Cell 35	88%​
Cell 36	85%​

This is an average of 85% and also quite unbalanced (82-89%).

To me, this doesn't look normal for a car a little over a year old and with such low mileage.

I know it's probably been sitting in the lot for a while (I guess without any charge cycles recently besides being charged before the test) and this should affect battery health. I also know some of that "damage" might be reverted after it's been charged/uncharged a few times.

But still, even when I take that into account, I wasn't expecting such a low number and I don't know how big of a difference the above might make.

I've also found another car which is quite cheaper because it has 27.000 miles. I preferred the "new" one, but if its battery is not in a corresponding "like new" state, then I guess I'll prefer the cheaper option.

What do you think?

To me the questions are warranty and price/features (I see your later post regarding the two choices - if I understand correctly an older HSE for less but with 27k miles, or a newer SE with 3k miles but for more $$$).
Assuming you get the remaining warranty for both car and battery (5yrs with no more than 25% degradation), I would not worry about the battery health unless you plan on regular long distance trips. If that battery rpt is accurate (maybe, maybe not) it may reflect "one time" battery issues that won't get worse, or continued degradation in which case you'll have a warranty claim.
For a significant price drop from new ($30-40k price tag) I'd be very tempted. Anything in the $40-50k range once adjusted for the new car tax rebates is probably not worth considering. [While probably not happening anymore, forum members getting new in the $50-60k range, minus $7500 federal rebates and other state rebates, should be your benchmark]
Just my thoughts.🙂

 

Thank both!

@Qtown charger
First of all, I'm in Europe, so prices are different. As I said, the HSE costs 7,5K less but is 7 months older (not a significant difference in my opinion) and has more miles (for which I also wouldn't care, besides any effect on battery).
Regarding warranty, both cars are under the "Jaguar Approved" program, which in Europe means 24 months warranty. So they both have the same warranty despite the 7 months difference in age, considering that the original manufacturer warranty in Europe is "only" 3 years.
As for the battery, I think here it's 30% degradation, not 25%.
Overall, I would only prefer the SE if its battery was "like new", otherwise I'd go for the HSE.

@Pollo de muerte
Thanks for the tip, I'll see if that's possible!

 

Thank both!

@Qtown charger
First of all, I'm in Europe, so prices are different. As I said, the HSE costs 7,5K less but is 7 months older (not a significant difference in my opinion) and has more miles (for which I also wouldn't care, besides any effect on battery).
Regarding warranty, both cars are under the "Jaguar Approved" program, which in Europe means 24 months warranty.....

Sorry, I did not catch the location. That said, I feel my point regarding the battery warranty is still valid. As a used car more features at a lower price, albeit with more miles, would be more attractive to me unless the car looks used and abused.
As a point of reference, what % of a realistic walk off the lot new price car are you talking about?

 

There as been discussion on this. Either cell balancing happens as it charges, or it happens after reaching 100%. I have observed that on a level 2 charger, once it gets to 100% charge, it drops to 0 amps, then starts up again at low amperage for period of time. This may be cell balancing or something else going on.

This "after 100%" behaviour is not observed on level 3 chargers. They tend to stop and ask for the charger to be disconnected before the car might ask to start charging again.

sysmos is not in the US so the experience may be different based on the charging ability there. Is it 3 phase 240V, unlike US single phase 240V for level 2 charging?

We also don't know if the BCCM and BECM have the most current software versions.

Given the use of adaptive logic, it might take several discharge/charge cycles to get a true picture of the health for a car that has been gathering dust for a while.

 

I recently had my battery tested and they did not charge to 100% either before testing.
The test showed an average 92.5%.
Since no mention of battery temperature I wonder what the difference would be if tested with battery temp. of 0 degrees?
Just a thought.

 

Odometer at around 8743 at time of service.

 

Today I obtained a Battery Health report on my April 2019 I-Pace with 29264 miles. I did not remind the dealer that I wanted the test done at 100% State of charge. I had fully charged the car to 100% before leaving home and had a reading of the guessometer of 249 miles. I drove 12 miles to the dealer at less than 45mph and at the dealer the car said it had 242 miles range left with a 96% of battery capacity remaining. Nothing impressive here.

 

Interesting that the report states high eighty % for all the modules. What is your current actual range, let's say mixed driving at nice temps?

 

sciencegeek, I am not sure if you are talking to me or not. I think an 80 mile trip I took a few weeks ago with my bike on the back, is a good representative of my mileage, I didn't use the heater or the ac or the seat ventilation. I drove 160 miles total with 60 miles left. Some 70mph driving in there, majority was 60mph.

 

Balancing is supposed to occur as the vehicle charges. However there is that extra 10 minutes or so on level 2 charging that pushes a few more electrons in at a low charging rate. I have had it occur on level 3 charging too but it is a matter of reactionary timing of the charger when the car gets to 100%.

Once, recently, I triggered a full 1/2 hour of charging at just under 2kW rate at a 50 kW DCFC before I decided I had better things to do than to wait it out out of curiosity for the result. I think I did this by messing with preconditioning settings when it got to 99-100%. Unfortunately the charger was not supported by ChargePoint to provide a graph of the charging. I have doubts that I can recreate this.

 

Balancing is supposed to occur as the vehicle charges. However there is that extra 10 minutes or so on level 2 charging that pushes a few more electrons in at a low charging rate. I have had it occur on level 3 charging too but it is a matter of reactionary timing of the charger when the car gets to 100%.

Once, recently, I triggered a full 1/2 hour of charging at just under 2kW rate at a 50 kW DCFC before I decided I had better things to do than to wait it out out of curiosity for the result. I think I did this by messing with preconditioning settings when it got to 99-100%. Unfortunately the charger was not supported by ChargePoint to provide a graph of the charging. I have doubts that I can recreate this.

Hello. Please tell me why in my Pathfinder 328/374 program bought in China there is no option to enter the BECM block functions and perform a battery test?

 

Yes, thanks! I was just trying to see if the high 80 percentages of battery health translate to some loss of range, and if so how much. Sounds like your range is holding up ok. 🍺

 

I agree, it looks to be what I would expect a 3 year old(made 3 years ago) car to be.

 

Hello. Please tell me why in my Pathfinder 328/374 program bought in China there is no option to enter the BECM block functions and perform a battery test?

 

Pathfinder is obsolete and no longer supported. You need to use TOPIx Cloud (requires subscription and proper interface) or a third party tool with the function programmed into it (e.g. more than basic Autel tools) or other scan tools that allow you program selecting PIDs, etc.