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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
For those who needs to swap your winter tires yourself, and you do it for the first time, here is where you should jack the car. There are dedicated locations near each wheels, but it is more or less hidden, compared to other cars. The is a small plastic cap, that you need to remove (it pops easily with a screwdriver on each sides), in order to reveal the metal.

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I am coinsidering getting a 2nd set of Jaguar tires and doing the swap myself. Do you have 2 sets of Jaguar tires with Jaguar TPMS's and did the car automatically relearn the locations of each tire?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, I have 2 set of tires (3 seasons, winter), and 2 set of rims ( 20in for summer and 18in for winter), and 2 set of TPMS. When I bought my winter tires, they provided me with ´universal’ TPMS that can be reprogrammed as the original ones. When I swap the tires, the car does not see the differences. They suggested me not to store the 2nd set of tires close to the car on the driveway in order not to confuse the car with 2 signals
 

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Is it only necessary to remove the plastic cap/cover when using the scissors jack? When using a lift or a jack with a rubber pad/puck, where are the hard points?
 

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19 I-pace HSE Polaris/Fuji white with most options and a lot of accessories
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I have used a floor jack with a flat pad at those points. No need to remove the cover.
If your jack would have a non-flat surface pushing up there, then pull the cover loose just to be on the safe side.
A thick piece of wood might suffice as a insulator atop the floor jack lifting pad if you don't have a rubber or other suitable material, pad.

I've been able to pull the cover loose with just fingers. Pull straight down to unclip it, then a tug towards the underside of the car to release the tabs. There is a retaining "strap" part to the cover that will keep it attached as shown above, or it can be completely removed.

The "pinch weld" that would fit in the notch of a scissors jack is right there. The cover just makes it aerodynamic with the rest of the plastic trim.
 

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Inboard of the pinch weld is where the lift pads should make contact?
below are the rear and forward hard points with covers.

Grey Bumper Rectangle Vehicle door Gas

Tire Automotive tire White Black Tread
 

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I don’t believe others are saying to lift inboard of the seam (pinch weld). It appears they are recommending to lift using the seam. You might search the forum for pictures of the vehicle at a Jaguar shop on a lift to see how they do it.
Edit: found a picture. It look like the JLR dealership leaves the covers on and lifts it on the seams. I found a pic on this thread:

 

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I've always lifted my cars on the pinch weld using a flat top jack, but I have a little rubber puck with a groove cut in it to mate between the jack pad and the weld so that the pad does not bend the weld and cause rust. You can easily buy them online or make one from a hockey puck.
 

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I've always lifted my cars on the pinch weld using a flat top jack, but I have a little rubber puck with a groove cut in it to mate between the jack pad and the weld so that the pad does not bend the weld and cause rust. You can easily buy them online or make one from a hockey puck.
The picture shown in the thread referenced by Proxy shows lift pads on the seams and the covers still in place. On my I-Pace the bottom edge of the covers is not quite flush with the edge of the pinch weld so I will probably remove them before lifting.
 

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The cover can push up a bit so that its edge will be flush with the pinch weld. However, I recommend pulling it loose (it can remain hanging) and using a slotted block/pad/puck to span around the pinch weld much like the scissors jack does for cars provided with spare tires/tyres. Pressing on the solid metal on either side of the seam is better than pressing on the seam that can get flattened.

I wish all cars would be designed with a large pad area at the lift points to accommodate the typical post lifts in shops and floor jacks in home garages. These could easily be made to allow for locating and using an in-car jack too.
 

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The cover can push up a bit so that its edge will be flush with the pinch weld. However, I recommend pulling it loose (it can remain hanging) and using a slotted block/pad/puck to span around the pinch weld much like the scissors jack does for cars provided with spare tires/tyres. Pressing on the solid metal on either side of the seam is better than pressing on the seam that can get flattened.

I wish all cars would be designed with a large pad area at the lift points to accommodate the typical post lifts in shops and floor jacks in home garages. These could easily be made to allow for locating and using an in-car jack too.
That's what I presumed the space/frame between the battery module and the inboard side of the pinch weld should be used for, as long as the lift block/pad/puck fits in this space and is high enough to leave clearance. The pinch weld seems to be part of the same frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This is what I use. Found it on amazon or ebay, can't remember. Made it a little bit more robust with a ring of steel.

Automotive tire Hood Bumper Motor vehicle Wood
 

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I just rotated my tires and narrowed it down to these 4 choices. The pinch weld has stiffeners that made me believe that they were plenty strong to use a flat surface. Also, the inside and outside of the metal above the seam were different heights. I think if someone lifted with an adapter with a deep cut it might put lots of stress on only the inside sheet metal in the front seam. I chose the orange adapter for the rear lift points and the hockey puck for the front since the groove in the orange one wasn’t wide enough for the front.
Automotive tire Wood Rectangle Asphalt Automotive wheel system
 
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