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Hi, I'm reading the 2019 manual. On page 48 it explains how to "double lock" the car. It doesn't say what the difference is to regular locking. Do you know?
 

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Example single lock: Press the fob lock button once and the car locks. Somebody manages to break a break resistant window. They can reach in to the door handle and open the door.

Example double lock: Press the fob lock button twice and the car double-locks. Somebody manages to break the break resistant window. They won't be able to open the doors by reaching in and operating the door handle. The inside handles are inoperative.
 

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FYI ... on the Range Rover (and I assume the I Pace), double lock will run down the 12 volt battery if it is left engaged for extended periods. For long term storage, "single lock" uses the least power with unlocked and double locked using progressively more.
 

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FYI ... on the Range Rover (and I assume the I Pace), double lock will run down the 12 volt battery if it is left engaged for extended periods. For long term storage, "single lock" uses the least power with unlocked and double locked using progressively more.
What amount of time would you say qualifies for an extended period? Coincidentally 2 days ago I tried the double lock feature for the first time and 6 hours later my 12 volt primary battery died (got the "ok to drive with caution brake pedal feel reduced" warning lamp).
 

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That seems crazy! I'm going to measure the power draw of double lock. When the car is single-locked it draws virtually no power, consistent with the observation that the I-Pace can sit for weeks with not much loss in battery charge. (But that's the traction battery, maybe the 12V does drain and it doesn't show in the OBD reading)
 

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I'm making two assumptions: (a) double lock on the I Pace works like it does on Range Rovers; and (2) it pulls from the 12 volt battery.

When COVID hit, the RR forums had some posts regarding power draws as folks were suddenly not driving much anymore and getting low battery warnings. Double lock was found to draw on the 12V battery on those cars. From the RR owner's manual:

Once the full alarm system is armed, the alarm system activates if:
  • The bonnet, tailgate, or a door is opened.
  • Movement is detected within the vehicle's interior, including air currents (if intrusion sensor fitted).
  • The vehicle is sufficiently raised or tilted (If tilt sensor fitted).
Apparently the power requirements for the motion detector inside the vehicle is not trivial:

In this state, an open glass area may cause the alarm to sound, due to the movement of air currents. Make sure that all glass areas are fully closed before double locking the vehicle.
 

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All modern vehicles with alarm systems, even just simple remote control door locks, will have a power draw. The draw will be higher with the more features they have, such as sensors and cameras. I make it a habit to drive every vehicle I have as the "main vehicle" for a day at least once in a 2 or 3 week period. I'll take them for at least a 50 mile drive even if I have no other purpose for driving. I attach a trickle charger to them if I don't plan to drive for a longer period.

Double locking probably isn't going to make it worse. I just double locked mine overnight and it appears to be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That seems crazy! I'm going to measure the power draw of double lock. When the car is single-locked it draws virtually no power, consistent with the observation that the I-Pace can sit for weeks with not much loss in battery charge.
Agree. Seems unbelievable that the 12V battery can be drained when there is a whopper of a battery present.
 

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Thanks for all your input. My wife's Velar also did not have an issue with double locking over night (much longer than 6 hours). I will just write this experience as the ultimate coincidence that I double locked and found my 12 volt battery dead upon my return. The 12 volt battery must have been weak and just died the same day I double locked. Until I read this post last night, I never even considered the double lock as the drain.
 

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The double locking power draw issue on the Velar was related to not driving the car for a week or more due to the pandemic. I'm sure a few days at a time on double lock won't drain a healthy 12V battery. I'd avoid using it before leaving for a two week vacation.

Single lock draws less than unlocked on my wife's Velar. :confused:
 
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From the online manual at Jaguar Owner Information

Double locking secures the vehicle and prevents the doors from being unlocked or opened from inside or outside the vehicle.
Double locking provides extra security if the vehicle is left unattended. The vehicle cannot be opened by breaking a window and operating the doors from inside. Additionally, double locking arms the full alarm system.
Press the lock button on the smart key twice within 3 seconds to double lock the vehicle and arm the full alarm system. The hazard warning lights flash twice to confirm. If enabled, a double lock tone sounds.

Once the full alarm system is armed, the alarm system activates if:
  • The tailgate/taildoor/boot, a door, or the bonnet is opened.
  • Movement is detected within the vehicle's interior, including air currents.
  • The vehicle is raised or tilted, if a tilt sensor is fitted.
In the double locked state, an open glass area may cause the alarm to sound, due to the movement of air. Make sure that all glass areas are fully closed before double locking the vehicle.
 

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All modern vehicles with alarm systems, even just simple remote control door locks, will have a power draw. The draw will be higher with the more features they have, such as sensors and cameras. I make it a habit to drive every vehicle I have as the "main vehicle" for a day at least once in a 2 or 3 week period. I'll take them for at least a 50 mile drive even if I have no other purpose for driving. I attach a trickle charger to them if I don't plan to drive for a longer period.

Double locking probably isn't going to make it worse. I just double locked mine overnight and it appears to be fine.
I am not driving my beloved Kitty much, since about 30 Counties in CA have been put back on shut down by our "lovely" Governor. Does the I-Pace allow for a trickle charger, and if so....where is the hookup? I cannot find it. I am worried about my car sitting for 7+ days at a time and do not want the 12V battery to begin to cause problems on my 100% problem free Kitty. THANKS in advance :D
 

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Multiple choices to deal with this.

The batteries (remember there are two 12V batteries) appear to get charged when the main battery is charged. So if you plug in to charge the main battery, the others get charged. You can see the auxiliary battery get charged via WattCat.

If the main battery charging is not connected, an alternative is to connect the trickle charge directly to the large 12V battery. This requires removal of the center panel under the bonnet. I don't think I'd go to the extra work of connecting a charger to the smaller auxiliary battery. It is more difficult to access.

Periodically, you could just power up the car to the full ready-to-go mode and let it sit. This will engage the big drive battery for about 1 hour before it shuts down. The smaller batteries are charged during this time as if it were an ICE running and driving an alternator.

All of these suggestions are assuming the car is parked in a safe, controlled area where it won't be stolen or otherwise harmed. Use at your own risk.

It would be easier to just drive the car some distance and smell the less smog filled air (since others aren't driving ICE vehicles) for a while, even if you don't stop anywhere.
 

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Multiple choices to deal with this.

The batteries (remember there are two 12V batteries) appear to get charged when the main battery is charged. So if you plug in to charge the main battery, the others get charged. You can see the auxiliary battery get charged via WattCat.

If the main battery charging is not connected, an alternative is to connect the trickle charge directly to the large 12V battery. This requires removal of the center panel under the bonnet. I don't think I'd go to the extra work of connecting a charger to the smaller auxiliary battery. It is more difficult to access.

Periodically, you could just power up the car to the full ready-to-go mode and let it sit. This will engage the big drive battery for about 1 hour before it shuts down. The smaller batteries are charged during this time as if it were an ICE running and driving an alternator.

All of these suggestions are assuming the car is parked in a safe, controlled area where it won't be stolen or otherwise harmed. Use at your own risk.

It would be easier to just drive the car some distance and smell the less smog filled air (since others aren't driving ICE vehicles) for a while, even if you don't stop anywhere.
THANK YOU. I will just charge the car once in a while, or take a small drive in the neighborhood. My Kitty is safe. We not only live in a 24 hour Guard Gated Community, our 3 cars are parked all day & night in the garage. Thanks so much for getting back to me.

I honestly had NO idea that charging the main battery ("the engine") charges the two 12V batteries.
 

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I honestly had NO idea that charging the main battery ("the engine") charges the two 12V batteries.
I'm not sure if the two 12V are charged while charging the traction battery but they are not charged while the car is sitting unused. Per the owners manual if you receive a low battery alert it recommends you drive the car for 30 minutes at outside temperature of 32° and above or for an hour if below 32°.
 
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