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When you experienced a 12v problem, was your car charging overnight?

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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I think 12v battery failure seems to have become the predominant issue with the I-Pace (and it seems many EVs). I have had ot occur three times myself. The last two times occurred in the morning when the car was charging overnight (so park, plug it in, go to sleep, unplug, get in car and the 12v is dead). I want to see if this is a coincidence or if it might be related (JLR don't seem to have a handle on this yet). So can you answer the poll please? Thanks!
 

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We had an issue, but it was early on before the recall, a couple years ago?
 

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Sorry, I can't help here. I don't have any pattern for charging the car. I don't charge it every day, and I don't use it every day. When I had some weird info in the dash, it was more than 1 year ago. I just mentioned this 12v issue to the dealer, and they immediately updated some modules. Since then, no issue at all, and I still have the original 12v battery, after 3 years 1/2. I don't know what to answer here , in this poll.
 

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Another interesting poll would also have been 12 volt issues versus model year
I had 12 volt battery problems within the first few months after delivery. They updated some modules and the issue has never resurfaced (touch wood).
 

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2020 I-Pase HSE in Fuji White
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I read of an owner who put a volt meter into the 12v socket to monitor volts on the 12v battery. I wonder if this would help detect a failing battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looking like there is not obvious common issues... My batteries just got replaced and they are still seeing issues. Now looking at more modules deep in the car that require them to remove the passenger dash.
 

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i had the brake pedal feel reduced warning flash. Took it in and they said it was the 12 V battery. This was about 18 months in I think. MY2020.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Another interesting poll would also have been 12 volt issues versus model year
I had 12 volt battery problems within the first few months after delivery. They updated some modules and the issue has never resurfaced (touch wood).
That might have been a good idea, particularly if the poll were long living. We’d get some stats on how long the battery seems to last (although JLR can easily mine their data for such trends). Many of us are having issues that are not battery failures but failures in the battery management.
 

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I had the brake pedal feel reduced warning at about 29500 miles on 2/17/2022. Was able to drive to a dealer and had the smaller 12v battery replaced the next day. Mine is an early build (6/2018) 2019 FE and had it since 3/2020. Was told 12v battery/batteries was/were replaced before it was delivered to me with 4000 miles. That means the smaller 12v lasted for at least 24 months and 25000 miles. Drive regularly without much fast charging. Hope this may help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I had the brake pedal feel reduced warning at about 29500 miles on 2/17/2022. Was able to drive to a dealer and had the smaller 12v battery replaced the next day. Mine is an early build (6/2018) 2019 FE and had it since 3/2020. Was told 12v battery/batteries was/were replaced before it was delivered to me with 4000 miles. That means the smaller 12v lasted for at least 24 months and 25000 miles. Drive regularly without much fast charging. Hope this may help.
Thanks. Where do you live? It took 2-3 weeks for the smaller battery to get shipped from the UK to Canada. Looking bak at my messages to the dealer, I have had the car in the shop 4 times for 12v batter related issues totalling over 2 months in the shop.
 

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Thanks. Where do you live? It took 2-3 weeks for the smaller battery to get shipped from the UK to Canada. Looking bak at my messages to the dealer, I have had the car in the shop 4 times for 12v batter related issues totalling over 2 months in the shop.
SC. I was prepared for without the car for an extended period of time but the dealer must have the battery in stock (F-pace uses the same battery). Show the dealer what I have learned from this forum helped.
 

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I hope I am not cursing anything by posting this here.
No 12V issues yet (33k miles 2019 MY) - I have noticed though over the last year after fast charging at local EVGO charger, I often get a warning for low battery from WattCat (Today it said 11.8V), yet now 6 hours later, and Car hasnt moved, Aux battery voltage is 13.5V.
 

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No 12V problems for more than two years, but I have now had the larger12V battery lose charge twice over the past 5 days. On both occasions the car was charging overnight and had reached 100% charge.

After the first time, the car was taken to the dealer on a flat bed. They said "we've ordered that part that charges the 12V battery and we did a temporary repair for you to use the vehicle with no worries (We just manipulated communication between modules and 12V battery)". What ever that means!

The second time was this morning. I was able to jump start the 12V system (using a computer UPS battery I had available). Car started and drove fine afterwards. I'm nervous about the next 100% traction battery charge though!
 

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Is't part of the problem the auxillary battery in the old models?

What is weird is the absence of any voltmeter for the 12v battery in the Infotainment or driver screens? I am pretty used to having a voltmeter on my cars either a dial or on the screen which would really help to identify pending problems on the iPace.
 

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19 I-pace HSE Polaris/Fuji white with most options and a lot of accessories
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Either battery can fail to be charged and cause issues. The programming needs to be up-to-date, the DC-DC converter, PSDB and BSM/GWM modules must not have hardware issues. Earlier cars that did not get software updated by dealers will see the problems more than those that got updated. These are not SOTA updates so the cars would have to have been in for service at some point at a dealer that made sure software was up-to-date.

Failing to start is a large battery issue.
Nasty messages about reduced braking, etc., is that small aux battery issue.

Of course batteries fail eventually. It is just a matter of where yours is on the failure probability curve. You luck out with a long lifespan one or not.

It is wishful thinking that with all the sophisticated monitoring the car has it would speak up and tell the driver of a battery issue coming before it happens but they didn't even get that right for the fob batteries. I let one of those run down first to the point the fob would not be recognized in the car then to the point of not unlocking the doors with door handle or fob button push. No message ever in spite of what the owner's manual says.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
No 12V problems for more than two years, but I have now had the larger12V battery lose charge twice over the past 5 days. On both occasions the car was charging overnight and had reached 100% charge.

After the first time, the car was taken to the dealer on a flat bed. They said "we've ordered that part that charges the 12V battery and we did a temporary repair for you to use the vehicle with no worries (We just manipulated communication between modules and 12V battery)". What ever that means!

The second time was this morning. I was able to jump start the 12V system (using a computer UPS battery I had available). Car started and drove fine afterwards. I'm nervous about the next 100% traction battery charge though!
They probably reloaded the software on the module that controls the 12v battery charging. They did that the first time for me, then when it happened a second time a few months later, they replaced the module (but not the batteries themselves) but it happened again 3 weeks later so they replaced the batteries and the module a second time because it continued to throw errors. Looks to me to be a shaky setup.
I have the 12v cables Ayepace suggested ready to be installed once I get the car back from yet another software/computer issue (TCU, also second time) Monday. I’ll always have a 12v booster battery with me from now on. Sorry state of affairs to have to drag an emergency battery with you on a $100k car but it is what it is.
 

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Hi,

I think 12v battery failure seems to have become the predominant issue with the I-Pace (and it seems many EVs). I have had ot occur three times myself. The last two times occurred in the morning when the car was charging overnight (so park, plug it in, go to sleep, unplug, get in car and the 12v is dead). I want to see if this is a coincidence or if it might be related (JLR don't seem to have a handle on this yet). So can you answer the poll please? Thanks!
rcomeau,

Answered your poll. Car was NOT charging overnight, nor was it showing maximum mileage (our max shows 265 miles). Also, we have never fast-charged our car. In fact, we use standard, household electricity, as needed. Try to recharge when the level drops near or below 100 miles, and rarely leave it on charge until it hits 265, although both the dealership and Corporate have said the I-Pace, absolutely, cannot, be overcharged.
 

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Hi,

I think 12v battery failure seems to have become the predominant issue with the I-Pace (and it seems many EVs). I have had ot occur three times myself. The last two times occurred in the morning when the car was charging overnight (so park, plug it in, go to sleep, unplug, get in car and the 12v is dead). I want to see if this is a coincidence or if it might be related (JLR don't seem to have a handle on this yet). So can you answer the poll please? Thanks!
As I posted separately, but I'll repeat here to keep the data on one thread.
Charged to 100% overnight. GoM read 267miles. Drove 2 8 mile trips following morning, threw 12v related faults on starting to return home after 2nd of these trips.
 

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As I posted separately, but I'll repeat here to keep the data on one thread.
Charged to 100% overnight. GoM read 267miles. Drove 2 8 mile trips following morning, threw 12v related faults on starting to return home after 2nd of these trips.

Read Ayepace's post above: charging the car has nothing to do with the aux batteries. You can still have a dead car with a full "main battery." It is like having a dead car with a full gas tank. The car's ability to charge and recharge has nothing to do with the 12v 'issue' people are complaining about, which appears to be simply just the aux battery dying.
 

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Read Ayepace's post above: charging the car has nothing to do with the aux batteries. You can still have a dead car with a full "main battery." It is like having a dead car with a full gas tank. The car's ability to charge and recharge has nothing to do with the 12v 'issue' people are complaining about, which appears to be simply just the aux battery dying.
Agreed. I reported my case here to add one more example.

However, in my case the dealership last week notified me that my problem was the dreaded "wiring harness" issue. "Patiently" waiting for a new harness at this point.
 
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