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Put this in your toolbox for emergency tow purposes. Not found in the manual.
When my car was towed on a dark rainy night 1/5/19 it had lost power (more on why later) and would not run or shift out of park. A jumper box connected under the hood got it to shift to neutral to be loaded onto the flatbed properly, but upon unloading the hood would not respond to the remote so could not jump battery again thus removing from the tow bed had some very ugly hopping. Here is what Leif of Cole European in Walnut Creek, CA shared a few days later.

Open the hood / bonnet by first unscrewing the round 2 inch wide knob just above the passenger kick panel. That will reveal a loop pull for a cable to manually open the hood.

With the hood open, remove the battery cover panel (2 screws) and look n the middle of that area near the front (of the car) for a cable with a plastic lever attached. Move the plastic lever up 90 degrees and (didn't do this personally) that will engage the transmission into neutral.

The owners manual referred to some mysterious process, for trained personnel only, for the above. Leif also stated that if the tow dude had left the jumper box on longer, the car could've recovered enough power to start and drive a very short distance. Better than blocking a business driveway for an hour after coasting off a boulevard to an unpushable stop.

My car has 1,600 fun miles in a month. On 1/5/19 It displayed a battery charging fault while I was driving. A few miles later at a parking garage at my dinner destination, it would not charge further with 138 miles remaining. Upon hooking up the level 2 charger, the dash would alternatively display 'initializing' and 'charging' back and forth. No big deal, I will just use my remaining 138 miles to finish the evening and drive it Monday to service, right? Nope. A few miles later, A series of failure and limited power warnings said my.car was not with that plan. So far, service will replace 1 of the 3 batteries (not the propulsion battery) and see if that is all the charging system needs. More info on that next week. BTW, the salesmen (including Boris A.) at Cole were put through a training program and were very knowledgeable in showing the car. Leif in service is working with advice from corporate JLR folks on my car. Steve
 

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I tried to through this , in the comfort of my driveway, before having to have to use it for real (or not).
I have localized the knob, with a hood icon on it, tried to turn it clockwise, counter clockwise, it does not seems to make any difference. It just turn, and turn, and turn.
What's missing ? How can I reveal the pull ?

4260
 

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I tried to through this , in the comfort of my driveway, before having to have to use it for real (or not).
I have localized the knob, with a hood icon on it, tried to turn it clockwise, counter clockwise, it does not seems to make any difference. It just turn, and turn, and turn.
What's missing ? How can I reveal the pull ?

View attachment 4260
The frunk release knob screws onto a lengthy bolt. I am guessing maybe 10 rotations. You may have been expecting a quick release.
 

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I’m not sure where to post this. My incident is a spiraling story. Presently I‘be been waiting for the dealer to call me back about my non-moveable car. I’ve searched the forum for help on towing and there’s not much on here. What is here is scattered out. But with a search and a couple hours I think I’ve found most everything that pertains. The parking release hidden from the owner sucks. So thank you ipaceforum and members. But my emergency brakes won’t release. Guess I’ll start another post under that. Anyway, I believe I don’t have any 12 volt auxiliary batter power. Not enough anyway to open doors or windows and the charging port. So even though I’m next to a charger level1, I can’t get it to charge.
 

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19 I-pace HSE Polaris/Fuji white with most options and a lot of accessories
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Properly installed hood/bonnet release knob. Unscrew this (it takes some patience due to lack of clearance between knob and carpet. The cable loop should be looped around the stud that the knob was on. This keeps it from going somewhere else behind the carpet and padding. You just have to loop your finger through it and give a light pull. The hood/bonnet should pop open. Consider practicing before it becomes a necessity.
4555


The transmission park release is a little lever located as shown. It has a "book" symbol on it.
4556
4557
 

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Call me old fashioned. But I still like having the car manual in the glove box. Nice to have a backup! Too many things are becoming dependent upon our phone.
 

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Might add something about emergency brake lock out when 12v aux battery is dead. I had to run a trickle charge to it, jumping didn’t work.
This must be my issue as releasing the cable does nothing — the beast won’t budge. Now to find the 12v to trickle charge….
 

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The cable releases the park lock at the front but parking brake requires 12v to retract on the rear. A power pack for jump starting ICE, or other 12v source, will work long enough to release the PB with the switch.
 

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I started trickle charging the 12v on the left side (as you’re facing the frunk), but no joy. Could it be the one on the right I need to charge/jump?

Also, the traction battery is fully charged, allowing me to turn-on the car, but as soon as I step on the brake pedal, it shuts down (as if I turned it off and opened the door). I tried pulling the parking brake release while it was “on”, but again no joy.
 

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How many amps trickling? You may have to leave it a long time at 4 amps if the battery will charge at all.

Yes, the one on passenger side (US cars) is the starter battery. It needs to have sufficient charge.

One does need to apply foot to brake pedal while releasing the PB. If car shuts down immediately, it won't release.
 

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Crap, I should have taken a photo of the snatch & grab out of my garage. The guy with the flatbed wouldn’t try to pull it out with skates.
 

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The cable releases the park lock at the front but parking brake requires 12v to retract on the rear. A power pack for jump starting ICE, or other 12v source, will work long enough to release the PB with the switch.
Started reviewing this for my expected tow tomorrow as my car got bricked by a bad software update. When you say you need a working 12v battery to release the rear wheels, do you mean a working 12v battery and a car computer capable of using said 12v to be operational enough to release the brake? My concern is that my car won't start, not because of a 12v issue, but the software won't let the car complete the boot cycle, so will I be able to get the rear wheels to release, or am I going to have to drag the car onto a flat bed kicking and screaming?
 

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I confirmed this in the comfort of my garage.

Power up without foot on brake (which is as good as you can do), put foot on brake and pull out on the parking brake switch. You will hear the EPB operate if you have a door or window open.
Push the EPB switch to reapply the parking brake and you'll hear it operate again.

If someone has a bad 12V battery, attach a 12V jumper box or other 12V source if necessary to the starter battery to get 12V to the system.

(Oh, yeah. Take your foot off the brake before the tow truck driver starts to pull it on the truck. :) )
 

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I confirmed this in the comfort of my garage.

Power up without foot on brake (which is as good as you can do), put foot on brake and pull out on the parking brake switch. You will hear the EPB operate if you have a door or window open.
Push the EPB switch to reapply the parking brake and you'll hear it operate again.

If someone has a bad 12V battery, attach a 12V jumper box or other 12V source if necessary to the starter battery to get 12V to the system.

(Oh, yeah. Take your foot off the brake before the tow truck driver starts to pull it on the truck. :) )
Right on (as usual). I'd like to send you a bottle of whisky or whatever you might enjoy for your constant helpful tips! I really appreciate it.
 
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