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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
This is an intriguing thread indeed!
Could somebody explain (with more pictures, for instance) where these sensor links can be found? I looked (casually, I admit), did not spot anything like them...
On the second photo up top, black shiny part right in the middle.
Here's the diagram too:
5721


(Assuming you have air suspension)
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Hey, people get fast food in these cars. May as well go cheap! Also, no 3d printer here.
Sure fast food also imposes safety risk, but riding on hand-fabricated PVC pipe component in critical spot - I don't know if I would do that even having no other choice (no offense).
Not trying to upsell, but it took me a full day and pile of prototypes to come up with quality solution. That's with the technology which provides inherent ~1/50 mm accuracy and pretty free modelling.
And like I said, rising it is as easy as lowering, I would only go 1/2 increment at most (65 / 75 mm). May be a good test case for adjustable version BTW.
 

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Sure fast food also imposes safety risk, but riding on hand-fabricated PVC pipe component in critical spot - I don't know if I would do that even having no other choice (no offense).
Not trying to upsell, but it took me a full day and pile of prototypes to come up with quality solution. That's with the technology which provides inherent ~1/50 mm accuracy and pretty free modelling.
And like I said, rising it is as easy as lowering, I would only go 1/2 increment at most (65 / 75 mm). May be a good test case for adjustable version BTW.
The Ram pickup I used to have used air suspension, and a lot of people modified it to keep it lifted. Some people went PVC without issue. Some likely went 3d printed. Several people used a variety of metal fittings to create adjustable links, sold by companies. I thought about but never modded the Ram.

People here are welcome to do as they please. Your design is good looking, and I'm certain people here can afford them. I'm not actually going to mod the height, as I'm quite pleased with how the car drives stock.

I'm not sure how camber changes as the Jag lifts and drops. Worth paying attention to. If you just take the links, or one link, off, it'll be interesting to see how the suspension responds. At a low height, I'd also be worried about bottoming out the suspension on a sharp bump.
 

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I was trying to PM you, DCDrive. I can't as a new user for some reason. I would like to arrange getting a set as well if you're up for it. I made a set similar but fairly crude with materials from Lowe's, sort of a prototype, but your 3D printed parts are much more appropriate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Quick Q&A and installation pics:

5719

  • The links are printed out of PETG polymer, which is similar to plastic bottles. It's fairly tear-proof, low friction, little more flexy than other materials (ABS, PLA), low degradation rate; glass transition temperature is 172 F which should be good for non-heated exterior applications with big margin.

  • Clip on/off force is about 3-4 lb, no chance of disconnecting by itself even in harsh environmental conditions (rain / snow / rocks).

  • Sensor links locations (orange ones shown) - front right, rear right and way to access:
    5762
    5763

    Front ones can be accessed w/o wheel removal, although the car needs to be lifted (using jack or suspension settings), and it's extremely important to use jack stand to prevent unexpected drop while working.

  • The front / rear sensors are mounted in opposite directions, thus the links are of different sizes. Long ones go to front side, short ones to rear.

  • No tools needed to remove factory links, but they are a rubber loop over mushroom-shaped pin. Need to be pulled quite hard, wiggled around at a same time:
    5760


  • The sensor arm is plastic, so to avoid possible damage suggest pulling the link from the other side first, then carefully from the sensor arm. Also, suggest starting from front ones as they are easily accessible.
  • If you like the ride and are going to keep the car lowered permanently, may be worth redoing alignment.
  • Suggest trimming vertical flaps underneath front bumper to improve clearance and avoid touching bumps after lowering. The main car body will have a ground clearance of ~5.5", while untrimmed flaps go down to ~4.25".
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
On 22s it's even better !
So yes, whole different car handling-wise. But you say no change in bump absorption ? Do you have Active Dynamic ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Quick update upon factory link removal:
  • pull the link from the suspension-mounted pin first which is opposite from sensor; should be easier as metal pins have less aggressive head, and lower risk of overstressing plastic sensor arm;
  • stretch the link away from the sensor, grab like this (metal mount is showed, but will be a sensor arm in real case):
    5870


  • with the thumb pushing against pin head, and index finger on the other side, pull the link back holding it with remaining fingers;
  • when you feel it stretched a bit, carefully bend (not pull) it toward yourself; this is what should happen:
    5871


  • wiggle around while pulling gently.
Hope this helps
 

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dcdrive, I am still following this mod with interest.

Would a light spray of penetrating fluid or a similar product help to release the OEM link, with less friction to grip on the "pins"?

I would be very worried about accidentally snapping the sensor arm.

Cheers, Steve
 

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On 22s it's even better !
So yes, whole different car handling-wise. But you say no change in bump absorption ? Do you have Active Dynamic ?
I can’t really tell if there is greater bump absorption and yes I have active dynamics. I think it’s a win win
 

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dcdrive, I am still following this mod with interest.

Would a light spray of penetrating fluid or a similar product help to release the OEM link, with less friction to grip on the "pins"?

I would be very worried about accidentally snapping the sensor arm.

Cheers, Steve
I used soapy water solution. I did end up breaking one of the original links unfortunately by being too aggressive with twisting it as I was trying yo remove it. I’m hoping they sell that link separately as all I can find online is the whole $150 control sensor assembly with the link 😳
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
dcdrive, I am still following this mod with interest.

Would a light spray of penetrating fluid or a similar product help to release the OEM link, with less friction to grip on the "pins"?

I would be very worried about accidentally snapping the sensor arm.

Cheers, Steve
Sure that would help, although I did it few times all dry.
Interestingly, I was going to say that I'm making an accent, but it's not that easy to break actually. Then I saw the post by JDH...
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I used soapy water solution. I did end up breaking one of the original links unfortunately by being too aggressive with twisting it as I was trying yo remove it. I’m hoping they sell that link separately as all I can find online is the whole $150 control sensor assembly with the link 😳
Sorry to hear, but actually that's right, it's sensor bundle only.
PM me if you really need it. Dependent on the situation, we may have couple options.
 

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I used soapy water solution. I did end up breaking one of the original links unfortunately by being too aggressive with twisting it as I was trying yo remove it. I’m hoping they sell that link separately as all I can find online is the whole $150 control sensor assembly with the link 😳
I keep a spray bottle filled with a mixture of water and Dawn for these purposes (e.g., exhaust hangers).

Now that I think of it, I wonder if exhaust hanger pliers would work in this situation:

5873
 
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I did this about 6 months ago using some custom links I had made by Ghostlinks. They make lowering links for Range Rovers and were local to me. The ones I have are fully adjustable, so I installed them to a height I loved to look at (75mm front / 50mm rear). It was probably to low as I felt a loss in ride quality, but believe could be dialed in to an ideal range. I went back to stock and had planned to do that later and never got around to it. I will use these spec now on my own and see how it turns out, so BIG THANKS for posting this!

One question though, when I had the lowering links installed it basically eliminated the 'access height' setting because when selected the car would drop to low, the computer would sense that and move it back to standard height. Did you have anything like that happen?

Will adjust my links to these settings and report back. In the photo the stock link is in the middle.
 

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I did this about 6 months ago using some custom links I had made by Ghostlinks. They make lowering links for Range Rovers and were local to me. The ones I have are fully adjustable, so I installed them to a height I loved to look at (75mm front / 50mm rear). It was probably to low as I felt a loss in ride quality, but believe could be dialed in to an ideal range. I went back to stock and had planned to do that later and never got around to it. I will use these spec now on my own and see how it turns out, so BIG THANKS for posting this!

One question though, when I had the lowering links installed it basically eliminated the 'access height' setting because when selected the car would drop to low, the computer would sense that and move it back to standard height. Did you have anything like that happen?

Will adjust my links to these settings and report back.
Yes access height is no longer available. It does think the car is caught on something too low
 

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I used soapy water solution. I did end up breaking one of the original links unfortunately by being too aggressive with twisting it as I was trying yo remove it. I’m hoping they sell that link separately as all I can find online is the whole $150 control sensor assembly with the link 😳
You could get the aftermarket adjustable ones for a Range Rover if you need something stock size in a pinch.
 
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