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Did a test loop while visiting my daughter in college. Drive time temps were 3°C to 12°C. It was 155 miles each way. This was prompted by an article saying the I-Pace with one skinny guy in it, on 20" tires, at 75mph on level ground at 8°C, could go a maximum of 169 miles. He based it on a 54 miles test with a 'very experienced' EV driver.

Departure: Car was preconditioned and 100%, it was 3°C at departure. Melted ice off while plugged in. Slightly under 75 mph average, but ACC was set at 75mph and I passed as necessary to keep up the speed and used HOV and tollroads as required by traffic. Arrived with 31% indicated SoC, after just a bit over 1hr (early lunch and shopping) at a "50kW" CCS by EVConnect. PITA, but man, does that I-Pace draw a crowd in a hurry! :D This would net 224 miles, however there are winds and 800' of lost elevation, and the car is preconditioned fully.

Return: Left with 98% and no pre-conditioning. Melted ice with windshield heater. Averaged 77 mph. Average temp was colder. It never hit 50°F, mostly 38-43°F. Left while still dark. Arrived with only 15% left. 182 miles uncorrected range assuming normal 98% departure. Why not correct it? This is a more common situation when not at home. You charged the night before, drove to the hotel, and just hopped in the car when you were ready to leave, not on a scheduled departure. In my case, we watched a play with my daughter and had dinner, and topped it off to 100% at the campus.

Some of this difference is because I'm used to stretching range on California freeways, dating back to my motorcycle days in the 70's. And I have 6 years of experience making Chevrolet Volts go further than the EPA claims on the freeway without wasting my time or arriving late at the customer site. A customer we have had for 25 years, happens to be 58.4 miles round trip. Volts have 49 mile EPA Highway rating. I make it every time with room to spare, and have gone about 68 miles using the charge left over from one of these trips. Either I always get a Wednesday Car (best quality), or I have very trained foot.

Cliff Notes: Mild winter 310 mile round trip shows 201 miles of range at 75 mph.
 
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I'm not sure I understand why cruise control uses more power (unless you're driving in mountains). Surely maintaining an absolutely steady speed is better? Please educate me - I don't get my I Pace until March.
The trick is to drive like there is an egg between your foot and the pedals. The cruise control can sometimes accelerate quicker than required, or brake more aggressively than needed. It is true for ICE cars/trucks too. A human can do a better job, because you can see further ahead than a car can.

Try it with your gas car in a traffic situation and compare.

When you are the only car on the road, and road is flat, there is nothing to gain. But for many of us, those days are long gone. I was driving in the dark at 6 am in Goleta CA (where?) and there was traffic. There was never a point where I was the only person on the road. People drive in fast lane at under the speed limit while texting, turn signal use is a forgotten skill, and lane control for many people is the Braille method. Start steering every time you feel bumps.
 
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So my results in some longer driving at temperatures of around 40 F has been pretty good. I have been driving in eco and comfort, but generally NOT being at all very careful to maximize range, but not racing either. Speeds have been anywhere from 55 to 70 mixes, mostly highways, small elevation changes, heat set to 72-74 and seat heat with two passengers (smart climate).

I have pretty consistently gotten what would have been a real world range of 200-210 miles in these conditions. Driving more carefully I may have stretched it another 10-20 miles, and driving aggressively I would have definitely dropped it down to 170 or so. All of this has always been with the car plugged in and allowed to keep battery at optimal starting temperature and pre-conditioning, with car either inside a conditioned garage OR outside in cold temperature. Having it plugged in seems to make the two starting points pretty much the same.

P.S. The only obvious thing I had missed before I got my car (yes I am stupid) is that the conditioned seats are not resistive heater element heating but the actual heating air flow. I find that a little strange as sometimes I feel the air "tickle" me and I wonder how much less efficient it is than the heating elements I am used to.

Anyone know whether Jaguar uses heat pump or just resistive elements for the heater?
 

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I live in Phoenix. Where, my winter driving is mostly at 45-65 degrees (F). I'm getting 251 range regularly. It's your heat/seat heat that are killing your ranges. Wait a few months, and you'll have something new to love about your cars! (And, I'll be seeing how bad the A/C has to work against that glass roof in 115 degrees.)
 

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I live in Phoenix. Where, my winter driving is mostly at 45-65 degrees (F). I'm getting 251 range regularly. It's your heat/seat heat that are killing your ranges. Wait a few months, and you'll have something new to love about your cars! (And, I'll be seeing how bad the A/C has to work against that glass roof in 115 degrees.)
Once preconditioned turning off climate and seat heat gains me around 15 to 20 miles additional so close to your numbers. But I’m way too old to freeze for 20 miles.
 

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Oh, I'm totally with you. And, for what it's worth, the passenger seat heat does really well at keeping a pizza warm on the way home!!!
 

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So my results in some longer driving at temperatures of around 40 F has been pretty good. I have been driving in eco and comfort, but generally NOT being at all very careful to maximize range, but not racing either. Speeds have been anywhere from 55 to 70 mixes, mostly highways, small elevation changes, heat set to 72-74 and seat heat with two passengers (smart climate).

I have pretty consistently gotten what would have been a real world range of 200-210 miles in these conditions. Driving more carefully I may have stretched it another 10-20 miles, and driving aggressively I would have definitely dropped it down to 170 or so. All of this has always been with the car plugged in and allowed to keep battery at optimal starting temperature and pre-conditioning, with car either inside a conditioned garage OR outside in cold temperature. Having it plugged in seems to make the two starting points pretty much the same.

P.S. The only obvious thing I had missed before I got my car (yes I am stupid) is that the conditioned seats are not resistive heater element heating but the actual heating air flow. I find that a little strange as sometimes I feel the air "tickle" me and I wonder how much less efficient it is than the heating elements I am used to.

Anyone know whether Jaguar uses heat pump or just resistive elements for the heater?
Since the Jaguar is a heatpump car with AC seats, the cheapest way to heat the seats would be with heated air. I don't know for sure, but it doesn't feel like our heated seats with other cars.
 
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