[mariopaol]

Hi Forum,
do you know how to set the maximum state-of-charge of the battery ?

I have a Tesla since several years and it is a fundamental tool to avoid ageing of the battery (i.e., limit the max SOC to values below 100%).

Thanks !

Mario

 

[cvdakker]

Hi Forum,
do you know how to set the maximum state-of-charge of the battery ?

I have a Tesla since several years and it is a fundamental tool to avoid ageing of the battery (i.e., limit the max SOC to values below 100%).

Thanks !

Mario

No need for the I-Pace. Jaguar already maximised it. In fact, you cannot charge the battery for the full (technical) 100%.
This is what they told me when the car was delivered.

 

[epirali]

This is true of most cars, they will now allow the top and bottom range to be used in order to maximize battery. Tesla provides a "range" option that actually taxes the battery and uses more of the buffer SOC range, that is why it warns you.

It is an interesting option, but not something that is easy to explain to non technical users, why there is even an "option" how much charge you have.

BTW this buffer use is common in almost all devices that use lithium ion technology.

 

[mariopaol]

Thanks for the feedbacks.

As you may know, battery ageing is mainly associated to two phenomena: capacity fading and increasing equivalent series resistance.
Now, these two macroscopic phenomena can modelled by two processes.

Calendar ageing: the battery is ageing with time as a function of its temperature even if it is not cycled. This process can be studied using Arrhenius-type equations.

Cycling ageing: the battery is ageing as a function of the type of cycles it is subjected.

As far as the battery life is concerned, whatever is the electrochemistry (NMC/NCA cathodes and Graphics/Graphite-Si anodes), there is always a minimisation of the cycling ageing if you use the battery within SoC that are well within 0 and 100%. So, in this respect it would been useful to have a max SoC setting.

 

[WattAJag]

So, what is the consensus on "When to charge"? I have a usual driving range of 240-250 at 100% (as reported by MyEV). So, if I'm driving 20-40 miles a day "usually", so ...

1. Do I need to risk occasional inconvenience and shoot for getting it down around 20-40 miles range before charging to maximize battery longevity?

2. Or, am I okay topping it off whenever it gets down around 100 miles?

3. Or, should I just plug it in most nights, and it will be fine?

My last car was a Fisker Karma where the battery only went 50 miles (like a Volt). So, it wasn't a tough choice - you almost always plugged it in. But, now I'm trying to learn what the right balance is.

 

[epirali]

The basic rules are that for LiIon technology the total cycles is what counts, generally 5 20% charges is same as one 100%. Exceptions are IF you leave the battery at max charge or max empty. The battery is not charged to 100% and not drained to 0. So I'd say as long as you are driving daily don't worry about it. If you plan to store for a few weeks try to leave it close to 50% as ideal storage.

So in a way doing shallow charges is not a bad idea. Does the I Pace have a "hill descent" mode or something that allows leaving some room in the battery for max regen?

 

[Dantrium]

The basic rules are that for LiIon technology the total cycles is what counts, generally 5 20% charges is same as one 100%. Exceptions are IF you leave the battery at max charge or max empty. The battery is not charged to 100% and not drained to 0. So I'd say as long as you are driving daily don't worry about it. If you plan to store for a few weeks try to leave it close to 50% as ideal storage.

So in a way doing shallow charges is not a bad idea. Does the I Pace have a "hill descent" mode or something that allows leaving some room in the battery for max regen?

I am unaware of a hill descent mode - I don't see it on any of the settings.Does plugging it in every night, even if only running it down to 70-80% shorten the life of the battery or effect the 'memory' of the battery, reducing usability of the full 90 kWh (~84kWh)?

 

[Pseudonym]

Battery is warranted and there is no chance I will own the car longer than 3 years so I plan on fully charging whenever I can.

 

[WattAJag]

I am unaware of a hill descent mode - I don't see it on any of the settings.Does plugging it in every night, even if only running it down to 70-80% shorten the life of the battery or effect the 'memory' of the battery, reducing usability of the full 90 kWh (~84kWh)?

There doesn't seem to be anything other than a manual interruption of charging (which at least you can do from your phone) to stop it from going to 100%. I live on top of a 2 to 4 mile downhill run (depending on which way I go). So, I would really love to halt charging at 85 or 90% ... However, if Jag is limiting us already, then maybe the ReGen is still working starting off downhill at 100%? I'll have to test it.

But, thanks for your feedback on charging. So, a fairly safe answer for me is - generally go ahead & charge it anytime it gets below 50-70%.

Just confirming:

If one goes months without ever getting down around 10-20% that is not bad for it?

 

[McRat]

You can charge a Li battery to it's rated max voltage and drain it to it's min rated voltage with no accelerated decay if you don't allow it to get too hot.

What you DON'T want to do is store it either end of the design window for long periods.

To me, it seemed the i-Pace had full regen power at "100%" charge today, which means there is a sizable top buffer. But I've only had the car 20 hours and charged it twice.

 

[phil]

There doesn't seem to be anything other than a manual interruption of charging (which at least you can do from your phone) to stop it from going to 100%. I live on top of a 2 to 4 mile downhill run (depending on which way I go). So, I would really love to halt charging at 85 or 90% ... However, if Jag is limiting us already, then maybe the ReGen is still working starting off downhill at 100%? I'll have to test it.

But, thanks for your feedback on charging. So, a fairly safe answer for me is - generally go ahead & charge it anytime it gets below 50-70%.

Just confirming:

If one goes months without ever getting down around 10-20% that is not bad for it?

I've heard people say it's good to discharge close to zero every now and again, to balance the cells or some such. I don't know whether there's anything to it.

 

[epirali]

Just confirming:

If one goes months without ever getting down around 10-20% that is not bad for it?

Nope, in fact if anything it is slightly better for it. Best use for LiIon is shallow cycles, most ideally 50-80%.

 

[McRat]

Well, I should be cautious with my posting. I'm not used to the EV gauges on the i-Pace yet.
While it would regen at 100% charge state, it certainly was not max regen. Which means the window on top is not large.

 

[sciencegeek]

From what I've seen in various Nyland and other videos when you can see the dashboard display icon with the recharge amount, the total amount of recharging actually doesn't add up to too much. In other words, if it doesn't regen during the first 10 miles of a fully charged battery it's not much of a 'loss'.

 

[McRat]

From what I've seen in various Nyland and other videos when you can see the dashboard display icon with the recharge amount, the total amount of recharging actually doesn't add up to too much. In other words, if it doesn't regen during the first 10 miles of a fully charged battery it's not much of a 'loss'.

No, it doesn't add up to a lot on EVs except in traffic. Aero and rolling resistance cannot be recovered, only kinetic energy.
What I'm used to seeing on my dash is a kW meter. +120kW for acceleration, and -60kW for regeneration. All I can see so far on the Jag is a radial bar graph, which is not enough info to do excellent hypermiling. Keeping both numbers low reduces resistive losses since amps heat up circuits, and heat increases resistance even more. So 10 seconds at 60kW uses more battery than 30kW for 20 seconds, in both regen and acceleration. So educating your foot to keep the peaks low in both directions helps. HOWEVER, there are situations where a car will use friction brakes, these must be avoided for peak range.

 

[Dantrium]

If you run through the options on the instrument panel you will find the meter that gives you instantaneous energy consumption. I think it is listed as kWh/100 mike, but I cannot remember for sure. I’ll look the next time I drive

 

[epirali]

If you run through the options on the instrument panel you will find the meter that gives you instantaneous energy consumption. I think it is listed as kWh/100 mike, but I cannot remember for sure. I’ll look the next time I drive

Good tip. I am one of the 1/2 of the population that much prefers miles/KWHr rather than the kWh/mile....its a 6 of this, 1/2 of the other case but I wish they would standardize or give option. Only I-Pace and Tesla do the kWh/mile that I have seen.

 

[phil]

I am one of the 1/2 of the population that much prefers miles/KWHr rather than the kWh/mile....its a 6 of this, 1/2 of the other case but I wish they would standardize or give option. Only I-Pace and Tesla do the kWh/mile that I have seen.

Exactly. Every American understands mpg, and for electric cars we should obviously use the analogous mpK. Let the Europeans, Asians, etc. do whatever the heck they want.

 

[Dantrium]

If you run through the options on the instrument panel you will find the meter that gives you instantaneous energy consumption. I think it is listed as kWh/100 mike, but I cannot remember for sure. I’ll look the next time I drive

Here’s what it looks like on the instrument cluster

 

[epirali]

Exactly. Every American understands mpg, and for electric cars we should obviously use the analogous mpK. Let the Europeans, Asians, etc. do whatever the heck they want.

Actually Tesla, an American company, is the only other one. Chevy and BMW and Nissan all use miles/KWHr