[Ayepace]

T4K6642: Sorry. I mistyped. It is T4K4462. I fixed it in the post. I have also seen references to dealerships not being willing to sell this for a DIY repair. The workshop manual indicates there is a procedure to follow in Pathfinder/TOPIx Cloud after TCU battery replacement. There's probably going to be fault codes to clear.

T4K11604 is a flooded battery and cannot be shipped. You can readily find 99R/T4 batteries at auto part stores. It fails too especially if the car has not been updated to the proper software level for the 12V charging. It will fail eventually as all batteries do.

As stated originally, yes you can buy a JDE32902 from a dealer. It is the most expensive option. Also, if you're hundreds of miles away from a dealer (e.g. western Kansas) at the time of failure you're going to want to install an alternative to get you going. It would be cheaper than a tow to a dealer. rcomeau's dealer apparently can't find one in Canada at the present time.

 

[Enderle]

I just found this on eBay and it says it is a replacement for the JDE32902: It is also from Latvia but only around $100 + shipping (the 2 day shipping is BS as it won't arrive until the 22nd) I'll try to remember to post if it works:
Exide Starter Battery Start-Stop Auxiliary EK151 2 business day delivery to USA-

 

[Ayepace]

Yes, that is the battery used as a replacement by Land Rover and Jaguar owners who have dealt with an auxiliary battery for many years. It will work. It is the one I mentioned when I started this thread.

I just received an probable alternative that is much less costly. It only took 2 days to get via Amazon. I'm going to install it even though my aux battery is not a problem at the moment. Watch this space for a posting of the result.

 

[rcomeau]

Yes, that is the battery used as a replacement by Land Rover and Jaguar owners who have dealt with an auxiliary battery for many years. It will work. It is the one I mentioned when I started this thread.

I just received an probable alternative that is much less costly. It only took 2 days to get via Amazon. I'm going to install it even though my aux battery is not a problem at the moment. Watch this space for a posting of the result.

Good luck. Since I am still getting this done under warranty (I am not looking forward to being of warranty given all the trouble I'v had) I have to wait for them to get the battery they think they need from their sources even though I'd happily pay $200 to get the car back earlier. Last update is the battery is off back-order status and they hope to receive it next week. I assume they are shipping via donkey or something.

 

[Ayepace]

Sadly, the post adapters I got are too large. The aux battery has really small posts. Smaller than "standard". I'll have to find a away to make my own adapters. That solution won't be a turnkey solution for our community. It also means that the posts supplied on the Braille batteries won't work.

From the Excide EK151 specs

I measured the inside of the negative clamp and it was 10mm at the top tapering out a little bit from that. The positive would be a little larger. I did not go to the extent of removing that clamp since I already knew the adapter posts I have are not going to work.

Per the workshop manual one must disconnect the whole 12V system while replacing the aux battery.

• Open the frunk
• Wait for the hazard button LED to go off. This will be 10 minutes if doors are locked or 30 minutes if they are not. I suggest having the car unlocked and lower the driver door window at the start (ensures easy access to the inside if anything goes amiss).
• Remove the 3 cover panels in the frunk (or at least move the side ones out of the way). You can do this while waiting.
• Disconnect the DCDC converter ground cable looping to the BMS on the starter battery then insulating it
• Disconnect the BMS from the negative post and insulate it from making contact
• Disconnect and insulate the buss bar to the starter battery positive post
• Somehow get down into the junction box behind the storage pocket and disconnect/insulate the DCDC converter cable there
• Disconnect the aux battery negative cable from its post
• Remove the red cap on the aux battery post
• Loosen aux battery positive clamp nut and removing the positive cable/fuse
• Remove vent pipe
• Remove hold down clamp bolts and hold down clamp
• Then one can actually remove the battery

I suspect however, that most of those steps are skipped and only the work at the aux battery is done.

 

[Enderle]

Holy crap, maybe I'll let the dealer do this, I'm not set up to deal with the main battery. Agree, I'll bet most just pop the terminals and replace the battery.

 

[jsimon7777]

It's a lot of steps, but they're all easy. The hard part is getting the stupid plastic tabs off to get to the battery.

 

[rcomeau]

It's a lot of steps, but they're all easy. The hard part is getting the stupid plastic tabs off to get to the battery.

Yeah, I remember wanting (needing, actually) to boost the car and had a devil of a time getting that red cover off. It was not clear to me where to peel and pull and where to pry.

 

[rcomeau]

Good luck. Since I am still getting this done under warranty (I am not looking forward to being of warranty given all the trouble I'v had) I have to wait for them to get the battery they think they need from their sources even though I'd happily pay $200 to get the car back earlier. Last update is the battery is off back-order status and they hope to receive it next week. I assume they are shipping via donkey or something.

Ok, so the battery arrived today and they installed and are continuing the investigation (still throwing errors). Engineering has requested he performs testing on the connector for the power distribution harness with a picoscope. Hopefully it will not be a new harness that takes a month to get!

 

[Ayepace]

It's a lot of steps, but they're all easy. The hard part is getting the stupid plastic tabs off to get to the battery.

For the aux battery on mine, some techs must have been in there before and broke mine. The cap is just resting in place. There's one little clip on top that seems to be holding it in place. They have to remove that cap to hook up external power supply per some repair procedures.

For the starter battery, it is fairly easy to remove. Slide a small blade screw driver down into a slot right at the post and gently pry the bottom of the cap (using the post as a fulcrum). Not much prying is required as you pull up on that side. Repeat for the other side. Then you can pull out and up on the sides of the cap on the cable end. Or you can do the cable end first then the post end. You can also use the screwdriver in the slots at the cable end. Just don't ground it!! Using a non-conductive tool would be better such as a toothpick or other plastic/wood object that is a suitable substitute.

You should leave it clipped to the DCDC converter ground cable and just rotate it around for access.

 

[Photon2.0eV]

Just don't ground it!!

But if you do, don't panic. The message "OK to Drive Brake Pedal Feel Reduced" will display. Locate the fuse box adjacent to the auxiliary battery and remove the 60 amp fuse, inspect (probably still intact), and replace. Start the car and all should be back together with no message. How do I know, let's just say OJT (On The Job Training) and leave it at that.

 

[Ayepace]

Progress: none. Sadly, I have been unable to locate posts to fit the ground cable and positive post buss bar. I even stopped in at JEGS Performance store in Columbus, OH, and asked. They'd never seen posts so small. I tried to grind down posts made of the typical "lead" post material. It is not easy. Brass posts could not be ground down. Additionally, the existing fuse holder+battery hold down would not fit onto the utility battery that I have. There needs to be a gap between the battery case and the positive post. It can't sit high due to it supporting the power cable going to a junction box behind the frunk pocket. They really built this around using that specific battery. I have a friend who could make posts for me (he has made special tools for me) but it would not be cheap for a one-off situation.

MY21+ owners should rejoice that they wised up on the design.

 

[Trielectric]

The lithium iron battery I suggested in a previuos post, is shorter than the current Aux battery.
SHORAI LFX 14A1-BS12, 14Ah PbEq 12V eq, "A" polarity, Case Type 1, height 106mm. Jag Aux battery height 145mm. The Shorai batteries have many pads to shim the batteries for your desired dimensions.
As for the Aux battery, an aluminum rod cut up to be the post with a bolt hole in it should work for the post adapter. Of course there may be some electrolisis issues there, but not worse than the brass connectors I would think. I am curious why our Aux battery has such big cables.

 

[LinusGBG]

Hi guys! Just wanted to add that the Exide EK151 also sells under the Tudor brand as TK151, which I put in my car when the aux battery failed.
Other than too high voltage charging, do we know why these batteries seem to fail so often in the iPace? The Volvo V40 have the same battery in cars with start/stop function, since at least 10 years. Not many failures there, it seems...

 

[Ayepace]

Many of the early I-pace cars needed software updates to the modules involved in maintaining the proper charge in these. However, JLR policy of not updating software unless there is a documented problem, along with most of them rarely seeing the inside of the service department, meant that most didn't get the updates. This lead to a lit of the failures.

This battery was also the bane of Land Rovers and they stopped using them in those vehicles too. My 16 Range Rover doesn't have one unlike earlier versions. I was surprised that they had put one in my I-pace that is 3 years younger. Fortunately, 2021+ models don't have them.

 

[LinusGBG]

Many of the early I-pace cars needed software updates to the modules involved in maintaining the proper charge in these. However, JLR policy of not updating software unless there is a documented problem, along with most of them rarely seeing the inside of the service department, meant that most didn't get the updates. This lead to a lit of the failures.

This battery was also the bane of Land Rovers and they stopped using them in those vehicles too. My 16 Range Rover doesn't have one unlike earlier versions. I was surprised that they had put one in my I-pace that is 3 years younger. Fortunately, 2021+ models don't have them.

Thanks Ayepace! Is it possible to check BMS, BCM etc firmware versions, somehow?

 

[Ayepace]

It requires an expensive scanning tool that most people don't have to be able to retrieve the versions. I don't know of any cross reference that could be used to determine if the firmware in the car is current or contains relevant fixes.

 

[LinusGBG]

It requires an expensive scanning tool that most people don't have to be able to retrieve the versions. I don't know of any cross reference that could be used to determine if the firmware in the car is current or contains relevant fixes.

Perhaps the charge voltage is tellling? My cat charges at ~14.65 V (according to BM2). In any case, I will demand a check and upgrade at next service. 😎
Thanks for sharing so much knowledge Ayepace!

 

[dernotte]

It requires an expensive scanning tool that most people don't have to be able to retrieve the versions. I don't know of any cross reference that could be used to determine if the firmware in the car is current or contains relevant fixes.

I had the firmware update after I explained the dealer that I saw some trouble info in the dash related to a low battery (break issue,….). My dealer was smart enough to upgrade some modules instead of replacing the battery. Still have the original one after 4 years now.
That being said, last week, I exposed my car in EV car show (jaguar doesn’t bother attending those show), and people were opening and closing doors and trunk all day long, during three days. I was able to get back home 250 km away without any problem, I plug the car at home and the next day, I unlock the door to unplug without problem. A few hours later I wanted to open the car. Impossible. The car was completely dead. I opened the car with the physical key, found the latch to open the frunk, and check the voltage of the starter battery : 2v… quite dead. It did not like the 3 days at the show. I jumped started the battery, and after 2 min she cames alive, but with lot of issue in the dash :EV hybrid battery problem , break feel reduce, … After 1 day every problem disappear ed. The traction battery refilled the 12v properly , and no problem since then. Conclusion: the 12v is getting old, but still maintained in good shape in ´normal condition’ by the traction battery.

 

[sciencegeek]

That's a great anecdote.

Wow you really showed off your car! Sounds like it must have been fun, apart from the battery issue...