Thanks for the information. Did you have the dealer checking it out? From other postings, OK to drive with caution. Brake pedal feel reduced, bad things can happen following such warnings.I got these warnings when I was spending a bit of time cleaning the inside and fitting my Dash Cam. It was the 12v battery low volts which fixed itself after a drive.
As it happens I got a similar error message and was able to get a very good response from Grand Touring Auto Service Department. What I learned is that the car-like functions of the iPace are powered by a 12 volt battery and not by the high voltage battery that run the drive motors. They tested that battery which powers the ABS brakes and the instrument panel/infotainment systems, and found it be shot or at least not operating to standard. They replaced it and did all kinds of software updates (its like being at the Apple store) and everything seems back to AOK. I have a 2019 iPace.Had my First Edition for almost 2 years and 30,000 trouble free miles now but yesterday, for the first time, "OK to drive with caution Break pedal feel reduced" appeared in the left side of the dashboard display. At the time, I thought maybe the charge was too low (only 7% charge left) as the car drives normally otherwise. Charged to 100%, restarted, no more warnings. However, after driving 120 miles to another city today, "OK to drive with caution Break pedal feel reduced" appeared again. Only this time, it followed by another warning "OK to drive with caution Traction battery fault detected". Drove to a Jaguar Dealer 3 miles down the road. They have only one I-pace certified technician and earliest service appointment is a week away (no loan car available either). Was told it is safe to drive. So drive with caution 100 miles back home, no warnings, no problems. Here is my questions:
1) What could be the possible cause?
2) Is it safe to drive while waiting for the service?
3) Is it safe to drive 100 miles next week to get the service? Likely have to get a rental car to drive back and who knows for how long.
4) Will try to get a service appointment from the local Jaguar dealer (5 miles away from my home) but if I cannot get one before the one from 100 miles, should I wait regardless?
Thanks in advance.
I had it towed the first time it happened to me (the tow driver boosted the 12v so it came back to life and I drove it up the flatbed instead of winching it), the second time (at home this time) I bought a booster and drove it on the flatbed. The third time I boosted it, and let it “run” for 30 min to see if the battery held and drove it to the dealer. It was a Sunday and i was headed out of town so I did not want to wait for a tow or leave it home dead for 2 weeks and then wait for a repair. It drove fine. You can use the web page dernotte made (look up web page in the forum) and you can watch the 12v to see it is dropping or stable.Update:
This morning, all sorts of warnings popped up when I started the car. The car won't get into R or D mode. Turned off and on again a few minutes later, no more warnings and back to "normal". Not sure if I should try to drive to the dealer (5 miles) or have it towed tomorrow for the scheduled appointment.
Almost certainly the problem is the 12 volt battery. A few months ago I started to have random faults being reported until one day the entire vehicle system died. It was diagnosed by JLR after a 120 mile tow truck ride as a bad cell in the 12 volt battery. The dealer replaced the battery and my car has run perfectly ever since. The service manager told me that those 12 volt batteries rarely last more than 3 years old. My car is a 2019 First Edition.May I suggest using the search function as all of your questions have been asked and answered in other threads.
The battery that failed here is the small one on the left side of the car's frunk (right side if you're standing in front of the vehicle and looking at the stuff under the removable panel behind the storage pocket). It is awkward to get to and replace but it can be done (the mechanics do it so a competent owner should be able to replace it too). The trouble is finding one at a location other than a dealer. It is an odd size. Here's a picture of an older one (part number is different now). It is used in many JLR products though they stopped using them in most (I-pace since MY21 don't have them).
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Just searching this forum clearly show this 12 volt battery fault is a common problem but can be easily resolved if properly addressed. Yet, it has put many of us in a very bad situation. Failure of a battery in the middle of a drive is dangerous. I just wonder why Jaguar cannot update the software to give a clear warning such as "OK to drive with caution but the 12v battery may need service soon". This would greatly reduce Jaguar's service cost, too.Almost certainly the problem is the 12 volt battery. A few months ago I started to have random faults being reported until one day the entire vehicle system died. It was diagnosed by JLR after a 120 mile tow truck ride as a bad cell in the 12 volt battery. The dealer replaced the battery and my car has run perfectly ever since. The service manager told me that those 12 volt batteries rarely last more than 3 years old. My car is a 2019 First Edition.
WattCat developer here.Just searching this forum clearly show this 12 volt battery fault is a common problem but can be easily resolved if properly addressed. Yet, it has put many of us in a very bad situation. Failure of a battery in the middle of a drive is dangerous. I just wonder why Jaguar cannot update the software to give a clear warning such as "OK to drive with caution but the 12v battery may need service soon". This would greatly reduce Jaguar's service cost, too.
Learning from this incident, I would like to learn how to monitor the battery health myself. We have data readily available from Apps like WattCat. There are two numbers from Details page of WattCat: Aux Battery Voltage and TCU Battery %. It will be nice to know:
1) Are those readings accurate or we need to measure the voltage with a meter?
2) What should be the normal range of those two readings? I regret I did not pay attention to the readings before the replacement of the battery.
3) Should we worry about the TCU battery, too? I have not see many reports on failures of this battery. I do see some report that both batteries were replaced. Are the health of those batteries correlated?
4) What measures can one take to prolong the battery life?
Many thanks in advance.
Thank you so much for developing WattCat and answering questions!WattCat developer here.
1) The readings are generally accurate but the 12V values have been proven to be off at times. I only have anecdotal evidence of this though and in my experience the reported values have generally been within the expected range.
2) I have never had issues with my 12V battery, but I’ve added some alert thresholds in WattCat that will notify the user if the 12V battery voltage or TCU battery level drops to concerning levels.
3) The TCU battery gets charged while driving (I have some more in-depth information in my notes somewhere) and even if it does go flat it only means that remote control won’t be possible until you take the car for a drive again. I’ve never seen my TCU battery level drop below 80% but I’ve seen other users, especially during the height of the pandemic, report more significant drops.
tldr; I wouldn’t worry too much. I recommend having a 12V battery charger in the vehicle.
Great to hear it was resolved in a timely manner.2019 First Edition , just under 3 years, 27,600 miles. After overnight charging, got in the car, "Traction battery fault", "OK to drive with caution Brake pedal feel reduced", car would not shift into gear, and shut down after about 10 seconds with the "P" indicator on the shifter and the main display blinking for about 30 seconds. Tried to start multiple times , same result.
Luckily, read this blog frequently and recognized its probably one of the 12v batteries. Put a trickle charger on the 12v aux battery ( drivers side US spec) overnight. Next morning, after several tries, car started and pretended like nothing happened.
Drove the 15 miles to the St Petersburg FL dealer, dropped it off. Told them the story. They dont have a qualified I Pace mechanic, will have to send it up to Clearwater dealer, 10 miles up the road ( We are fortunate to have 3 dealers in a 30 mile radius of Tampa, 4 if you count the new dealer in Lakeland , 5 if you include Sarasota). No loaners cuz theres nothing on the lot, and estimated 3 weeks to get it back.
Got it back today after just 9 days. Clearwater replaced the starter battery - 861501 startup battery renew 77711 WJS. Also replaced aux battery - 861503 auxiliary battery renew 77711 WJS. Also did updates to Electric Power Inverter Control (EPIC) B, C, AND D. Updated the Battery energy control Module (BECM). Updated Power Control Module (PCM). Updated the Gateway Module (GWM). For the battery Charger Control Module they replaced the ECU.
Seems good now. Still love the car. Probably have to pry it from my cold dead hands.
2019 I Pace First Edition, Photon Red