Jaguar I-Pace EV400 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
2020 I-PACE SE w/ 22" F-PACE Wheels
Joined
·
222 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
For those of us with air suspension, you're likely aware of the 3D printed lowering links that dcdrive has created and distributed on the forums. I purchased a pair and and started to install them, but ultimately decided that I wanted a little less drop (these are 1.25" front, 1.5" rear), and a link that more closely resembled the factory part. I had heard that Ghost Motosport out of LA had made a custom pair of adjustable links for a member, but contacted them and they weren't making them any more. However, they referred me to John of Edgy Mods. I contacted John, and he sent me a set of adjustable links to test. I'm happy to report that they work great, and I was able to dial in the drop that I was looking for (1"). I'm also a fan of the fact that these are made out of rubber and metal, and more closely mimic the factory links.

The install is pretty straightforward, and has been detailed in the previously linked thread so I'm not going to rehash it here. In short, the fronts are easy; just jack up the car a bit. Always use jack stands to be on the safe side. I highly recommend using some sudsy water or WD40 on the links when trying to work them off. I also found a small flat-head screwdriver to be useful. Start by removing the end that is not attached to the sensor unit with the pivoting arm. For the rears, the wheels have to come off, and they are a little less accessible, but still not bad. When installing these, the "long side" should be the one at the top.

As numerous people have attested, ride quality is better after lowering. Particularly for bumps that include a lot of strut compression; e.g. pulling into a raised driveway or the like. You also get less residual side to side swaying under certian settings. The lower center of gravity will no doubt help with handling a bit, and aerodynamics ever so slightly.

Stock height is on the left:
Wheel Car Vehicle Tire Hood


Here are dcdrive's 3D printed plastic links, alongside one of the factory links:
Rectangle Font Auto part Aluminium Metal


Here are the Edgy Mods links:
Eye Product Medical equipment Tool Font


Edgy installed on the front:
Automotive tire Gas Bell Automotive wheel system Metal


I've been desperate to lower the car over the 2 years that we've owned it, and always lamented the fact that we didn't have an aftermarket option that was adjustable. Super stoked to have the 1" drop. Even though it's "subtle," the car looks way better. And this way there's a bit more front end clearance than the 3D printed, which is good for the wife. You also have the benefit of taking the suspension less away from factory spec.

Happy to answer any questions. If you email John I suspect he'll be able to do the same thing for you. Price is $179 USD.
 

·
Registered
2020 I-PACE SE w/ 22" F-PACE Wheels
Joined
·
222 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
For those interested in the math behind adjusting these links, I inferred the amount of drop you get per each mm of link adjustment based on dcdrive's math (size of his links versus stock, calculated based on his 1.25" front and 1.5" rear drop). Below is the table that I used to arrive at my desired drop and link length. Probably not an exact science, but seemed fairly spot on from my experience. Note that for the fronts you lengthen them to lower, for the rears you shorten. And the 'desired length' isn't the length of the whole link, but the length from the connecting points (holes).
Rectangle Font Parallel Number Pattern
 

·
Registered
2020 I-PACE SE w/ 22" F-PACE Wheels
Joined
·
222 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This is useful! I wonder if's a linear change or follows a curve.
I can't say for certain, but the assumption of my calcs was linear, and they seemed to be very accurate when applied in reality. Granted they were relatively minor adjustments from the 3D printed links though. Given the fact that the sensor arm moves in an articulating motion, it wouldn't surprise me if there is some curve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Hi,

thanks for doing this legwork! this is the type of quality aftermarket part that hits the mark for me, so I am appreciative. Is it wintery where you are? I am curious how these will hold up over the long term..

can you advise if there is a specific part number for your links for ordering with them? They dont have Jag listed on their site.

also, how do you ensure the adjustment is identical on each side?

Finally, do you need an alignment after the drop?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,611 Posts
I'd expect a curve, and even a slightly different one front and back. Are any adjustable while on the car? They don't appear to be. It's a shame we have so little software control over our cars. This should be fully user adjustable. I'm sure there's a way to do it, but I'm not nearly technical enough.
 

·
Registered
2020 I-PACE SE w/ 22" F-PACE Wheels
Joined
·
222 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No specific part number; if you email John he will know what to send. I suspect they'll be up on the site soon since I just gave him the green light that they worked for me.

They are indeed adjustable while on the car, but you're doing a lot of the same work you would have to perform in order to remove the link. You remove just one of the link ends and then can twist it to shorten or lengthen it. It does make dialing in the right height a bit easier. The fronts are super easy; for the rears you'll still need to remove the wheel to adjust.

@suburban_gorilla In order to ensure they are identically sized on each side isn't hard. You can try by counting the number of threads exposed, though you'll definitely need to squint a bit. If you have a caliper or similar measurement tool it should do the job nicely. I didn't, but ended up just putting the two links together in a bench vice to ensure that they were exactly the same length. And once they were on the car, I measured the wheel well gaps to ensure that the car was level.

An alignment probably isn't a bad idea, but is going to be contingent on the drop. I would expect 1" to throw off camber, but probably not massively out of spec. Negative camber is actually useful for cornering at the expense of tire wear. I've decided to not get an alignment, and will wait until my next set of tires in around 10-15k miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
559 Posts
Thanks for doing the detailed write up and instructions! I would do it but I already have Dcdrive installed and no big complaints. I would be interested to see how much these cost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
for $179 US you get parts made of rubber and metal, cant go wrong. While I respect the dude who printed them, I'd prefer the rubber and metal adjustable option.....

I heard back from John today. He advised the website will be updated shortly but in the interim, to order the new "Range Rover Sport" kit and specify it is for the IPACE in the comments.

I am going to pick this up. Thanks for doing the legwork!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Brendon

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
I am the member that had Ghost Motorsports build me a custom set about 15 months ago, and that included about 2 hours labor to test fit, identify the range of adjustment, and dial in the perfect height. The drop is not exactly linear and can actually be different from side to side with the same length links. Its not much so you can get away with the fixed length links, but some cars may be a little off.

The links the OP posted look much better and are a few dollar less than what I paid Ghostlinks. Front and back links are different sizes when installed as the front needs longer than stock links and the rear needs shorter.

BTW, you can adjust the rear links without take the wheel off if you have it on a lift.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
175 Posts
Given the fact that the sensor arm moves in an articulating motion, it wouldn't surprise me if there is some curve.
In the rear, if you've seen how the pin aligns with the sensor arm, more drop results in higher curvature, and around 56 mm and below, there's a chance that the joint will straightline (as opposed to staying tangential) when the wheel is unloaded. So any lower drop would require redesigning/replacing rear suspension pin.
Front side seems OK.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
175 Posts
for $179 US you get parts made of rubber and metal, cant go wrong. While I respect the dude who printed them, I'd prefer the rubber and metal adjustable option.....
Thanks, and one interesting point in respect to rubber+metal:
Always see how you redistribute forces, and what's the "weak link" in extreme load situation. 3D-printed one will unclip or break itself; in case of metal one, it will be sensor arm. Repair cost is $0..20 vs $200+.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Thanks, and one interesting point in respect to rubber+metal:
Always see how you redistribute forces, and what's the "weak link" in extreme load situation. 3D-printed one will unclip or break itself; in case of metal one, it will be sensor arm. Repair cost is $0..20 vs $200+.
Fully understood, no slight intended. by extreme load situation do you mean a super-low drop?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
I have received the links and they are on. what a difference! I need to adjust mine to dial in the setup. I think my fronts are way too low.

Any tips from the modders? my computer is very unhappy and it keeps raising the BACK due to an "obstruction" when I am parking and trying to air out to access height.. it pretty much refuses to squat down.

I am pretty sure I am doing something wrong here.

any ideas? do I need to dial the backs up a bit?

I cant seem to adjust the links to achieve these settings easily, the 63 mm length doesnt seem doable when I am adjusting the links.. am I doing something wrong here? I must be.

thoughts? suggestions?
 

·
Registered
2020 I-PACE SE w/ 22" F-PACE Wheels
Joined
·
222 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I cant seem to adjust the links to achieve these settings easily, the 63 mm length doesnt seem doable when I am adjusting the links.. am I doing something wrong here? I must be.

thoughts? suggestions?
63mm would be from the holes, of course. It is most certainly is doable with my set, but I had the same belief initially until I discovered that I had reversed the fronts and rears. Use the ones with the small end to shorten and the ones with th elonger end to lengthen. It sounds like you might have them reversed.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
175 Posts
Any tips from the modders? my computer is very unhappy and it keeps raising the BACK due to an "obstruction" when I am parking and trying to air out to access height.. it pretty much refuses to squat down.
I would suggest just disabling access height, as it's already low. (Honestly, I think it should go up for access height, not down)
And length-wise, op to 80 front / 60 rear (hole-to-hole) should be totally usable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
63mm would be from the holes, of course. It is most certainly is doable with my set, but I had the same belief initially until I discovered that I had reversed the fronts and rears. Use the ones with the small end to shorten and the ones with th elonger end to lengthen. It sounds like you might have them reversed.
I have them on correctly. It turns out he sent me the wrong kit. I'll have to dial it in when I get the proper links for the back. I am not sure what is going on with the fronts.

I would suggest just disabling access height, as it's already low. (Honestly, I think it should go up for access height, not down)
And length-wise, op to 80 front / 60 rear (hole-to-hole) should be totally usable.
I pre-measured it to be sure. to be precise, is the measurement from the theoretical centre of the hole or is it from the bottom edge of the hole?
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top