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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Please help. Here is my situation. In the last week, my vehicle will show fully charged and after driving only 30 or so miles the car is down to low power mode. Also, when my mileage displayed on the dash gets to 20 miles or less it literally drops about 1 mile every five seconds so it drops incredibly fast. And then goes into the reduced power mode. When I hook it up to my charging station, I can see how many miles were added back and is generally very close to the actual miles driven. which tells me that what the dash is telling me is completely wrong and the batteries are in fact not fully depleted. Has anybody had any experience with the situation and what did you do. I called my local dealership and the earliest they can get me in and provide me a rental car is late July. Like everyone there having issues with rental cars and help. Not sure I can make it that long without getting it in. Thank you for all the help and responses in advance.
 

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Did this happen just out of the blue? Or has it slowly been losing milage?
You should check the kWh used and kWh added when charging.
Can you explain what you mean by "dash is telling me is completely wrong.."
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did this happen just out of the blue? Or has it slowly been losing milage?
You should check the kWh used and kWh added when charging.
Can you explain what you mean by "dash is telling me is completely wrong.."
Thanks for replying. This started out of the blue. On your second point I have done that. When I compare actual miles driven and actual miles replenished by the charger they are almost spot on. What I meant by “the dash” comment is the battery shows depleted but the battery charger shows it only needed the amount of charge equivalent to the miles driven.
 

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Do you have an Android phone or pad? If so, get the WattCat app. On its charging display, you will find a number showing kWh capacity and one for a calculated optimization. Those would be interesting to see.

An alternative is using https://ipace.herokuapp.com/static/param.html and copy/paste relevant battery and charging data here.

It reads like a traction battery failure of cells, a BEM fault, a BECM fault, a software issue, or something else we can't determine without actually hooking up a diagnostic interface. You may be stuck until the dealer can see this patient.
 

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Haven’t headed something like this reported frequently on this forum. What year is your I pace?

I would be interested to know if your cars stops in low power mode, or if it continues going if you keep driving it?
 

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When you are talking about "miles replenished by the charger" are you getting that data from the EVSE itself (e.g. the ChargePoint app for a ChargePoint charger, etc.)? If so, see if you can find that data from the charger in terms of actual energy delivered (kWh) - that way you can eliminate the estimation that's involved in converting that to "miles per hour."

What we've seen here in the past seems to be that the I-pace does not report battery or module failures to the user, but instead reacts by just treating whatever the battery will hold as 100% charge, no matter how far that may be from the intended capacity.

That seems to be the symptoms you're describing: the car is reporting 100% charge because 100% of the AVAILABLE capacity is filled, when in fact that available capacity is below the intended capacity. Then you see the state of charge drop much faster than usual because the energy consumed to move the vehicle does not change, but it's drawing from a much smaller than expected storage.

Your battery should be able to accept somewhere in the neighborhood of 80-90 kWh to go from 0% to 100% charged. If you measure the amount of kWh added by your charger and divide it by the percent of charge your car thinks it got, you can back into an approximation of the actual available energy storage capacity of your car. This works better for larger changes in state of charge, but still gives you a general idea.

For example: I charged my car from an indicated 26% to 100% state of charge. During that charge my ChargePoint app reported that I added 67.08 kWh. Subtract 26 from 100 to get a 74% change in state of charge. Divide 67.08/0.74 to get ~90 kWh - which would be the theoretical available capacity of my battery. (ignoring charging losses, etc.) This is a very rough estimate but it's enough to know if you're in the general ballpark. My guess is you're going to end up with a number much less than 80 or 90, unfortunately.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
When you are talking about "miles replenished by the charger" are you getting that data from the EVSE itself (e.g. the ChargePoint app for a ChargePoint charger, etc.)? If so, see if you can find that data from the charger in terms of actual energy delivered (kWh) - that way you can eliminate the estimation that's involved in converting that to "miles per hour."

What we've seen here in the past seems to be that the I-pace does not report battery or module failures to the user, but instead reacts by just treating whatever the battery will hold as 100% charge, no matter how far that may be from the intended capacity.

That seems to be the symptoms you're describing: the car is reporting 100% charge because 100% of the AVAILABLE capacity is filled, when in fact that available capacity is below the intended capacity. Then you see the state of charge drop much faster than usual because the energy consumed to move the vehicle does not change, but it's drawing from a much smaller than expected storage.

Your battery should be able to accept somewhere in the neighborhood of 80-90 kWh to go from 0% to 100% charged. If you measure the amount of kWh added by your charger and divide it by the percent of charge your car thinks it got, you can back into an approximation of the actual available energy storage capacity of your car. This works better for larger changes in state of charge, but still gives you a general idea.

For example: I charged my car from an indicated 26% to 100% state of charge. During that charge my ChargePoint app reported that I added 67.08 kWh. Subtract 26 from 100 to get a 74% change in state of charge. Divide 67.08/0.74 to get ~90 kWh - which would be the theoretical available capacity of my battery. (ignoring charging losses, etc.) This is a very rough estimate but it's enough to know if you're in the general ballpark. My guess is you're going to end up with a number much less than 80 or 90, unfortunately.
Thank you for this detailed response. When I get home I will follow exactly what you posted. So frustrating for sure and the fact they can’t look at until July 27th means I will never purchase a Jag again. And I hate to say that because I truly love this vehicle but service after the sale has been very poor for me. Oh well. Live and learn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you for this detailed response. When I get home I will follow exactly what you posted. So frustrating for sure and the fact they can’t look at until July 27th means I will never purchase a Jag again. And I hate to say that because I truly love this vehicle but service after the sale has been very poor for me. Oh well. Live and learn.
Thank you for this detailed response. When I get home I will follow exactly what you posted. So frustrating for sure and the fact they can’t look at until July 27th means I will never purchase a Jag again. And I hate to say that because I truly love this vehicle but service after the sale has been very poor for me. Oh well. Live and learn.
So here is the data. Battery was at 1%. ChargePoint app says it charged 16.3kWh. So if I am following you correctly does that mean my vehicle is only accepting around a max of 16-18 kWh in total?
 

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So here is the data. Battery was at 1%. ChargePoint app says it charged 16.3kWh. So if I am following you correctly does that mean my vehicle is only accepting around a max of 16-18 kWh in total?
That indeed is much less than it should accept. Can you check the battery level on the car? What is it reporting? In general, noting the battery state of charge (SOC) is better than the range as the SOC is a real number representing the battery and the range is the battery state multiplied by a fuzzy estimate of miles per kWh, so that can muddy thing us when trying to see what things are doing. If you registered with the InControl iPace app (you have a username and password), you can use the web page suggested above to get a better snapshot of the car. You will get an indication of the SOC as a % as well as the kWh in the battery. It would be easier to see if the battery had an issue because you can use the SOC and stored energy displayed to estimate the total battery capacity.
 

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So if I am following you correctly does that mean my vehicle is only accepting around a max of 16-18 kWh in total?
Assuming that the finish state of charge was 100% then yes, that is how I would interpret your data. Unfortunately it seems like your car has a serious problem of the sort @Ayepace mentioned above. Others on here have had cells or modules of their battery go bad and had symptoms just like yours, though yours is the worst I have seen.

I am very sorry this is the experience you're having. This will require a trip to the dealer to resolve. The possible silver lining is that some dealers have started to be willing to replace individual bad modules as opposed to replace the entire traction battery (which was the original fix for this issue), which could mean less time off the road if they are easier to source.
 

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Or call a different dealer in the area, if you have another option. Assuming your kitty will make it there…
Car may still have the included 5 year/60k miles roadside assistance that would tow it to any nearby dealer at no cost to the owner. We'd need more specifics about the ailing cat to know.
 

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Thank you for this detailed response. When I get home I will follow exactly what you posted. So frustrating for sure and the fact they can’t look at until July 27th means I will never purchase a Jag again. And I hate to say that because I truly love this vehicle but service after the sale has been very poor for me. Oh well. Live and learn.
There's no reason to assume this delayed service experience wouldn't happen with another brand. I was at a hardware store today and a customer was complaining of waiting since last December for a Husqvarna tool (mower I think) part. Service and parts availability are bad for just about everything.
 

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There's no reason to assume this delayed service experience wouldn't happen with another brand. I was at a hardware store today and a customer was complaining of waiting since last December for a Husqvarna tool (mower I think) part. Service and parts availability are bad for just about everything.
the Jaguar dealer has been better than my previous Porsche dealer, about the same as the Audi dealer for me.
 

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This happened to me. Turned out there were two bad modules in the battery pack. After those were replaced, after waiting weeks for parts, we had kitty back for a couple of weeks when I couldn’t move it out of the garage one morning. They then replaced the power distribution module.

Good luck.
 
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