Unless the fault codes are cleared (by the dealer, or a savvy user who has the right tool), they just pile up ... when was the last time your cat was at the vet?

 

I could clear them myself but I'm coming up to the 42K service interval soon so I'll leave them. I'll clear them if they are there after the cat's physical. I intend to request that the vet checks the programming of all modules since I found all of these faults. They should clear them.

 

Those of you with the whatchmacallit account might be able to find info.

 

They do have "Global real time" indicating when it occurred, but that is a big number such as "1661259.812" minutes or bigger numbers for milliseconds. I don't know how to convert that to a UTC time assuming that is what it would be. Let me know if you have a decoder ring for "global real time."

That number seemed low for minutes, so I did the math. It's 3 years, 58 days, 15 hours, 39 minutes. I wonder if that corresponds to the time clock was first turned on?

 

It looks like a Unix timestamp, which is the number of seconds that have elapsed since January 1 1970. For instance if you ignore the decimal point then 1661259812 is August 23 of this year, so perhaps its internal clock is a couple of weeks ahead? But the 3 years+ seems likely too.

 

Yes, that value may be minutes of power-on use. I have a 2019 cat.
In the same data is 99675588700 ms. That works out to the same time; just expressed in ms instead of min.
The distance recorded is 56271 km (34965 mi). That was some time ago and definitely many, many stop/starts ago.

In one of the freeze frame samples I found

"ID":1,"LB":"Global real time","VA":"-2212078.933","UNT":"min","RV":"","HP":false}
"ID":2,"LB":"Global real time","VA":"-2212078.933","UNT":"min","RV":"","HP":false}
"ID":3,"LB":"Global real time","VA":"-132724736000","UNT":"ms","RV":"","HP":false}
"ID":4,"LB":"Global real time","VA":"-132724736000","UNT":"ms","RV":"","HP":false}
"ID":5,"LB":"Total distance","VA":"5713456","UNT":"km","RV":"","HP":false}
"ID":6,"LB":"Total distance","VA":"5713456","UNT":"km","RV":"","HP":false}
"ID":7,"LB":"Main ECU Voltage Supply","VA":"15.0","UNT":"V","RV":"","HP":false}
"ID":8,"LB":"Main ECU Voltage Supply","VA":"15.0","UNT":"V","RV":"","HP":false}
"ID":9,"LB":"In-car temperature.","VA":"2","UNT":"DegC","RV":"","HP":false}
"ID":10,"LB":"In-car temperature.","VA":"2","UNT":"DegC","RV":"","HP":false}
"ID":11,"LB":"Outside Temperature","VA":"-40","UNT":"DegC","RV":"","HP":false}
"ID":12,"LB":"Outside Temperature","VA":"-40","UNT":"DegC","RV":"","HP":false}

I'm reasonably certain I have not driven back in time, over 3.5 million miles, in -40C weather. I have driven in weather with the interior at 2C before it got warmed up, though.
So it can capture momentary bad data.

 

I would think a lot of the data is from the first time they hotted up the car at the factory. I am sure there are lots of capacitors that are getting hotted up for the 1st time, giving an amp surge. I'm glad to see your gear shift is OK! [ 17 - Gear Shift Module [GSM],Pass | No Fault ]

 

I took the cat to the vet for its 42K mile service. It came back with all of the above fault codes cleared (as I determined from a scan this morning) and a disclaimer that the scan tool may have caused some of them. There were 5 fault codes found in my scan this morning and the freeze frame data showed that they all occurred while the cat was in the shop. The data shows the kilometers of when the faults happened so it was quite clear it wasn't my scanner. They all cleared this AM. The scanner did not cause any.

I also have record of my BECM software version displayed on the software update display was BP-AAE-BC-AC-BE and is now BR-AAJ-BE-AE-BE. They did not note any software updates being applied and in fact state everything is current. BTW, my scanner shows software versions for the various modules. Based on that the 'BR' comes from the BECM and the other values all relate to software versions in the BCCM.

I have monitors on the 12V batteries. There is a definite change in their voltage levels. It went into the vet with the auxiliary battery showing about 12.7V at rest and is now showing around 14.4. The starting battery was showing and is showing the same results too within fraction of a volt. I'll keep an eye on these as they may be recharging/recovering from the several on-off sequences noted for when it was being operated on.

I also got a new key fob battery as part of the 42K service. I had just replaced it a few days before ("smart key not found" message when trying to start it) and found a loose CR2032 in the cupholder. I have no idea if the loose one is the one from the fob or the new one from the dealer. They are the same brand. I had put a scrap of paper in the fob noting the date-of-change. This was probably a surprise to the tech and would explain why the "old" battery had not been thrown away.

 

Well, it appears the car is not fully shutting down. That explains the 12V battery readings. They are being charged. The hazard light is not going off after the appropriate amount of time.

 

When your tailights start flashing it is time for a new starter battery.

 

I looked at the data from the monitors for the 12V batteries. Mysteriously at 15:01 on Friday while it was in their shop the starter battery had a big momentary drop to 8V. It is after that point that it appeared to start up and get stuck at charging the 12V batteries. It remained doing this overnight Friday-Saturday while still in their shop and continued throughout yesterday and today.

I've got the L2 charger hooked up now getting the traction battery charged up. 12V data shows charging voltage on the batteries.

The vet will have a return visitor early in the morning tomorrow to see if something needs to be reset. Another person here had a similar situation that their dealer found BECM software corrupted and it had to be reloaded and reset.

Hopefully that big drop doesn't mean something got shorted out and fried something that will require a long wait for parts.

 

Are there multiple readings supporting the drop to 8V? If not it could just be a measurement glitch.

 

The cat was left at the vet shortly after 8AM. From then it was in their control as they did whatever. That deep dip shown below at 15:01 went down to 8.01V. There a few readings to left and right of the low point that are 9.x and 8.x volts too. The monitor app allows one to slowly swipe ones finger along the graph and it shows a vertical red line with the time and voltage displayed. As you can see it remains at ~14V through the night long after they've closed up and gone home.

The deep dip to the left of the big dip was down to 11.23V at 13:51. The real issue is it getting stuck "on" after that.

The traction battery has been fully charged and now I'll monitor it for how low it goes overnight.

 

The cat went to the vet last Monday. The cat came back today.

There is no explanation for the drop to 8V. The fix for the "stuck on" condition was to reprogram the gateway module. It is noted as N392 RECALL.

I doubt anyone here got a recall notice for service action N392 with respect to the I-PACE. It was issued back in October 2019.
The bulletin on file at NHTSA is https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10167358-0001.pdf that applies to 2019 Range Rover, Range Rover Sport and Discovery models.

Nevertheless, the reprogramming did fix the problem. It looks like the update was loaded to the car, the car was shutdown and locked, and about 1 hour later the 12V battery monitor starts reporting the normal expected value for the cat when it is at rest.

The gateway module is the hub of all the networks in the car. Apparently it was messing up messaging between the modules and prevented the shutdown process to complete or be recognized as complete.

 

i have encountered this twice. First time they updated the BCM (i think was gateway as well). The second time they updated gateway module. They mentioned they cant use topix cloud to reflash the module but can use pathfinder instead.

You will find that your hazard light switch is ON eventhough you have locked your car for more than 30mins (it will stay ON and never go off). If you have this symptom, chances are your gateway module is corrupted and needed to be reflashed. And also, if you have battery monitoring system attached to your battery, you will find that your battery will be depleted to 12V and car will recharge the battery again. This cycle will continue until you fix the problem. Hope this help.