I think you're okay. Previously you posted that you use climate control all year and H264 and 20A release notes indicate an attempt to improve GoM accuracy. The GoM is probably responding to your driving style, ambient temperature and use of climate control. Considering the number of traction battery problems reported on this forum I highly recommend to everyone to track kWh. If WattCat is not an option because your phone is IOS there is another Apple-compatible app (Sorry, but I can't remember the name). If you use a charging system that reports how many kWh for per charge you can do the math to roughly determine what the battery is holding at 100%. I say roughly because there is some energy loss on every charge. I think Sciencegeek reported an energy loss of 14% but I see between 6%-8%. The other option is to see your dealer and ask for a battery health report. It's a pain but is the most accurate way to see if you're having a problem. I'd hate to see you worry about this as I know if it were me I would be losing sleep!Lowest I have ever seen, even pre H264 :-O
Last summer folks were calling their service departments when their GoM dropped following a software update. The advice was to bring the car in if their GoM dropped below 200 miles.Oh Sh*t, that is what I meant to say. I edited my post. I charged to 100% and then I reset my G-o-M. After resetting I got this lovely 210 miles at 100% SOC Fun!!! lol
Thank you Curt!Last summer folks were calling their service departments when their GoM dropped following a software update. The advice was to bring the car in if their GoM dropped below 200 miles.
The GoM is close to 200 miles now and it's clearly a worry for you so if you don't see an improvement over the next few weeks it might be worth while to see your dealer. The GoM will take awhile to readjust to you driving style after the reset so give it time.
I agree with that. The nuance is that you just should not fret over a few miles at 100% charge, where there is a lot of variability.You're right, Ken. The GoM is the ICE equivalent of distance to empty in the trip computer. As I previously posted we need to track achieved range and/or battery kWh. If those numbers are also declining then there might be a problem. I think for some owners this may be hard to do. So if a declining GoM is worrisome then a call to the service advisor could help with the anxiety.
I think even humidity enters into the equation. Despite the similar temperatures that I was experiencing on the previous charge, we’ve had much higher humidity on my current charge. As at least a contributing factor, I’ve observed a drop of about 10 miles of actual range (not GoM) despite almost identical driving. It makes sense since the AC has been working harder just like my AC at home.I agree with that. The nuance is that you just should not fret over a few miles at 100% charge, where there is a lot of variability.
The much better way to compare GoM readings, if you're really forced to do that and you don't want to calculate actual consumption, would be if everyone reported their GoM reading at 80% and 50% and 20% SoC and we'd compare that. Not in the winter when Phoenix is at 80F and mjpsammon is at negative 20