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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In January my wife bought an Audi Etron and I enjoyed the electric experience so much I was gonna buy one for myself, but found the Ipace. Bought a 2019 first edition with 17k miles on it in February. April 5th I'm hustling down the freeway to pick my daughter up from school and get a big red triangle on the dash "battery fault detected, pull over safely" and the car literally quits and just coasts to a stop. Sat there for a couple hours waiting for a tow, then when we finally get the thing to the dealer it starts right up with no error messages.

I left it with them and initially they thought it was a 12v battery issue (which made sense to me judging by all the posts on here) but after charging and doing some computer updates they changed their mind and decided nothing was wrong and sent me home with it, a bit wary about the non-fix.

Well yesterday, exactly a month later I take the car to the carwash, park to dry and vacuum, and when I get back in I get the yellow caution message "traction battery fault detected ok to drive with caution" but the car won't go anywhere. Thankfully this time I was close to home and not in a time crunch, but I'm still quite frustrated. I'm getting to drive loaner cars more than my own car, and while a F-pace and a RR Volare are both very nice vehicles, I much prefer my own car. **** at this point I prefer the GTI I traded in.

Common theme I noticed. Both times the car was right at 27% charge. I normally charge overnight at home and don't often run below about 40%, but sometimes I have to do a lot of driving in a day and it gets pretty low. This second time was the first time I've had the car down to that low level since picking it up from them. It now has 22k miles on it.

So should I be leaning on them to actually replace that 12v battery, or are there other possible issues? Or should I just cut my losses, sell this thing while values are still up and just get a matching Audi to go with the wifes? As much as I love the driving experience and looks, aside from acceleration her car does everything just a little bit better. Starting to regret this decision.
 

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19 I-pace HSE Polaris/Fuji white with most options and a lot of accessories
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Given no history of the car prior to your custodianship, and age of vehicle, I'd suggest a 12V starter battery replacement. If dealer won't do it, an auto part store could supply one. It is a 99R/T4 size.

I've had 12V batteries in cars that charge fine but didn't have capacity needed for an initial start sequence. The I-pace has a lot of electronics and relays to activate when that start button is pressed and the voltage could be going too low.

Do you put your foot on the brake and push the button, or do you push button then foot on brake and second button push to start?
 

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19 I-pace HSE Polaris/Fuji white with most options and a lot of accessories
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This will require the dealership techs to retrieve fault code(s) to validate if a traction battery (or related systems) fault truly occurred or if low voltage from the starter battery caused a false problem condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's at the dealer now, I'm just waiting to hear what they say. Last time it was there at first they told me it was the 12v battery, but then changed their minds. I've only had the car back from them about 2 weeks, and of that it spent 7 days parked as I was out of town. I feel like I should get more than 8 days of usage out of the car between dealer visits, so this time I'm going to lean a little harder on them to actually fix something rather than just charge it up, shrug and give it back.
This will require the dealership techs to retrieve fault code(s) to validate if a traction battery (or related systems) fault truly occurred or if low voltage from the starter battery caused a false problem condition.
 

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Congrats on your FE!

it seems many of the 2019s are running to 12V battery problems after about 3 years.

The dealer should be able to tell you what happened. But if I were you I wouldn’t take it back unless there is a fix or new 12V batteries
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Congrats on your FE!

it seems many of the 2019s are running to 12V battery problems after about 3 years.

The dealer should be able to tell you what happened. But if I were you I wouldn’t take it back unless there is a fix or new 12V batteries
Yeah I would have hoped they would have been able to figure it out last time, and was a bit encouraged initially when they said it was the 12V battery. That seems like the likely cause. I was less than happy when they simply did a computer reset and said they couldn't find a problem. At least this time I made sure to take a picture of the instrument cluster with the error before taking it to them, since I now know that simply sitting for a while will likely reset things and the error will go away. The first time it refused to move no matter what I did, but magically was 100% fine upon arrival at the dealership. I checked on the car after it was towed in yesterday and sure enough, it had also reset itself and appeared fine.
 

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Many of us have had multiple 12v problems. In my case, the first time the dealer did some software updates. That lasted about 2 months and the issue happened again. That time, they replaced the modules that manage the charging of the 12v batteries but they were sure the batteries themselves were ok (passed the required tests twice). That lasted a few months and was stranded again (in my driveway this time) so they replaced the starter and aux battery and had to replace the modules a second time. Long story short, ultimately, they may have to replace the batteries and the sooner they come to that conclusion, the better.
 

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Many of us have had multiple 12v problems. In my case, the first time the dealer did some software updates. That lasted about 2 months and the issue happened again. That time, they replaced the modules that manage the charging of the 12v batteries but they were sure the batteries themselves were ok (passed the required tests twice). That lasted a few months and was stranded again (in my driveway this time) so they replaced the starter and aux battery and had to replace the modules a second time. Long story short, ultimately, they may have to replace the batteries and the sooner they come to that conclusion, the better.
It might be wise to change out the12V pre -emptively every 2 years. Consider it a maintenance expense. Like an oil change for an ICE.
 

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iPhone version is MyPace.

Wattcat has more features and is a bit more polished, but both give more information than the JLR app.
 
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Given no history of the car prior to your custodianship, and age of vehicle, I'd suggest a 12V starter battery replacement. If dealer won't do it, an auto part store could supply one. It is a 99R/T4 size.

I've had 12V batteries in cars that charge fine but didn't have capacity needed for an initial start sequence. The I-pace has a lot of electronics and relays to activate when that start button is pressed and the voltage could be going too low.

Do you put your foot on the brake and push the button, or do you push button then foot on brake and second button push to start?
My neighbour and I both had 12v battery failures at the same. In my case it manifested as the heater not working so I was not stranded and Jaguar Assist mechanic diagnosed it on my drive with his computer. My dealer replaced it but it’s a big job because the entire EV battery deck has to be removed to get at the 12v unit. Jaguar provided a courtesy car.
 

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My neighbour and I both had 12v battery failures at the same. In my case it manifested as the heater not working so I was not stranded and Jaguar Assist mechanic diagnosed it on my drive with his computer. My dealer replaced it but it’s a big job because the entire EV battery deck has to be removed to get at the 12v unit. Jaguar provided a courtesy car.
"The entire EV battery deck has to be removed to get at the 12v unit"? That can be true., is it?
 

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The traction battery has to be removed to replace the HV heater that failed on the car. It is not a 12V unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
iPhone version is MyPace.

Wattcat has more features and is a bit more polished, but both give more information than the JLR app.
I downloaded Wattcat, and it certainly is worlds better than the JLR app. Been using it to spy on my car to see when they are gonna actually work on it. Definitely would have been nice to be able to see what the 12v battery voltage was when it wouldn't start up for me. It's now been with them a week, and as far as I can see all they have done is unlocked it and moved it once on Tuesday. Good thing I had them give me a loaner, though I'm definitely not thrilled about having to put gas in it and not being able to use the express lanes.
 
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