[ShyamUS]

I would be traveling for a week. The Jag would be parked in my Garage at home. Should I leave the car charger connected. I can start the car everyday remotely for a little while and turn it off. Will this keep my car in good condition. Or should I not charge and the car will start after a week when I return.

appreciate any wisdom on this. Thanks

 

[DocHudson]

Due to a lack of driving in the COVID world, I have left my kitty in the garage for a couple of weeks at a time with varying levels of charge and no attention, she has gone asleep and quickly wakes up and is ready to go when I finally return for another drive. I personally don't leave the charger plugged in unless it is charging or preconditioning. Otherwise it is always unplugged. I have noticed no significant drop in battery charge after the week or two of unplugged sleeping.

Safe travels and your Jag will be ready for you on your return!

 

[ShyamUS]

Thank you very much. I feel secure now. Stay safe and God bless

 

[bruintoo]

I would be traveling for a week. The Jag would be parked in my Garage at home. Should I leave the car charger connected. I can start the car everyday remotely for a little while and turn it off. Will this keep my car in good condition. Or should I not charge and the car will start after a week when I return.

appreciate any wisdom on this. Thanks

Early during the days of the pandemic, Jaguar released a statement saying that you should leave the I-PACE plugged in as much as you can so that the 12V battery won't drain. It's referenced somewhere in this forum too.

 

[sciencegeek]

I don't think a week should be an issue if you've been driving it fairly regularly before. I've let it sit for a week multiple times.

 

[Pollo de muerte]

My rules of thumb are ... (1) Less than a week, keep it plugged in; (2) between a week and two weeks, keep it unplugged and leave it with around 50% battery capacity; (3) more than two weeks but less than a month, keep the main battery unplugged at about 50% capacity but use a trickle charger on the 12v battery; (4) more than a month, use a trickle charger on the 12V and plug in the main battery at 50% capacity but only let it charge about 5% each month either through a third party app or a smart charger.

Scenario 1 and 2 are not a big deal and I wouldn't worry about those one way or the other (unless my 12V battery was showing signs of going bad). Scenarios three and four are a little more important, especially in terms of a trickle charger for the 12V.

 

[Meldev##44]

I didn't know you could run a separate trickle charge to the 12 v battery.

So you would run a 12v charger directly to the 12 v battery? Or 12v accessory outlet?
Won't the main battery maintain the 12 v battery's voltage, or does the car need to be on to charge.

 

[sciencegeek]

Won't the main battery maintain the 12 v battery's voltage, or does the car need to be on to charge.

It's my understanding that this is exactly why all BEVs may suffer from 12V battery issues: that battery only gets charged when the car is charging or driving.

 

[Pollo de muerte]

I would run it directly to the 12V battery.

CTEK makes the JLR branded stuff, so I generally go with them.

Over on the UK forum, I think this is the version that they use:

CTEK MXS 5.0

Features Charges batteries up to 110AH. Maintains larger batteries up to 160AH. Unique reconditioning mode Built-in temperature sensing capabilities AGM and new EFB (enhanced flooded battery) battery charging capability 8 step charging program Completely sealed unit Spark proof and...

smartercharger.com

 

[ChrisSB]

I would run it directly to the 12V battery.

CTEK makes the JLR branded stuff, so I generally go with them.

Over on the UK forum, I think this is the version that they use:

CTEK MXS 5.0

Features Charges batteries up to 110AH. Maintains larger batteries up to 160AH. Unique reconditioning mode Built-in temperature sensing capabilities AGM and new EFB (enhanced flooded battery) battery charging capability 8 step charging program Completely sealed unit Spark proof and...

smartercharger.com

I've used one of those for years on all three of my XFs. Works perfectly.

They do a new version of it, called Time To Go, works the same but is water resistant and shows the charge as a time to ready. CT5 TIME TO GO UK

 

[Ken]

Does anyone have a picture of where the leads go? I seem to recall Ayepace posted one once, but can't find it.

 

[Ayepace]

Using this clearer picture from fedorachef, the big 12V battery is pictured on the left. The positive post is under the red cap. The other post left of that is the negative post (stating the obvious).
The smaller 12 battery is on the opposite side with its positive post under that red cap.

 

[lobster]

On the photo above, the negative connection terminal for recharging the large "Start Battery" is the grey vertical blade next to the right hand side of the red insulated positive terminal cover, you can clip the insulated negative charger lead on there.

This battery has an electronic module attached to the negative terminal, charging Jaguar vehicles via the actual negative battery terminal post bypasses this monitor module that records battery charge and discharge amps. This blade is fitted for charging and Jump starting events.

The Red insulated cover over the positive terminal can be un-clipped by lightly inserting a thin screwdriver blade into each of the 4 slots around the edges while applying a slight lifting force to the cover.

Cheers, Steve

 

[Pollo de muerte]

A couple of comments from the "take it for what's it worth" department ...

A good quality trickle charger will come with two sets of connector cables; one set will have alligator clamps like you'd see on jumper cables and a second set will have eyelets. I prefer to use the eyelets and leave the cable in place. This will give a better connection and I only need to use the quick connect plug for the charger. The eyelets are designed to mount to the nut and bolt on the battery cable terminal clamp as so:

On a negative grounded vehicle like the I Pace, you'll always attach the red positive terminal directly to the red terminal clamp on the battery or to a post inline with the battery cable specifically for this purpose (my wife's Range Rover has a special positive terminal for this purpose, but I don't see one for the I Pace). As for the black negative cable, you only attach that directly to the battery when the car is not equipped with a Battery Monitoring System (BMS), which the I Pace has, or when the battery has been removed from the car.

The negative earth "blade" described in lobster's post is designed for alligator clips, but that won't work for the eyelet unless there is a bolt attached to the blade which isn't visible in the photo. That means you'll need to find a bolt attached to the chassis preferably with bare metal exposed. The only candidate that I see in the photo is the bolt on the clamp that secures the battery to the vehicle, but I'd much rather find something more isolated unless JLR has specifically indicated this bolt can be used for grounding purposes. You may be able to follow the black negative wire from the battery and find where it is attached to ground.

It's not a big deal to drill a small hole in the sheet metal and then use a self tapping screw to create a ground point, but I'd rather look for a dedicated post first. I'll poke around the car this weekend if no one reports on a solution first. On an ICE vehicle, it's really easy to find mounting points for a negative earth terminal since the engine block is a great source for this. It may require a little detective work on a BEV.

 

[ShyamUS]

Wow these are too complicated. My Audi Q7 and then Hyundai Palisade ( which had quite a bit of electronic in it like touch start, button for gears, remote start via phone app etc.) have been left in the garage for couple of months while traveling. On return they start with no issues. BEV are supposed to be advanced tech. But I guess it’s still evolving. Guess should have never given away the ICE vehicles!

I am going to take a chance and leave the car not charging and report back when I come back.

Thanks everyone for the help and support.

 

[Grunt]

...

So you would run a 12v charger directly to the 12 v battery? Or 12v accessory outlet?
...

Trickle charging via an accessory outlet? Is that possible? Recommended?
Seems more convenient than to open the drunk etc, but with the contact off I suppose that the outlets are disconnected as well?

 

[epirali]

Wow these are too complicated. My Audi Q7 and then Hyundai Palisade ( which had quite a bit of electronic in it like touch start, button for gears, remote start via phone app etc.) have been left in the garage for couple of months while traveling. On return they start with no issues. BEV are supposed to be advanced tech. But I guess it’s still evolving. Guess should have never given away the ICE vehicles!

I am going to take a chance and leave the car not charging and report back when I come back.

Thanks everyone for the help and support.

I will say I have left my I-Pace at 50% main traction battery charge unplugged for 2 months with no issues multiple times fwiw.

But trust me, if you have a sports car with smaller battery you will need trickle charger, both the Q7 and Hyundai have larger batteries. An Alfa 4C on the other hand...

And cars like the R8 and McLaren pretty much ship with a trickle charger for a reason.

 

[lobster]

Pollo, I found an excellent ready to use earth that would be perfect for your charge cable -ve "eyelet".

There is a small 4 or 5mm threaded hex bolt on the left hand edge of the large Aluminum module next to the battery.

I have used this bolt for my bluetooth battery monitor -ve connector. Refer to the photo on post #12 above, you can see the hex head bolt to the left of the large bar-coded label that is on the module top cover.

For the +ve "eyelet" charger terminal there is also an existing terminal bolt under the red plastic insulated cover, I loosened the hex nut and inserted my forked lug terminal there. I had to trim a notch into the edge of the red cover so that it would clip back on correctly.

When I replaced my large 12V battery with a 55Ah AGM battery, I noticed that the battery clamps have painted surfaces so these brackets would likely be poorly grounded to the chassis.

Cheers, Steve

 

[Pollo de muerte]

Awesome!

Thanks for the heads up.

 

[Ayepace]

As you can see in the picture below, there's a ground strap connection from the body to the negative post under the cover.
I don't see any issue making use of its attaching points.