[Snowflake]

It's conceivable that it's a neighborhood power issue, but I'm not buying it. Easy to check, though. Use a multimeter to measure the voltage drop when charging kicks in, yo.

I'm still thinking a software setting issue. Is a schedule for timed charging on? A schedule for preconditioning? In the In Control app and in the car? Disable all of these if they're on and see if the behavior persists.

 

[VMWang]

I’ll have an electrician check the connections. I wouldn’t know what I’m looking at myself. I’ve never seen the charger actually indicate there was something wrong - it’s never had a red circle. I had an electrician check the outlet before and he said it was fine but I’ll have a different one inspect it

 

[VMWang]

It's conceivable that it's a neighborhood power issue, but I'm not buying it. Easy to check, though. Use a multimeter to measure the voltage drop when charging kicks in, yo.

I'm still thinking a software setting issue. Is a schedule for timed charging on? A schedule for preconditioning? In the In Control app and in the car? Disable all of these if they're on and see if the behavior persists.

Good idea, I’ll check the voltage as charging kicks in a see if there’s any variance. Assuming I can use a multimeter in any outlet in the house, I don’t have to check the outlet the charger is plugged into right?

All the settings are now set to immediate charge. No preconditioning set and no max battery level or anything

 

[Snowflake]

I'd think that the closer you are to the circuit, the more easily you'll see the drop, and if it's a dramatic enough drop to turn off charging, you should see it widespread.

 

[Proxy]

I would guess voltage sag in your neighborhood. I did say successful charging at lower amps would be more evidence. I did about 20 plug and unplug cycles to get the following information: I put my clamp on multimeter on the wires inside my home’s electrical panel connected to my EVSE. When I plug in my Rivian it takes about 14 seconds to reach full amps. The I-pace takes about 9 seconds. Both read less than one amp for a few seconds, jump quickly to about 1/3 current then ramp up from there. The meter’s last two readings before full amps was very different. The Rivian’s last two readings are final amps minus 2-3 amps then minus 1-2 amps. The I-pace’s last two readings were final minus 10-12 amps then minus 5-7 amps. So the Jaguar profile is much more aggressive and could increase the chances of voltage sag issues. Also, I’m not sure if the I-pace has tighter tolerances than other vehicle brands and could explain why you have this problem in your neighborhood but others don’t. Even when you see 246 volts at the plug without anything plugged in doesn’t mean it stays high when a load is applied.

Note, the following exposures the participants to shock hazard: If you or a friend have the knowledge, skills and tools you could monitor the voltage at the circuit breaker while the other person plugs in the car. You could compare your results to mine. No need for a clamp on ammeter.

When my Rivian is plugged in I slowly loose 1.7 volts with a digital multimeter. The Jag shows a 1.8 volt loss for an instant before going to a steady 1.7 volt loss. I can barely see the analog multimeter move. I have very high quality power in my neighborhood and the wiring to my home and EVSE are higher gauge than required and have short runs.

 

[Snowflake]

If there are voltage drops, you should notice lights dimming temporarily when big devices, like AC, come online.

 

[Samantha E]

I purchased a new 2023 hse in December and have had trouble charging at my L2 charger at home (tried at 2 neighbors as well). The issue seems to primarily occur at night, and usually works fine during the day. Looking for some advice since the dealer tells me everything is fine with my car now since it charges fine there. When I plug in during evening hours, the charger turns on and my car and remote app show “charging”. After 2 minutes, i hear a second click from the charger and the chargepoint app shows only 0.001kw transferred. If i leave it plugged in, the car and remote app will continue showing “charging” but no current is actually being transferred to the battery. If adjust the amperage from 40A to 30 or 20, the car and remote app will show an updated charging speed but again no current is actually going to the battery. I assume the outlet is wired correctly, the charger is operating correctly, the car is reading the initial input of current, but the current is not going into the battery. Typically, during the day time hours, the car charges fine.

Things I’ve tried:

• L1 home, L2 public and L3 public chargers work fine
• switched two different brands of home chargers (have ChargePoint now)
• electrician inspected 240v outlet and voltage is constant and functioning properly
• my neighbors BMW charged fine at my L2
• tried setting timed charge or immediate charge
• jaguar replaced the BCCM

Any suggestions would be appreciated, I am at my wits end. Thank you

I'm having a very similar issue, were you able to get this fixed?

 

[Denver Alex]

It's not voltage sag...
I'm in the US. For well over year, I lived with hit and miss charging on my 48A level 2 charger (ChargePoint) with my 2023 model. The symptom was plug it in, car thinks it is initiating a charge and detects available current level, and says its charging. But it never draws current. Charger's relay clicks off stopping charge session, but car still thinks its being charged. The Jaguar supplied level 1 charger always worked. I replaced the charger under warranty, but same problem. So, it must be the car. Dealer never figured it out (until recently). Trying to solve it, they replaced the receptacle and bccm over a 3 week period, and then gave it back with traction battery fault (72% max charge, when it would charge). They indicated they needed to replace battery modules. Eventually after another couple months in the Shop, I got it home with the traction battery charging to 100%, but the original problem remained - hit and miss chance the car will initiate drawing current (mostly miss). I bought a 48A DeWalt charger, yes they make an EV charger, because it displays on the unit real time current and voltage plus it has diagnostic error codes - something other brands don't. I suspected maybe my home 240V service was fluctuating and not delivering the necessary voltage. The charger proved otherwise as I averaged between 241 and 248V. When my car failed to charge, a neighbor immediately hooked up his and it charged fine, then back to mine and it failed to draw current. So, clearly it is not the chargers, not my electric service, and is the car. I engaged with the dealer once more, and they suggested a buck / boost transformer which I assumed would be configured to boost the service higher by ~10%. When the electrician came to install, he actually bucked it down 10% to about 217V give or take as my service fluctuates. He said it's a common problem with the I-Pace. Who knew? Since then, no problems. It's been a month, and it charges each time. Granted, I don't get the full kW my circuit's amperage could deliver, but its still pretty high and easily charges from 20% to 100% in a night. Once you've lived with level 1, it feels like luxury. Finally, we get to enjoy a great car. So, my point of this story is that your charging issues might not be the car (solely), but rather could be fluctuations in your electric service with the occasional spike in voltage. Apparently the I-Pace is a bit finicky and doesn't handle level 2 AC voltages above a certain level very well. If the dealer just knew this, they could have saved themselves and me a lot if heartache, frustration, and money. I hope this helps some other struggling person.

 

[Dave B.]

It's not voltage sag...
I'm in the US. For well over year, I lived with hit and miss charging on my 48A level 2 charger (ChargePoint) with my 2023 model. The symptom was plug it in, car thinks it is initiating a charge and detects available current level, and says its charging. But it never draws current. Charger's relay clicks off stopping charge session, but car still thinks its being charged. The Jaguar supplied level 1 charger always worked. I replaced the charger under warranty, but same problem. So, it must be the car. Dealer never figured it out (until recently). Trying to solve it, they replaced the receptacle and bccm over a 3 week period, and then gave it back with traction battery fault (72% max charge, when it would charge). They indicated they needed to replace battery modules. Eventually after another couple months in the Shop, I got it home with the traction battery charging to 100%, but the original problem remained - hit and miss chance the car will initiate drawing current (mostly miss). I bought a 48A DeWalt charger, yes they make an EV charger, because it displays on the unit real time current and voltage plus it has diagnostic error codes - something other brands don't. I suspected maybe my home 240V service was fluctuating and not delivering the necessary voltage. The charger proved otherwise as I averaged between 241 and 248V. When my car failed to charge, a neighbor immediately hooked up his and it charged fine, then back to mine and it failed to draw current. So, clearly it is not the chargers, not my electric service, and is the car. I engaged with the dealer once more, and they suggested a buck / boost transformer which I assumed would be configured to boost the service higher by ~10%. When the electrician came to install, he actually bucked it down 10% to about 217V give or take as my service fluctuates. He said it's a common problem with the I-Pace. Who knew? Since then, no problems. It's been a month, and it charges each time. Granted, I don't get the full kW my circuit's amperage could deliver, but its still pretty high and easily charges from 20% to 100% in a night. Once you've lived with level 1, it feels like luxury. Finally, we get to enjoy a great car. So, my point of this story is that your charging issues might not be the car (solely), but rather could be fluctuations in your electric service with the occasional spike in voltage. Apparently the I-Pace is a bit finicky and doesn't handle level 2 AC voltages above a certain level very well. If the dealer just knew this, they could have saved themselves and me a lot if heartache, frustration, and money. I hope this helps some other struggling person.

Has your vehicle continued to charge consistently? Mines still at the dealers and I don't think they have any solutions in sight.

 

[Ayepace]

It's not voltage sag...
I'm in the US. For well over year, I lived with hit and miss charging on my 48A level 2 charger (ChargePoint) with my 2023 model. The symptom was plug it in, car thinks it is initiating a charge and detects available current level, and says its charging. But it never draws current. Charger's relay clicks off stopping charge session, but car still thinks its being charged. The Jaguar supplied level 1 charger always worked. I replaced the charger under warranty, but same problem. So, it must be the car. Dealer never figured it out (until recently). Trying to solve it, they replaced the receptacle and bccm over a 3 week period, and then gave it back with traction battery fault (72% max charge, when it would charge). They indicated they needed to replace battery modules. Eventually after another couple months in the Shop, I got it home with the traction battery charging to 100%, but the original problem remained - hit and miss chance the car will initiate drawing current (mostly miss). I bought a 48A DeWalt charger, yes they make an EV charger, because it displays on the unit real time current and voltage plus it has diagnostic error codes - something other brands don't. I suspected maybe my home 240V service was fluctuating and not delivering the necessary voltage. The charger proved otherwise as I averaged between 241 and 248V. When my car failed to charge, a neighbor immediately hooked up his and it charged fine, then back to mine and it failed to draw current. So, clearly it is not the chargers, not my electric service, and is the car. I engaged with the dealer once more, and they suggested a buck / boost transformer which I assumed would be configured to boost the service higher by ~10%. When the electrician came to install, he actually bucked it down 10% to about 217V give or take as my service fluctuates. He said it's a common problem with the I-Pace. Who knew? Since then, no problems. It's been a month, and it charges each time. Granted, I don't get the full kW my circuit's amperage could deliver, but its still pretty high and easily charges from 20% to 100% in a night. Once you've lived with level 1, it feels like luxury. Finally, we get to enjoy a great car. So, my point of this story is that your charging issues might not be the car (solely), but rather could be fluctuations in your electric service with the occasional spike in voltage. Apparently the I-Pace is a bit finicky and doesn't handle level 2 AC voltages above a certain level very well. If the dealer just knew this, they could have saved themselves and me a lot if heartache, frustration, and money. I hope this helps some other struggling person.

I haven't been able to use my ChargePoint Home Flex since the firmware (version 5.5.4.14) ChargePoint pushed out to it at the end of March. Car charges fine on other brands and even a ChargePoint 6.6 kW charger in a parking lot. ChargePoint needs to figure out what they broke. Fortunately, most of my charging has been with an older, now unsupported Juicebox 40 Pro.

 

[Denver Alex]

Has your vehicle continued to charge consistently? Mines still at the dealers and I don't think they have any solutions in sight.

Yes. It has been another month, and my 2023 i-Pace has continued to charge successfully exactly as it should each and every time. It makes some sense that such a problem exists, although I think it could have been avoided like every other manufacturer seems to have done. The vehicle is a UK engineered vehicle, and the electrical service in the UK is 230V as I understand it. It seems they built in some allowance for a variance in voltage to go up to 240V, but just barely (in my experience). If you use a transformer to buck the service down to around 230V or below you will get it to charge each time. Well, that has been my experience, and I wish somebody told me this 2 years ago.

 

[Denver Alex]

I haven't been able to use my ChargePoint Home Flex since the firmware (version 5.5.4.14) ChargePoint pushed out to it at the end of March. Car charges fine on other brands and even a ChargePoint 6.6 kW charger in a parking lot. ChargePoint needs to figure out what they broke. Fortunately, most of my charging has been with an older, now unsupported Juicebox 40 Pro.

Hi Ayepace - Could it be coincidental that the firmware release coincided roughly with failures to charge? I ask because my Homeflex is running 5.5.4.14 since April 5, 2025. I notice no problems. I didn't even realize the firmware was updated. Could it be your electric service just happened to adjust to be over 240v at about the same time? I suggest this because I too could charge at other L2 chargers, but not at home (most of the time). Not at home with Homeflex, and not at home using another 48A charger brand (as I described in my 1st post). Of course if you replaced the Homeflex with your Juicebox, connected to the same circuit, and it works on the Juicebox and not the Homeflex, then clearly that points to the Homeflex charger. But if the Juicebox is on another service circuit elsewhere than the Homeflex, then maybe it is the service voltage being too high. I never even considered too high a voltage as a possible problem until I brought it down and all my problems went away. It's something to consider.

In case anyone reading this is wondering if I tried using less amperage, I did. Both the Homeflex and the DeWalt allow the charger to be configured to limit the max amperage it will supply, mostly to support the max that the its branch circuit is designed for, but in my case, I was desperate for a resolution, and I tried every amperage level down to the lowest (on both brands of charger). My theory was that maybe the amperage and ambient temperature was causing a vehicle heat sensor to stop drawing current. That wasn't it, as I now know.

 

[Ayepace]

Yes it is something with the Home Flex unit. I cannot determine if hardware or firmware.
It has been tried plugged in to 2 different 240V sockets. It used to work in both sockets.

Home has always had 230-250V (combined voltage of each "side") with a brief time of 260V+ several years ago. That incident set off alarms on UPS equipment and I notified the utility company. They promptly came out and fixed something somewhere to bring it back down to expectations. Nothing like this has occurred since.

The Juicebox app used to give more information. It showed if voltage was at high end of the range then the car accepted less amps, and increased amps at lower end of voltage range to maintain the 7.6kW rate.

 

[shanec2779]

I have had the same problems charging my 2024 I Pace. It charges during the day just fine only after putting in a buck booster. In the evening it still won't charge. Jaguar replaced something last week in hopes that it would help. It still won't charge in the evenings. I had a tesla during this same time and it charges morning, noon and night. So, I still believe it's the car and not the charger or current into the community. I need to get back with Jaguar and see if they have any other thoughts, this all happened in the last week. The EV Tech came to my house between 4-5:30 and it worked fine. He said if I experience the same problems going forward the engineering team could come out with their equipment to diagnose. I love the car in every other way but the charging system is a problem.

 

[Dave B.]

Yes. It has been another month, and my 2023 i-Pace has continued to charge successfully exactly as it should each and every time. It makes some sense that such a problem exists, although I think it could have been avoided like every other manufacturer seems to have done. The vehicle is a UK engineered vehicle, and the electrical service in the UK is 230V as I understand it. It seems they built in some allowance for a variance in voltage to go up to 240V, but just barely (in my experience). If you use a transformer to buck the service down to around 230V or below you will get it to charge each time. Well, that has been my experience, and I wish somebody told me this 2 years ago.

My 2019 continues to be finicky with the charging. It will charge successfully on my L2 Wallbox at any time of day or night for a few weeks and then it will revert back to the cycle of starting to charge and then quickly clicking off, regardless of the time of day or charge level (from 40 to 10 Amps). Other EV's have no issue charging on our unit. I am wondering if the buck-boost transformer tactic has continued to work? If so, what make and model of transformer are you using? Based on my own experience and the many postings on this forum I do not believe the issue has anything to do with the charger. I now think the issue has to be the iPace's inability to deal with inconsistency with the incoming voltages. Having siad that, I still wonder why it is so cyclical, working fine for weeks and then reverting back to nonfunctional?

 

[Time2Roll]

Having siad that, I still wonder why it is so cyclical, working fine for weeks and then reverting back to nonfunctional?

Need a voltmeter to monitor.

My Tesla home solar periodically goes off grid due to power fluctuations. My area seems to have random issues too.

 

[Denver Alex]

My 2019 continues to be finicky with the charging. It will charge successfully on my L2 Wallbox at any time of day or night for a few weeks and then it will revert back to the cycle of starting to charge and then quickly clicking off, regardless of the time of day or charge level (from 40 to 10 Amps). Other EV's have no issue charging on our unit. I am wondering if the buck-boost transformer tactic has continued to work? If so, what make and model of transformer are you using? Based on my own experience and the many postings on this forum I do not believe the issue has anything to do with the charger. I now think the issue has to be the iPace's inability to deal with inconsistency with the incoming voltages. Having siad that, I still wonder why it is so cyclical, working fine for weeks and then reverting back to nonfunctional?

Hi Dave. It looks like your last post was from August 22. That's only a couple weeks ago. I'm so glad you didn't give up on your I-Pace. I know you've been struggling with this since at least June.

Yes, the buck transformer has continued to work. In all this time (maybe 4 or 5 months now), I have never had a problem. It initiates and continues a charging session until the end each and every time. It is 100% reliable. Keep in mind that this is stark contrast to the unreliable experience I described in previous posts.

I can only relate my past experience to explain what I think is the issue. My electrical service would vary in its voltage. I used a charger for a while, as I mentioned, the DeWalt charger, which displayed the voltage being received. That's how I eventually figured out it is a voltage issue. I cannot say what internal logic the I-Pace uses to decide when it is too high. I imagine determining that value is a bit of a heuristic (fuzzy logic), and it likely gets tweaked in those software updates we occasionally get delivered over the WiFi.

In another post from you back in June on a different thread, I supplied all the info you had requested, but just for completeness in this thread, here is the transformer that was used:

I understand your local dealership and electrician might be skeptical that a reduction in voltage is needed. I can only tell you this is what my dealership suggested to this apparently common problem, and the electrician said they "do it all the time" for Jaguar I-Pace vehicles. It has worked for me, like I said, as a 100% effective cure to the problem. My ChargePoint Home Flex works like a champ each and every time. Now, it does charge a bit more slowly delivering 7 to 8KW as opposed to the 10 to 11KW I used to get before the transformer, but I'll take it. If I get it going early enough, I can still charge from like 20% to full during the night (image below). Granted, I rarely let it get that low before I recharge. The below image makes it look like it ended at 10:50am, but that's a 5-hour interval in that chart and it ended about 3 fifths the way through, which indicates it ending at ~8:50am. So, that's 13 hours to go from well below 20% (probably about 13%) to full charge. If you're like me, you'll be happy with that if it means you know it will actually charge each time you plug it in. <smile>

I wish the ChargePoint Home Flex charger would terminate a charging session when it has gone to zero for a particular length of time, like 5 minutes. I guess the idea is it will still trickle in a charge as needed to keep it topped off, but I really liked the way the DeWalt charger ended it, and we had accurate historical data of actual charging time delivered. But it didn't have the nice graph of actual session power delivery over time the way the ChargePoint app does, which I really do want. Maybe I should suggest to ChargePoint they make it an option to toggle the trickle charge or just end it.

I hope this helps you.

 

[Dave B.]

Alex,
Many thanks for your thorough reply. I am very happy to hear that your solution has proven to be 100% effective. After another 10 day lapse my car has once again been charging consistently at 32 Amps (roughly 6.4 kwh). On a full charge I am reading 455 km range (roughly 280 miles) and my Wallbox unit does shutdown once the vehicle reaches 100% (there is no trickle). If I run into any more issues I am going to immediately pursue the buck-boost tactic as my plan is to retain the iPace for at least 4 years with the expectation that the battery technologies will have significantly advanced by then providing significantly longer range, faster charging and lower weight in the next gen EV's.

 

[Proxy]

The image @Denver Alex posted shows a 1.5KVa unit. It seems like that wouldn’t be rated high enough for level 2 charging.