You're not the first person to have an issue with Chargepoint. Make sure it's up to date on firmware. Turn it off and on at the breaker then try again.

Me? I'm a fan of dumb chargers.

 

You're not the first person to have an issue with Chargepoint. Make sure it's up to date on firmware. Turn it off and on at the breaker then try again. Me? I'm a fan of dumb chargers.

My other charger was Emporia and I had the same experience. I will try a basic L2 charger and see what happens. My concern is that one of my neighbors had a basic travel L2 charger and my car did not charge on that either

 

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Inspect for any debris. Go through all the settings in your car, for timed charging and similar. Same in any apps connected to your car. Are you the original owner? Is there a setting from a previous owner's Jaguar In Control app that is still affecting your car?

 

I’m the first owner and all the settings across all the apps match (no schedule). I toggled through all the settings as well.

 

Set the charger to deliver 30A max via the app before connecting to the car. Does the problem still happen?
If so, press the button in the port to stop charging from car perspective, disconnect the cable, reduce the charger to 20A and try again. Does it still happen?

What amperage rating does the circuit breaker have? It should be at least 50A if you set the charger to 40A max. Is it a ground fault or arc fault breaker? Replace with standard circuit breaker and try again. ChargePoint chargers have their own ground fault detection and don't like being connected to other than a dumb circuit breaker. Verify good tight connections to the breaker, ground and neutral. If possible to do safely for testing purposes if not resolved at this point, shift the breaker up/down a single breaker position.

Electrical supply voltage to the home can vary throughout the day. You would need to monitor both legs of the input to determine if one or both are momentarily dropping below acceptable limits. This might cause the charger to behave unexpectedly.

What state of charge is the charging session starting at?

 

I can try adjusting the amperage as you suggested when I get home from work this evening and report back. The breaker is a 50A breaker. Not sure what type it is, I included a picture of it I took a few days ago. State of charge varies anywhere from 10%-90% when I’ve tried, I haven’t picked up any patterns

 

Not GFCI or arc fault. This is good.

 

Just to be clear, the car charges fine with any of these chargers during the da, but seems to fail at night?

 

Correct. The car will pretty much charge on anything during the day. I’ve had a handful of incidents where it wouldn’t charge in the morning (but almost always works fine) at home and I’ve had a handful of times (including tonight) where it successfully charged at my L2 at home. It also always charges fine regardless of time on the L1 trickle charger and at any DC fast charger. The issue is basically just L2 (home and at neighbors) at night

 

Signs point to the voltage in your neighborhood being out of tolerance at night. I would recommend checking the voltage during the day and night.

 

That was my initial conclusion too but my neighbors charge their EVs just fine, and one of them charged at my house fine too. And I don’t have any other appliance or electronic issues at night. Also, one evening when my I-pace would not charge, I checked my 240V outlet 3 times and each time it read 246V. I had my power company check my home electrical meter and it tested correctly too. I know nothing about electrical, but I had ruled out unstable power grid for those reasons. Perhaps I’m missing something or wrong to rule it out?

 

If possible read the voltage while the vehicle is attempting to charge. It could be low voltage. The info about the 120 volt charging points to this. More evidence would be successful charging at lower amps.

 

I have a 2019 iPace and a ChargePoint installed at home. This happens to me when there is 1) the departure time set in the Jaguar remote app for the next morning and 2) more hours available than required to fully charge the battery prior to that departure time. I.e. not a full charge. in such a case, the Car will not start charging until closer to the departure time. If you leave this plugged in, it should be fully charged when you wake up and your departure time arises!

 

I’ve tried leaving it in overnight before and it did not charge. After 2 minutes of being plugged in, my charge “clicks” - presumably closing the relay since it realizes current is not flowing out. I do not believe it will re-open the relay once it closes. I’m currently swapping my I-pace with my business partner’s Mach-E for a day. I plan to try my I-pace on her home charger to see if it works. Then I’ll take the Mach-E to my house and see if it charges. If it works and mine still does not, I’ll post an update here. Next on my list to try is the different amperages as suggested. This forum has been most helpful so far, I very much appreciate everyone brainstorming with me!

 

Update: I-pace charged at my partner’s house without issue. We decided not to swap vehicles yet and to try taking the Mach-E charger to my house and trying it there. When I got to my house at 10:30p and plugged into my ChargePoint, it charged without issue so I did not try the Mach-E charger. The following night, I tried charging at home with my ChargePoint and it did not work. I lowered the amps from 40 to 30 to 20 (disconnected the plug from my car each time before changing amps) and it would not work. Finally at 10A, it began charging. From there, without disconnecting the plug, I increased it back to 40A and it proceeded to continue charging without issue. This seems to confirm that my issue is voltage instability at home?

 

Go into CP app, Home, Settings, About Charger and check software version and last contacted dare and time. The date and time should be fairly recent, especially since changes in the app get applied to it. Version on my Home Flex is 5.5.4.8. How does that compare to yours? It should be the same if you have the same type of charger.

Did changing the amps reflect in changes to charging? You'd see it in the CP graph.

It definitely seems like a problem with the charger or its electrical supply. I'd start with replacing the circuit breaker.

 

Mine says update March 9 2024. Its version 5.5.4.4. It’s a home flex also, weird that it’s 4 updates behind yours.

Yes, changing the amps was reflected in kWh as well as the graph in the app. I’m almost certain it’s the electrical supply at this point, I don’t think it’s the charger because I’ve had the same issue with 2 chargers at my house and as well as 2 chargers at my neighbors. Must suspicion is with the power supply for the neighborhood but I just don’t understand why no other appliances in my house have problems and why my neighbors charge their EVs just fine

 

Unless you feel you can safely do this, have an electrician check the connections at the outlet and the circuit breaker to ensure they are secure. Turn off the breaker to do this. A loose connection can be affected as the current flows and causes heat over time.

Other appliances may not be as sensitive as the electronic monitoring in a charger.

 

It's conceivable that it's a neighborhood power issue, but I'm not buying it. Easy to check, though. Use a multimeter to measure the voltage drop when charging kicks in, yo.

I'm still thinking a software setting issue. Is a schedule for timed charging on? A schedule for preconditioning? In the In Control app and in the car? Disable all of these if they're on and see if the behavior persists.

 

Good idea, I’ll check the voltage as charging kicks in a see if there’s any variance. Assuming I can use a multimeter in any outlet in the house, I don’t have to check the outlet the charger is plugged into right?

All the settings are now set to immediate charge. No preconditioning set and no max battery level or anything

 

I’ll have an electrician check the connections. I wouldn’t know what I’m looking at myself. I’ve never seen the charger actually indicate there was something wrong - it’s never had a red circle. I had an electrician check the outlet before and he said it was fine but I’ll have a different one inspect it

 

I'd think that the closer you are to the circuit, the more easily you'll see the drop, and if it's a dramatic enough drop to turn off charging, you should see it widespread.

 

I would guess voltage sag in your neighborhood. I did say successful charging at lower amps would be more evidence. I did about 20 plug and unplug cycles to get the following information: I put my clamp on multimeter on the wires inside my home’s electrical panel connected to my EVSE. When I plug in my Rivian it takes about 14 seconds to reach full amps. The I-pace takes about 9 seconds. Both read less than one amp for a few seconds, jump quickly to about 1/3 current then ramp up from there. The meter’s last two readings before full amps was very different. The Rivian’s last two readings are final amps minus 2-3 amps then minus 1-2 amps. The I-pace’s last two readings were final minus 10-12 amps then minus 5-7 amps. So the Jaguar profile is much more aggressive and could increase the chances of voltage sag issues. Also, I’m not sure if the I-pace has tighter tolerances than other vehicle brands and could explain why you have this problem in your neighborhood but others don’t. Even when you see 246 volts at the plug without anything plugged in doesn’t mean it stays high when a load is applied.

Note, the following exposures the participants to shock hazard: If you or a friend have the knowledge, skills and tools you could monitor the voltage at the circuit breaker while the other person plugs in the car. You could compare your results to mine. No need for a clamp on ammeter.

When my Rivian is plugged in I slowly loose 1.7 volts with a digital multimeter. The Jag shows a 1.8 volt loss for an instant before going to a steady 1.7 volt loss. I can barely see the analog multimeter move. I have very high quality power in my neighborhood and the wiring to my home and EVSE are higher gauge than required and have short runs.

 

If there are voltage drops, you should notice lights dimming temporarily when big devices, like AC, come online.

 

I'm having a very similar issue, were you able to get this fixed?

 

It's not voltage sag...
I'm in the US. For well over year, I lived with hit and miss charging on my 48A level 2 charger (ChargePoint) with my 2023 model. The symptom was plug it in, car thinks it is initiating a charge and detects available current level, and says its charging. But it never draws current. Charger's relay clicks off stopping charge session, but car still thinks its being charged. The Jaguar supplied level 1 charger always worked. I replaced the charger under warranty, but same problem. So, it must be the car. Dealer never figured it out (until recently). Trying to solve it, they replaced the receptacle and bccm over a 3 week period, and then gave it back with traction battery fault (72% max charge, when it would charge). They indicated they needed to replace battery modules. Eventually after another couple months in the Shop, I got it home with the traction battery charging to 100%, but the original problem remained - hit and miss chance the car will initiate drawing current (mostly miss). I bought a 48A DeWalt charger, yes they make an EV charger, because it displays on the unit real time current and voltage plus it has diagnostic error codes - something other brands don't. I suspected maybe my home 240V service was fluctuating and not delivering the necessary voltage. The charger proved otherwise as I averaged between 241 and 248V. When my car failed to charge, a neighbor immediately hooked up his and it charged fine, then back to mine and it failed to draw current. So, clearly it is not the chargers, not my electric service, and is the car. I engaged with the dealer once more, and they suggested a buck / boost transformer which I assumed would be configured to boost the service higher by ~10%. When the electrician came to install, he actually bucked it down 10% to about 217V give or take as my service fluctuates. He said it's a common problem with the I-Pace. Who knew? Since then, no problems. It's been a month, and it charges each time. Granted, I don't get the full kW my circuit's amperage could deliver, but its still pretty high and easily charges from 20% to 100% in a night. Once you've lived with level 1, it feels like luxury. Finally, we get to enjoy a great car. So, my point of this story is that your charging issues might not be the car (solely), but rather could be fluctuations in your electric service with the occasional spike in voltage. Apparently the I-Pace is a bit finicky and doesn't handle level 2 AC voltages above a certain level very well. If the dealer just knew this, they could have saved themselves and me a lot if heartache, frustration, and money. I hope this helps some other struggling person.

 

Has your vehicle continued to charge consistently? Mines still at the dealers and I don't think they have any solutions in sight.

 

Yes. It has been another month, and my 2023 i-Pace has continued to charge successfully exactly as it should each and every time. It makes some sense that such a problem exists, although I think it could have been avoided like every other manufacturer seems to have done. The vehicle is a UK engineered vehicle, and the electrical service in the UK is 230V as I understand it. It seems they built in some allowance for a variance in voltage to go up to 240V, but just barely (in my experience). If you use a transformer to buck the service down to around 230V or below you will get it to charge each time. Well, that has been my experience, and I wish somebody told me this 2 years ago.

 

Yes. It has been another month, and my 2023 i-Pace has continued to charge successfully exactly as it should each and every time. It makes some sense that such a problem exists, although I think it could have been avoided like every other manufacturer seems to have done. The vehicle is a UK engineered vehicle, and the electrical service in the UK is 230V as I understand it. It seems they built in some allowance for a variance in voltage to go up to 240V, but just barely (in my experience). If you use a transformer to buck the service down to around 230V or below you will get it to charge each time. Well, that has been my experience, and I wish somebody told me this 2 years ago.

My 2019 continues to be finicky with the charging. It will charge successfully on my L2 Wallbox at any time of day or night for a few weeks and then it will revert back to the cycle of starting to charge and then quickly clicking off, regardless of the time of day or charge level (from 40 to 10 Amps). Other EV's have no issue charging on our unit. I am wondering if the buck-boost transformer tactic has continued to work? If so, what make and model of transformer are you using? Based on my own experience and the many postings on this forum I do not believe the issue has anything to do with the charger. I now think the issue has to be the iPace's inability to deal with inconsistency with the incoming voltages. Having siad that, I still wonder why it is so cyclical, working fine for weeks and then reverting back to nonfunctional?

 

Yes it is something with the Home Flex unit. I cannot determine if hardware or firmware.
It has been tried plugged in to 2 different 240V sockets. It used to work in both sockets.

Home has always had 230-250V (combined voltage of each "side") with a brief time of 260V+ several years ago. That incident set off alarms on UPS equipment and I notified the utility company. They promptly came out and fixed something somewhere to bring it back down to expectations. Nothing like this has occurred since.

The Juicebox app used to give more information. It showed if voltage was at high end of the range then the car accepted less amps, and increased amps at lower end of voltage range to maintain the 7.6kW rate.

 

I have had the same problems charging my 2024 I Pace. It charges during the day just fine only after putting in a buck booster. In the evening it still won't charge. Jaguar replaced something last week in hopes that it would help. It still won't charge in the evenings. I had a tesla during this same time and it charges morning, noon and night. So, I still believe it's the car and not the charger or current into the community. I need to get back with Jaguar and see if they have any other thoughts, this all happened in the last week. The EV Tech came to my house between 4-5:30 and it worked fine. He said if I experience the same problems going forward the engineering team could come out with their equipment to diagnose. I love the car in every other way but the charging system is a problem.

 

Alex,
Many thanks for your thorough reply. I am very happy to hear that your solution has proven to be 100% effective. After another 10 day lapse my car has once again been charging consistently at 32 Amps (roughly 6.4 kwh). On a full charge I am reading 455 km range (roughly 280 miles) and my Wallbox unit does shutdown once the vehicle reaches 100% (there is no trickle). If I run into any more issues I am going to immediately pursue the buck-boost tactic as my plan is to retain the iPace for at least 4 years with the expectation that the battery technologies will have significantly advanced by then providing significantly longer range, faster charging and lower weight in the next gen EV's.