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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone experienced this issue with their Car. My I Pace stopped charging up to 240 miles and now only charges to 201 miles, and says fully charged. We have contacted the dealer, and drop the car off for about a week and still couldn’t get it fixed. Anyone else having the same issue and any fixes for this yet?
 

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Yes, it's a software issue some people here have experienced. It's unlikely that it has anything to do with the actual battery capacity. The estimated mileage reported by the car is only a prediction, which can be wildly off. I would start asking the dealer very specific questions such as "what exactly are you doing to try to fix this". "Have you updated to the latest software?" "Is JLR responsive to your queries?"

Also, if you're on Android, download WattCat (use your InControl credentials, same as JRL's "Remote" app) and look at the Alerts so you see if they're actually working on it.
 

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Those numbers are fairly "magic" numbers that are commonly seen. When I first got the car it was reporting 240 (242?) miles, but eventually it changed to 201 miles. Since the August software update at the dealer (H228 I think?), it always reports 282 miles after a charge now.

The whole time it has only gotten around 200-215 miles or so of range regardless of the initial estimates, at least with my typical driving routes and behavior (less under some long-distance high-speed trips)... so the estimates reported after a full charge don't really seem to mean much. Of course that is with AC etc in the Texas summer heat. I'm curious to see what I get tomorrow for a longer drive I need to take with the temperatures in the 30s.
 

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Yes, the GoM (Guess-O-Meter) is far from perfect. Infotainment version S_19A (which I'm guessing you're on) has been well known to reset to 201 or 282, depending on certain factors. Mine was resetting to 282 for a while... making me feel good and impressing some passengers, but I knew better. It is currently (as in your case) resetting to a range of 201 miles. Your "real" range hasn't changed, it will still fall between 190 (lots of freeway miles at 75+) and 240 (mainly city driving). I hit the freeway 'hard' on Monday with a 190 mile round trip at 75mph+ Left with range of 201, drove 191 ACTUAL miles and had 8 miles of range left (which I considered pretty good since I drove fast, used heavy AC in 90-degree weather). However I did, of course, use Eco mode. If I didn't know my car well, I would have freaked out at 97 miles to go and just 90 miles of range, but I just kept speed at 75 (instead of 80+) to avoid the heavy degradation of range that occurs at higher speeds. I had a backup plan to stop short of destination for charge if needed, but as I got within 25 miles my range exceeded my remaining distance by 5-10 mi. Cutting it close can be unnerving until you do it a couple times to understand how the car will perform. You also have "low power mode" which boosts range 20-40% (eg, from 30 mi to 45 mi) in an emergency. Not recommended until you've built up your 'range anxiety' muscles., though.. ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for getting back to me real fast. The dealer did take it back from her since the software update but were unsuccessful in getting it fixed. Dealer is pretty responsive to our request and concerns and is working on getting a fix, Said they are aware of the issue. Waiting on the engineers from JLR to send the new update
 

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A GOM reset procedure (until it re-adapts itself) is:

Minimum Tools required:
Recognized key fob on driver
Two feet on driver
One usable finger on driver
One functioning eye on driver

Procedure:
  • Unlock car (if needed)
  • Open driver door
  • Have a seat in the driver seat
  • Close door
  • Push power button 1 time
  • Wait for car to be powered up
  • Clear any prompts for "OK"
  • Put one foot on stop pedal
  • Put other foot on go pedal
  • Use feet to press pedals down simultaneously and remain down for at least 10 seconds
  • Use eye to observe when GOM changes
  • Remove both feet from pedals
  • Use finger to press the power button
  • Use finger to open driver door using inside door release handle
  • Exit from the driver seat
  • Close door
 

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I was told that the miles are only an estimate based on recent driving history and that if it ever fully charges below 200 miles to take it in for service. I've stopped worrying about the inconsistency in the miles estimate and pay more attention to % of charge remaining.
 

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After my I-pace had the H228 update my SOC/GOM resulted in the 201 miles after a 100% charge. Prior to the update for the first 6 months of ownership it always reset to 234 mi + or - based on my current driving style, temperature, etc. After exactly 60 days and exactly 1300 miles after the H228 update my SOC/GOM is now reading 234 mi + or - after a 100% charge. As indicated by a few it does finally get back to a more normal reading without doing anything but driving and allowing time to pass.
 

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A GOM reset procedure (until it re-adapts itself) is:

Minimum Tools required:
Recognized key fob on driver
Two feet on driver
One usable finger on driver
One functioning eye on driver

Procedure:
  • Unlock car (if needed)
  • Open driver door
  • Have a seat in the driver seat
  • Close door
  • Push power button 1 time
  • Wait for car to be powered up
  • Clear any prompts for "OK"
  • Put one foot on stop pedal
  • Put other foot on go pedal
  • Use feet to press pedals down simultaneously and remain down for at least 10 seconds
  • Use eye to observe when GOM changes
  • Remove both feet from pedals
  • Use finger to press the power button
  • Use finger to open driver door using inside door release handle
  • Exit from the driver seat
  • Close door
Which finger?
 

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I have >50,000 miles of BEV driving (Tesla S, 3 and X) in widely varying conditions including high speed European driving and coast-to-coast US three times plus less extensive experience with i3 REX, Leaf and BYD e6 plus now some I-Pace too.
In my opinion every BEV has similar proportional reactions to driving style and weather conditions. Some are better than others in presenting data, but the actual results are, just as with ICE, depended on all those conditions.

First, ignore people who tell you definitely that one is better at prediction than another. Only Tesla offers you the option of charge %, 'ideal' range, expected range (projects depending on current conditions) and 'rated' range which is EPA cycle calculation. Other brands vary. After lots of long distance travel you'll become more knowledgable than any of the range calculations.

Second, for I-Pace. The total user information presented is a trifle minimalistic right now, but with updates coming regularly that will continuously improve. Right now the I-Pace calculator is not yet stable so lots of variances happen. My advice is to ignore those. A dealer typically is clueless to really deal with the issue. Soon, IMHO, we'll see a variety of screen options for our I-Pace that will be the equal of the Tesla ones but less nerd-like. In the meantime referring to state of charge will let us plan rather like we do with the fuel guage in an ICE.

The I-Pace manuals don't say much about day-to-day nor do they make it easy to set a State-of -charge plug in and forget. After five years of BEV driving I have developed the habit of plugging in whenever and wherever I find it. These days in most fo Europe oen passes plentful options all day long. In North America it is not so easy. With an I-Pace I get friendly with Plugshare. I choose hotels and restaurants for their charging availability. Beyond that...

I plan driving of the I_pace for not more than 150 miles before charging, EVER. Regardless of range showing, conditions change. Furtehr stopping every 2 1/2-3 hours leaves teh driver refreshed and ready to go again after a snack and charging. Sadly, thus far we're mostly limited to slower charging so I plan on 2 hour stops. (FWIW, on Tesla Model 3 I plan on a half-hour) The thing all of us must remember is that charging sppeds will improve and Jaguar battery management and software will too, so the future will be much better.

Finally, lest anybody want to quibble with me, I love the I-Pace and also my Tesla Model3. Unless you've lived with a tesla for a long time you won't know the magic of OTA updates. Jaguar knows that and understands it, so we'll see our I-Paces becoming better over time.
With the I-Pace I feel as though I went back to 2013 wit the Tesla Model S. It improved every few months and I grew to love it. The I-Pace will end out like that. The advances in battery management and user displays will be the first major improvements, in my opinion.

With motors and battery pack plus the battery mangement system designed in-house and batteries from LG Chem we have a car designed using a highly refined actively changing performance control system largely influenced by Formula E. We will be seeing big improvements coming now that the operation fleet is large enough to begin learning. Anyway that is what my friends tell me and that is why I decided to buy an I-Pace. Sorry if I have gone too far off-topic.
 

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My new iPACE (June) started off at 201 miles, and never showed 240 (5 months now). Not sure if that matters, because once I get down to, say, 20 miles, the dashboard warns of a low battery. But maybe it is not as low as it seems (had the system started with 240, then getting down to 60 miles, say).
 

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201 miles max, 110 in real line of expressway

mine also allays shows 201 miles when fully charged, that is not my main concern, it is that the 0 range comes quickly as does the baterry indication

it is that after driving 110 miles at 65 average in eco mode the range drop to 0, so does the battery indicator.

hence real range of the car is 110 miles in eco mode at 65 MPH average on cruise control, very disappointing, strange this is that after recharging, fast charger said it added 51 Kwc, yet if battery was really at 0 then surely it should have taken alot more charge?
 

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mine also allays shows 201 miles when fully charged, that is not my main concern, it is that the 0 range comes quickly as does the baterry indication

it is that after driving 110 miles at 65 average in eco mode the range drop to 0, so does the battery indicator.

hence real range of the car is 110 miles in eco mode at 65 MPH average on cruise control, very disappointing, strange this is that after recharging, fast charger said it added 51 Kwc, yet if battery was really at 0 then surely it should have taken alot more charge?
That indicates you have a main battery failure. Document SOC at beginning and end of charge cycle, as well as how much you put into the battery to reach the end state SOC. It will quickly become clear your battery is bad.
 

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Thanks for that imput, since i just got the car 10 days ago, i will ask the dealer if they checked the battery before delivering the car to me. surely they must check such before delivering a new car.
 

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Thanks for that imput, since i just got the car 10 days ago, i will ask the dealer if they checked the battery before delivering the car to me. surely they must check such before delivering a new car.
Your main battery has a problem. Prepare to lose your car for >1 month. See my thread on the subject.
 
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