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thank you. As much as I love the ipace it’s an amazing driving machine, gorgeous in every way but it is the most unreliable $100k car I ever bought. I ordered my Tesla model Y and will get rid of the Ipace. I Be sad to see it go.
I liked it when my Tesla Model Y wouldn't open. Turns out it just needed some time and eventually opened and even, after a while, turned on. Like 20 minutes. Then the entire interior was dead as I drove away once. No AC. No speedo. It eventually turned on for no reason at all. In comparison, sometimes the rear cam doesn't turn on with the Jag.
Autopilot will take me on off road expeditions if I let it have any control. Then it turns off the moment I fight it. The I-Pace system actually lets me correct without shutting down.
Point is, Tesla is a wonderful software company and Jaguar knows nothing about software. Can we close this waste-of-a-time thread down with it's BS title?
 

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2019 Jaguar I-Pace HSE
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It's about the public perception of the car. It isn't a death trap just because your example has had a problem. Show some maturity and describe your experience so others can understand and drop the over-the-top histrionics.
while I have not rxperiences any of the issues of OP, I think the description given is acceptable and silly to be arguing over the title. Especially if driving thru mountain passes with semi’s on your tail. Before purchasing mine, i read many comments here first and demanded all the updates, battery life paperwork, whole nine yards. Knock on wood - no issues.
 

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I have owned a 2019 ipace for a little over two years. By my estimates, the car has spent approximately 2 months (not consecutively) undergoing service. The most severe episodes required the car to be towed to the dealership on three separate occasion. The worst example occurred while driving at full highway speed and the electrical system failed completely. The cause was some auxiliary small battery that died. Two additional times, the car would not drive after shifting in to gear requiring it to be towed (from the middle of traffic on one occasion). The latest example required me to have the car towed where it is with the dealership going on two weeks now, with the no end in site. They have finally decided the problem lies with an energy module but there is no availability for parts. To make matters worse, they force me to pay for my own loaner vehicle while I continue to pay $2000 a month for not driving the car! Jaguar corporate ignores the complaint. The dealership initially lied and said they would help me then never followed up and ignore all emails.

Needless to say this has been the single worst car buying experience in 30 years I’m driving.

Buyer beware.
I am sorry that you have had such a poor experience with your car but what stands out to me is your dealership experience. To that end I have a few questions and a possible solution. (1) did you buy your car new or use? (2) the service center you are going to is it a certified Jag dealership? (3) is your car still in warranty (4) Have you contacted Jaguar corporate with you evidence and concerns? In closing dealerships can fail but the manufacturer have services and systems in place to avoid this such as a loaner car, when owners don’t get these basic services it harms the brand. Contact jag corporate they will solve this! Cheers
 

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so unless you have had the car literally stop working while driving, you don’t have an objective spot to judge. I have had mine fail on me twice while driving and was lucky to be in a spot where I could stop safely.
I have had cars stop working while driving. I suspect every model of every brand of car has had an example stop working while driving. Does that mean that every model of every car brand ever made is a "death trap?" Ridiculous.
 

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MY21 Portofino Blue HSE, Pano Roof, Clearsight Mirror, Air Suspension & AD, Upgraded Cabin Light
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A near death experience is not an example of over-the-top-histrionics. I had one in my IPace!
I am no fan of JLR or issue free with the iPace but User Error is not an example of a product issue.

Unless of course it is a product issue not to engineer out any possibility of driver stupidity.
 

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I think my car may also be a Death Trap...or at least according to my wife. Unfortunately, it's not the car, it's the dumb driver that cannot keep from driving it way too fast :)
 

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I've had mine for 2.5 years, 35,000 miles. Only had it in the shop once for one day to have the 21,000 mile service. And, one other day for new tires. It's been literally the best car I've ever had. Still gets 240 mile range in 70 degree weather.
And, literally 2 days after writing this, I had to be towed from a convenience store because of several faults (Traction Battery, Reduced Brake Feel, & Gearbox fault). Turned out to be a plain old 12 volt battery that had failed after 3 AZ summers - as many 12 volt batteries do here. And, 4 hours later (and at no charge), my perfect car was back.
 

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And, literally 2 days after writing this, I had to be towed from a convenience store because of several faults (Traction Battery, Reduced Brake Feel, & Gearbox fault). Turned out to be a plain old 12 volt battery that had failed after 3 AZ summers - as many 12 volt batteries do here. And, 4 hours later (and at no charge), my perfect car was back.
What is bizarre is that they cannot give a flat battery error. ICE cars can give a flat battery warning why not the iPace?
 

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What is bizarre is that they cannot give a flat battery error. ICE cars can give a flat battery warning why not the iPace?
Agree. I think Teslas will give a warning that its due for replacement though not sure how reliable. How often should we be replacing these to be safe?
 

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I check the 12v battery via one of the 3rd party apps (WattCat or MyPace). The values are not all that accurate, but it does give an indication of trends. For most of this summer, I've been seeing voltages in the low 13s or high 12s. Last year it was in the low 14s or high 13s. I'm also seeing a drop of around .4 volts if I immediately refresh the app followed by the car using the traction battery to charge up the 12v system to around 12.9 volts.

I'll probably replace the 12v battery before next summer just to be safe.
 
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I check the 12v battery via one of the 3rd party apps (WattCat or MyPace). The values are not all that accurate, but it does give an indication of trends. For most of this summer, I've been seeing voltages in the low 13s or high 12s. Last year it was in the low 14s or high 13s. I'm also seeing a drop of around .4 volts if I immediately refresh the app followed by the car using the traction battery to charge up the 12v system to around 12.9 volts.

I'll probably replace the 12v battery before next summer just to be safe.
So how low can the 12v battery go and still power up all the components? I'd hate to replace a good battery, but your attitude seems to be the prudent approach. Perhaps we should all keep a spare charged up and ready to swap in.
 

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On an old school ICE vehicle, test when the car has been sitting for a few hours after driving, and if the battery starts only showing low 12s, it's on its way out.

On the I Pace, I'm following the same guidelines, but it's tricky because the car can charge the 12v battery while it is sitting unattended apparently.
 

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I have owned a 2019 ipace for a little over two years. By my estimates, the car has spent approximately 2 months (not consecutively) undergoing service. The most severe episodes required the car to be towed to the dealership on three separate occasion. The worst example occurred while driving at full highway speed and the electrical system failed completely. The cause was some auxiliary small battery that died. Two additional times, the car would not drive after shifting in to gear requiring it to be towed (from the middle of traffic on one occasion). The latest example required me to have the car towed where it is with the dealership going on two weeks now, with the no end in site. They have finally decided the problem lies with an energy module but there is no availability for parts. To make matters worse, they force me to pay for my own loaner vehicle while I continue to pay $2000 a month for not driving the car! Jaguar corporate ignores the complaint. The dealership initially lied and said they would help me then never followed up and ignore all emails.

Needless to say this has been the single worst car buying experience in 30 years I’m driving.

Buyer beware.
sorry for your experince. But please help explain ur title" deathtrap"
 

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BTW we had the same problem with Tesla Model 3. When the 12v goes this is what happens to all electric cars. And apparently there is no warning.
 
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