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Do you all have a home charger? if so, which one and would you recommend it? We have about 35-40 miles/day commute. In my home state, there are no incentives, so it will all have to come out of my pocket. Thanks in advance.
 

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Do you all have a home charger? if so, which one and would you recommend it? We have about 35-40 miles/day commute. In my home state, there are no incentives, so it will all have to come out of my pocket. Thanks in advance.
Any chance you have an unused 30 amp dryer outlet or some other 240v supply easily available near the vehicle?

Otherwise you are looking at pulling new wire. I generally recommend a simple Clipper Creek unless you a connected device with lots of information to track etc.
 

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I had a generic charging cable but because of the battery issue I sold that and bought the ChargePoint unit used from a friend here on the forum. It's been great. It gives me some peace of mind that I can tell JLR that I used their recommended charger. I haven't used some of the advanced functionalities but basic charging has worked great and the app is pretty good for monitoring and keeping track.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Any chance you have an unused 30 amp dryer outlet or some other 240v supply easily available near the vehicle?

Otherwise you are looking at pulling new wire. I generally recommend a simple Clipper Creek unless you a connected device with lots of information to track etc.
I do not have anything readily available, but I can get it run easily by an electrician. So, is the 220v, Chargepoint is the way to go? Is it possible to use Chargepoint using a regular 110v outlet? If I get 220v wiring done, what Amp. should I shoot for?
 

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I do not have anything readily available, but I can get it run easily by an electrician. So, is the 220v, Chargepoint is the way to go? Is it possible to use Chargepoint using a regular 110v outlet? If I get 220v wiring done, what Amp. should I shoot for?
If you want to reduce the frequency of charging, you will want 220-240V option so that you can comfortably completely charge your car overnight. The 110V option needs over 13 hours to do a complete charge.
The car caps out on Level 2 charger with rates at 7.4Kw, which basically means that you only need an EVSE capable of handling 32amps at 220-240V. I would recommend that you use a dedicated circuit if you are having the wiring done anyway. No harm in putting in a 50 amp breaker. That gives you plenty of headroom and allows you to use the connector for other things, like a nice welding machine.

In terms of EVSE - that's a personal choice and a financial choice. I have a very dumb 40amp EVSE from Mustart that you can get on Amazon. It does not have wifi, delayed charge, time of day settings, or history that you can pull. So if you need and want data, you should look at something smarter - Clipper Creek, Juicebox, or Chargepoint. You will find owners of all three on this forum. Also you do not need a 40 amp or 50 amp EVSE unless you are planning to add other electric vehicles to your fleet that have higher on board chargers.

If you want to be able to take your EVSE with you, I would recommend that you do not go with a Hardwired option. Have a NEMA 14-50 plug put in (you might want to check the EVSE for the plug end it uses) so that you can unplug the EVSE and take it with you to a vacation home, or when you travel. Again, more of a personal decision.
 

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...snip...

In terms of EVSE - that's a personal choice and a financial choice. I have a very dumb 40amp EVSE from Mustart that you can get on Amazon. It does not have wifi, delayed charge, time of day settings, or history that you can pull. So if you need and want data, you should look at something smarter - Clipper Creek, Juicebox, or Chargepoint. You will find owners of all three on this forum. Also you do not need a 40 amp or 50 amp EVSE unless you are planning to add other electric vehicles to your fleet that have higher on board chargers.

...snip...
Are you able to use the delay/time functions of the car with the "dumb" charger? One of the electricians I had out recommended a dumb charger and just set the time/delays in the car.
 

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Are you able to use the delay/time functions of the car with the "dumb" charger? One of the electricians I had out recommended a dumb charger and just set the time/delays in the car.
yes the charger should support whatever the car can do. I haven't done any personal testing with the Mustart as I don't have tiered time of day electrical rates, thus never spent time on it. I think a couple of others have posted that they have Mustart, so perhaps search on Mustart and see if they are using the car features.
 

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Yes, I too recommend the Chargepoint, but my power run from other side of the house was expensive!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
yes the charger should support whatever the car can do. I haven't done any personal testing with the Mustart as I don't have tiered time of day electrical rates, thus never spent time on it. I think a couple of others have posted that they have Mustart, so perhaps search on Mustart and see if they are using the car features.
Thank you for the detailed information. As of now, I do not have tiered electrical rates either, but does JLR care what type of charger I am using or is there something in the warranty agreement that can potentially void warranty?
 

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Any chance you have an unused 30 amp dryer outlet or some other 240v supply easily available near the vehicle?

Otherwise you are looking at pulling new wire. I generally recommend a simple Clipper Creek unless you a connected device with lots of information to track etc.
I do not have anything readily available, but I can get it run easily by an electrician. So, is the 220v, Chargepoint is the way to go? Is it possible to use Chargepoint using a regular 110v outlet? If I get 220v wiring done, what Amp. should I shoot for?
I recommend the ChargePoint 32a that is NOT hardwired. This way it's easy to move it or replace it.
You can specify the length of charging cord you want as well, from 18feet to 25feet.
I chose the 25foot to reach across the garage.

It will need a 6-50 NEMA receptacle.
6 to 8 gauge wire to run the breaker box, 50amp breaker

The ChargePoint connects to wifi so make sure it's in range.

With these level 2 chargers (7.4kw) you get about 25 miles of range added per hour, so will only need to charge a few hours a night or what I do is charge up to 80%, drive for a few days till im down to 40%, then recharge for 6 hours.
Unless I'm going on a really long drive (160mi in a day), which I will charge to 90% or 100%
 

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The 110V option needs over 13 hours to do a complete charge..
A regular 110/120v 15A outlet takes WAY longer than 13 hours to do a complete charge. That set up can add about 1% per hour to the battery so a full charge from empty would be more like 80-90 hours. A Level 2 240v 32A EVSE like the ChargePoint adds about 8% per hour, so it would take about 12 hours to charge an empty battery.
 

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A regular 110/120v 15A outlet takes WAY longer than 13 hours to do a complete charge. That set up can add about 1% per hour to the battery so a full charge from empty would be more like 80-90 hours. A Level 2 240v 32A EVSE like the ChargePoint adds about 8% per hour, so it would take about 12 hours to charge an empty battery.
Good catch. Didn't mean to use the L2 hours. Meant to illustrate that 110 charging is not a great option for home. thanks.
 

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Thank you for the detailed information. As of now, I do not have tiered electrical rates either, but does JLR care what type of charger I am using or is there something in the warranty agreement that can potentially void warranty?

JLR doesn't care what charger you use and will not void warranty. Its marketing for CP as a partnership

I used a crappy Juicebox 30 Classic that has zero features and it worked fine.



L2 charger is an L2 charger. These are the ones used in all public charging that are not DC Fast chargers.


What I like about the CP app is that i can track my usage at home and public CP stations all in one interface.

Its $599 for with 25" cord.
 

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Do you all have a home charger? if so, which one and would you recommend it? We have about 35-40 miles/day commute. In my home state, there are no incentives, so it will all have to come out of my pocket. Thanks in advance.
Considering that we have people from all over the world here, it would be interesting to know where you are located. For instance, for this kind of question, in Quebec, we recommend to buy local : EVDuty and Flo are made locally, very good service, design for very cold climate (important for the cable).
 

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I installed Clipper Creek and it works great. Does not have the bells and whistles offered by ChargePoint but I wasn't sure I would have used them to justify paying more. I also liked that my Clipper Creek charger comes with a lock since my charger is located outside.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Considering that we have people from all over the world here, it would be interesting to know where you are located. For instance, for this kind of question, in Quebec, we recommend to buy local : EVDuty and Flo are made locally, very good service, design for very cold climate (important for the cable).
Sorry, should've mentioned it....I am in Kansas.
 

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Do you all have a home charger? if so, which one and would you recommend it? We have about 35-40 miles/day commute. In my home state, there are no incentives, so it will all have to come out of my pocket. Thanks in advance.
Even though, based on your stated typical use, you could actually get by using the crappy little 110v ‘charger’ that came with the car, I wouldn’t recommend it. Buy a 220-240v one and have a dedicated circuit installed. The max the I-Pace can handle is 32A, (requires a 40A breaker), I would install a 50A, which will give you a little ‘extra’ capacity for the future use.

If you want bells and whistles and like to keep track of things, you’ll want a smart EVSE, of which the ChargePoint and JuiceBox seem to be the 2 most common. I had the JuiceBox 40 Pro. I wouldn’t buy one again because I didn’t use any of the fancy features, the cable is stupidly thick and heavy and it died on me within 4 months. They replaced it under warranty, (the person who bought it from me reported that one also died) - obviously one cant extrapolate reliability based off a n of 2, but that is my experience.
If you don’t need the fancy stuff, save several hundred dollars and buy a simple, small, portable unit such as a Mustart.
 
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