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Discussion Starter #1
Not sure what to do. I just bought an I pace on sunday Nov 10. After charging it overnight in my chargepoint home charger, I can only get it to 91% charge (183 mile range) even though the left side of the screen says charging complete. My dealer has given me a loaner while they try to fix this issue, but after reading all the posts on faulty batteries I am really worried. I cant believe that they didn't figure this out before letting me drive the car home. Any thoughts or suggestions?
thanks,
jon
 

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Sorry to hear this. Is this a brand new vehicle, and what was the build date? Or was it pre-owned?
If you have a loaner, I suggest some patience initially to let them figure out what's wrong. Just be persistent with seeking answers. Insist on a specific technical explanation for what's wrong, not just some handwaving.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the advice. Yes this was a new 2019 vehicle that had 700 miles (I assume from customer test drives). not sure the build date. Otherwise I absolutely love the car, never driven anything like it. I am hoping that since the vehicle only shows 91% charge and otherwise seems to drive normally they can figure out how to get a full 100% charge.
 

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The build date will show up on the repair order form (at least it does here).

Never make assumptions. I always ask about the mileage on it before purchase. Is it a demo car? Was it used as a courtesy car for local function (e.g. golf tournament)? Courtesy car (loaner) for the dealer? etc. This probably isn't necessary if it has only a few miles on it.

Good luck with them sorting this out.
 

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thanks for the advice. Yes this was a new 2019 vehicle that had 700 miles (I assume from customer test drives). not sure the build date. Otherwise I absolutely love the car, never driven anything like it. I am hoping that since the vehicle only shows 91% charge and otherwise seems to drive normally they can figure out how to get a full 100% charge.
Sorry to hear you also have a battery issue. Maybe it's software in your case? I'm not sure if that is better or worse.

Have you triple checked that you'll be eligible for the tax rebate? I was looking at an iPace with a few hundred miles on it and there was some question over whether it's eligible as a new EV purchase. The leasing company claimed it would not be and I think it depends on how/if they registered it and what the use was.
 

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Main battery replaced at 10,000 kms. New battery required repair of 2 of 6 charge control modules. New batter would charge to only 91% and required new software. New battery shows 94% health on WattCat which is worrisome after 1000kms.
[I thought I'd respond to this here to keep the battery poll thread mostly a poll instead of discussion]

What capacity does WattCat show for your new battery?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
unfortunately I don't have an android, and didn't find wattcat on my Iphone apps. Is there an Iphone equivalent?
 

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unfortunately I don't have an android, and didn't find wattcat on my Iphone apps. Is there an Iphone equivalent?
#timbo had the exact problem in that his car would only charge to 91%. I would be surprised if your problem is not the same one he had.
 

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unfortunately I don't have an android, and didn't find wattcat on my Iphone apps. Is there an Iphone equivalent?
Not to my knowledge ... you might consider sweet-talking a friend or buying a cheap android tablet (or used phone) that has wifi, someone else here has done that with success.
 

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Wattcatt data:

Nov 11th:

81% charge - 55.55 kW
100% charge - 69.44 kW
That is 77.15% of the base capacity of 90 kW
Or 82.67% of the base capacity of 84 kW

Nov 11th

75% charge - 51.45 kW
100% charge - 68.01 kW
That is 75.57% of the base capacity of 90 kW
Or 81.66% of the base capacity of 84 kW

Nov 12th

68% charge - 46.25 kW
100% charge - 68.6 kW
That is 76.22% of the base capacity of 90 kW
Or 81% of the base capacity of 84 kW

Nov 12th

60% charge - 38.4 kW
100% charge - 64 kW
That is 71.11% of the base capacity of 90 kW
Or 76.19% of the base capacity of 84 kW

Nov 14th

93% charge - 63.85 kW
100% charge - 68.65 kW
That is 76.28% of the base capacity of 90 kW
Or 81.73% of the base capacity of 84 kW

Nov 14th

96% charge - 66.1 kW
100% charge - 68.85 kW
That is 76.5% of the base capacity of 90 kW
Or 81.96% of the base capacity of 84 kW

I have some serious concerns about the health of my battery.

The vehicle suffered from coolant leakage for the first 5 or 6 months. I didn't use the AC because it was winter. When I realized the AC wasn't working, I gave my vehicle for repair and Jaguar took 3 weeks for repair.

I am concerned that the battery pack may have some suffered damage during this time because of impaired thermal management.

If the data that Wattcat is showing is anywhere close to being correct, the degree of degradation my battery pack has suffered, is unacceptable.
 

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Wattcatt data:

Nov 11th:

81% charge - 55.55 kW
100% charge - 69.44 kW
That is 77.15% of the base capacity of 90 kW
Or 82.67% of the base capacity of 84 kW

Nov 11th

75% charge - 51.45 kW
100% charge - 68.01 kW
That is 75.57% of the base capacity of 90 kW
Or 81.66% of the base capacity of 84 kW

Nov 12th

68% charge - 46.25 kW
100% charge - 68.6 kW
That is 76.22% of the base capacity of 90 kW
Or 81% of the base capacity of 84 kW

Nov 12th

60% charge - 38.4 kW
100% charge - 64 kW
That is 71.11% of the base capacity of 90 kW
Or 76.19% of the base capacity of 84 kW

Nov 14th

93% charge - 63.85 kW
100% charge - 68.65 kW
That is 76.28% of the base capacity of 90 kW
Or 81.73% of the base capacity of 84 kW

Nov 14th

96% charge - 66.1 kW
100% charge - 68.85 kW
That is 76.5% of the base capacity of 90 kW
Or 81.96% of the base capacity of 84 kW

I have some serious concerns about the health of my battery.

The vehicle suffered from coolant leakage for the first 5 or 6 months. I didn't use the AC because it was winter. When I realized the AC wasn't working, I gave my vehicle for repair and Jaguar took 3 weeks for repair.

I am concerned that the battery pack may have some suffered damage during this time because of impaired thermal management.

If the data that Wattcat is showing is anywhere close to being correct, the degree of degradation my battery pack has suffered, is unacceptable.


Based on that data it is pretty clear you have a bad battery
 

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From my experience so far, there could be two items wrong. Your main battery could be bad, but it might be something less bad as I have received both fixes.

The first time my battery would only charge up to around 86% then say ‘Charge Complete’ After they replaced my battery, within a thousand KMs or so I had a ‘Main Batter Fault’ and I couldn’t operate the vehicle. By morning it cleared up and I could drive it to the dealer. It turns out there are 6 modules (possibly called charge controllers, or thermal management controllers or something like that) and they make sure that the battery is cooled or warmed correctly and that the cells are receiving the same charge. 2 of the 6 in the car needed to be replaced.

After they fixed that, I got my car back but it would only charge up to 91% then say ‘Charge Complete’ again. It turns out that there was a software update and the software for the Chinese market was loaded inadvertently during the previous repair. They couldn’t figure out how to upload the Canadian software so Jaguar Head Office remotely operated their computer and updated my car properly and I can now charge back to 100%

Now I wonder if all along I just had bad software and did they have to change the battery originally? I have no way of knowing. Anyhow, the battery replacement is actually just a couple hour job once they receive it. I think that is your issue and I don’t think they will debate you too hard on your lack of battery capacity
 

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Thanks Varun for posting this! [I moved your post here to keep the poll thread a poll of sorts]

I also suspect a bad battery pack in Varun's case.

In my case, JLR had the dealer do a deep dive into the battery cells and instructed the dealer to take apart the battery and replace individual cells. [Needless to say I'm not excited about that]

Timbo, did they actually replace the whole pack for you?
 

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Yes I took pictures of them while they did it. They were terrified the whole time. I guess the safety warnings they receive are quite extreme and they handled it like carrying a case of Nitro-Glycerine. :)
 

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I have just started at thread on the UK website regarding this as I seem to have a problem. Can you tell me what battery health Wattcat is giving you?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I just heard back from the dealer, they identified a software issue that was blocking 4 cells from charging. They tell me it is fixed and the car is charging to 100%. They are still trying to get the range corrected to state 240 miles, as currently it is only stating 200...I’ll keep you posted
 

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So I just heard back from the dealer, they identified a software issue that was blocking 4 cells from charging. They tell me it is fixed and the car is charging to 100%. They are still trying to get the range corrected to state 240 miles, as currently it is only stating 200...I’ll keep you posted
If you don't yet have an android device or can't use a friend's for WattCat, I suggest you insist on them telling you how many kWh the API shows (or the measurement via the OBD port). They can get that information. It should be about 82kWh - 84 kWh with a full charge. Don't let them fool you with the GoM or the idea that 100% SoC indicates a good battery.

It would be a weird software flaw that surfaces only on some vehicles. If you can extract more information from them that would be helpful for us.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks so much for the good advice, I will definitely ask them. Just so I know what I am talking about, what is API, OBD, GoM, and SoC? Sorry for my ignorance...
 

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Haha, no worries! Maybe we should make this a sticky:

API = Application Programming Interface. It's the "portal" that lets mobile devices communicate with a database. All your drive- and vehicle-related data are uploaded to a database at JLR (unless you didn't register your car with them) and mobile apps and web interfaces that you use interact with these databases via the API. So, "API" is actually a bit of a misnomer, because it's just an intermediary; "Database" would be the better term. Either way, we mean information stored on the JLR servers that you can access via your device.

OBD = On-board diagnostics. A protocol that lets third parties communicate with the information that is stored in the car and change parameters of running the car. There's a port in the driver's footwell that's for the connection of an OBD device; and then you have an app that communicates with *that* device. More fine-grained information, because not everything gets reported to the database; and a direct way (*the* way in fact) to change low-level parameters of how the car actually runs.

GoM = Guess-o-Meter. The range indicator. That's your 201 or 234 or 280 or whatever miles the car tells you it thinks you have. Based on (1) equal parts magic and (2) calculations of your past behavior and (3) bugs. Every EV has one.

SoC = State of Charge; the percentage of your battery's capacity that's still available. Your gas gauge (although it's not quite as direct of a measurement as the gas volume in an ICE car (ICE = Internal Combustion Engine)

HTH
 
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