Wow. Very sorry to hear. Sounds like you are already in the "lemon" (replacement / buy-back) process. Sympathize with your frustration. Naturally, most folks here are hoping the car is generally sound. . . but failures do occur (hence the procedure). Good luck!
Frozen Screen
The 2019 I-Pace EV was delivered to me after a long wait, on January 12,2019. I have used it for exactly 12 days and it has been at the dealership for 19+ days. They are still working on it! In the first week, the Navigation system froze and I could not reliably drive the car as it could not accurately give me the range of the battery or charging station locations. After spending 9 days at the service bay -- they changed the hardware which was defective, an antenna and reloaded the software. I used it for 6 days and then the central Telemetrics Control Unit went black and totally dead. No AC, navigation, music, phone or stability control system. I was told to drive with care as the DCS was malfunctioning! The car is back at the service bay and they are still working on replacing the 12 volt battery which was low/dead. The car is not reliable and has too many bugs in the software. I had bought this car for my wife -- she and I are absolutely disgusted with the appalling problems we have had within the first 2 weeks. Why should the paying customer have to deal with this Electric Vehicle from Jaguar Land Rover, which has not been tested properly, before it was put on the road?? This is a huge well documented problem! The UK I-Pace forum sites, have this problem reported in 245 posts over 25 pages! Wake up Jaguar Land Rover and make it right for your customers. I have officially complained on February 4 2019 and am awaiting a decision regarding a replacement or buy back. I am too busy to deal with repeated problems involving a brand new very expensive car.
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Sorry to hear your problems. If you are looking for solutions, try the slow-boot procedure when you get it back.
As far as widespread problems from an untested car? Many owners report differently, and the I-Pace was tested far more than the #1 brand of expensive EVs, IIRC 200 I-Paces were tested for over 2 million miles before release. The #1 premium EV company ships cars knowing full well that advertised features do not work at all since they had not programmed them yet. This same brand had common lockups on the center display, which was far more critical than the center display of an I-Pace. They even had a method of rebooting the computer when it locked up. They shipped an entire batch of cars before testing the brakes which proved to be programmed wrong.
Stability control is not done through the center display, it's a button and it's status is shown only on the dashboard display. Did your dashboard put up a "DSC Malfunction" light?
I'm into month 3 and >3,000 miles of an early release car, and have driven it at its limits. There are some intermittent and some static bugs in the software. I normally "slow boot".
As far as widespread problems from an untested car? Many owners report differently, and the I-Pace was tested far more than the #1 brand of expensive EVs, IIRC 200 I-Paces were tested for over 2 million miles before release. The #1 premium EV company ships cars knowing full well that advertised features do not work at all since they had not programmed them yet. This same brand had common lockups on the center display, which was far more critical than the center display of an I-Pace. They even had a method of rebooting the computer when it locked up. They shipped an entire batch of cars before testing the brakes which proved to be programmed wrong.
Stability control is not done through the center display, it's a button and it's status is shown only on the dashboard display. Did your dashboard put up a "DSC Malfunction" light?
I'm into month 3 and >3,000 miles of an early release car, and have driven it at its limits. There are some intermittent and some static bugs in the software. I normally "slow boot".
All our issues are minor. Not even worth the time for a dealer visit. Compare that you've seen on Tesla websites. But **** happens.
Thanks McRat. What is a slow-boot? Will try anything at this stage!Sorry to hear your problems. If you are looking for solutions, try the slow-boot procedure when you get it back.
As far as widespread problems from an untested car? Many owners report differently, and the I-Pace was tested far more than the #1 brand of expensive EVs, IIRC 200 I-Paces were tested for over 2 million miles before release. The #1 premium EV company ships cars knowing full well that advertised features do not work at all since they had not programmed them yet. This same brand had common lockups on the center display, which was far more critical than the center display of an I-Pace. They even had a method of rebooting the computer when it locked up. They shipped an entire batch of cars before testing the brakes which proved to be programmed wrong.
Stability control is not done through the center display, it's a button and it's status is shown only on the dashboard display. Did your dashboard put up a "DSC Malfunction" light?
I'm into month 3 and >3,000 miles of an early release car, and have driven it at its limits. There are some intermittent and some static bugs in the software. I normally "slow boot".
The stability problem was an information/alarm message on the dash( steering wheel). Said it was due to a low battery and I should drive with caution.
The computers in the I-Pace don't wake up very quickly. This is both bad and good. While it keeps parasitic losses very low, it also means that if you start driving without the computers running, they might not wake up that trip.Thanks McRat. What is a slow-boot? Will try anything at this stage!
The stability problem was an information/alarm message on the dash( steering wheel). Said it was due to a low battery and I should drive with caution.
Slow Boot:
Lock you car (if unlocked).
Unlock your car (unplug if necessary).
Hop in, and push the ON/OFF button for a full second.
The car seems to wake up in this order:
First the telephone link wakes up.
Next the music system.
Then the Navigation.
Once the Navigation is up, then drive off.
This cycle can take <10 seconds to a full minute or more. Especially the NAV.
When I wait for everything to wake up, I have had no problems other than the rare Change To Celsius bug, where the temp knobs change their display to °C.
I just hop in and immediately take off, there is chance I will get the Black Screen issue, Temp Screen issue, and no NAV.
However, I have not seen a SC/TC problem. On most cars, that is related to a wheel sensor error.
Hopefully they will refine the software and address the boot time, or at least put a WAIT message on it like you see on some diesels in very cold weather.
This isn't the only car I've seen with quick boot issues.
I have also noticed that some USB devices will hamper booting, but it just means a longer delay.
DOH!!!
I have raced my I-Pace in the rain with the Traction Control and Stability Control turned off. The handling is not scary, although there is some significant understeer in tight corners, and it can oversteer if you force it to do so.
So having the TC/SC error when driven normally on wet or dry streets probably is not going to be noticeable or dangerous. Snow and ice? I'd want it fixed NOW.
I have raced my I-Pace in the rain with the Traction Control and Stability Control turned off. The handling is not scary, although there is some significant understeer in tight corners, and it can oversteer if you force it to do so.
So having the TC/SC error when driven normally on wet or dry streets probably is not going to be noticeable or dangerous. Snow and ice? I'd want it fixed NOW.
Much obliged for your help. I will try the slow boot when my car gets back to me. Still at the dealers as they are waiting to change the 12 v battery, which has to still arrive from somewhere.
I hear the stability problem was due to the weak/malfunctioning 12 v battery?! Strange that this should be defective in the first 3 weeks!
Will keep everyone posted as to how I do when I eventually get the car back.
I hear the stability problem was due to the weak/malfunctioning 12 v battery?! Strange that this should be defective in the first 3 weeks!
Will keep everyone posted as to how I do when I eventually get the car back.
Here is an update -- I got my car back after 12 days. They changed both the 12 v battery's and changed some main battery modules. The car has been driven by me for 2 days without any major hitch.
This has been the second major job done by the dealership, since the car was delivered. I have had the car for 12 days and they have had the car for 21 days.
The next time this happens or I have any major issue, I am going to ask for a replacement or a buy back. So far the JLR NA customer service has been very poor. They do not contact you for days. I am still waiting for them to get back to me after the second repair was done.
Any thoughts?
This has been the second major job done by the dealership, since the car was delivered. I have had the car for 12 days and they have had the car for 21 days.
The next time this happens or I have any major issue, I am going to ask for a replacement or a buy back. So far the JLR NA customer service has been very poor. They do not contact you for days. I am still waiting for them to get back to me after the second repair was done.
Any thoughts?
Since I got the car back, I have driven it for 5 days. The other night I got on to the highway and later noticed that my drivers side rear view mirror was stuck in the folded locked position. Could not open it from the inside -- tried to use the mirror adjustment knobs with no luck.
Had to pull over, get out, lock and then unlock the car and then the rear view mirror functioned as it is meant to.
Today, I drove early morning with the back rear door slightly ajar, by mistake. No error message till I was about 20 miles down the highway. I then got the error message in the dash but it was not possible to pullover safely. Reached a side road and did find the door ajar but thank God it did not fly open on the highway. Why did it not show me the error right away??
My BMW and my Mercedes always gave a clear warning immediately.
Had to pull over, get out, lock and then unlock the car and then the rear view mirror functioned as it is meant to.
Today, I drove early morning with the back rear door slightly ajar, by mistake. No error message till I was about 20 miles down the highway. I then got the error message in the dash but it was not possible to pullover safely. Reached a side road and did find the door ajar but thank God it did not fly open on the highway. Why did it not show me the error right away??
My BMW and my Mercedes always gave a clear warning immediately.
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