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I went below stated 0% today and while charging back up with my 7kW cable I noticed that at about 13% SoC the current displayed on the charging cable box went from 32Amp (where it had been all along) to 30... then at 16% it went to 28Amp ... then at 17% it went to 27Amp ... then at 18% to 25.5Amp ... at which point I had enough. Evidently the car was throttling Level 2 charging !!

No it wasn't heat. No it wasn't the charging cable. Yes it was the car, which also started predicting a longer and longer time to full charge whose trajectory clearly indicated an anticipation of further throttling. And it displayed a slowdown in the increase of SoC and predicted miles.

Yes it was the car, which after disconnecting the cable, locking the car, and then restarting the session (within a span of 5 minutes) happily started charging at 32 amps again and has not changed that since. I'm now at 52% SoC and the charging has been nicely linear since the restart.

Arg!!
 

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Aaand another bug. All of a sudden the Remote app's reported "Time remaining" dropped by over an hour to exactly 5 hours 0 minutes and then disappeared. Phone reboot = nada. Until now it was correct. The car still displays the correct time (well I don't know if it's fully correct, but it's consistent). Restarted charging session and the app is now stuck at 5 hours 0 minutes while the car is still 'correct'. All the other data seem right so it's not some random interwebs connection issue. Oh wait, the app is back to correct now. WTF.
 

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I often charge at work at 20 amps. The I-Pace charging time actually counts up in time from zero. At least I know how long it was charging. Somewhere at about 4 hours left it then starts counting down. Bizzaro.
 

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I am having a different charging problem. Car charges properly - am using an adapter to my Tesla charger. The charge indicator while driving drops dramatically with city driving and/or freeway driving. I have kept track for 3 days and basically there is a difference of about 48% between the odometer which I believe is accurate and the charge. Example, charge indicator will go from 240 to 192, and odometer will go from 1121 to 1145. Went to service, the coolant leak was discovered and repaired, thought that would fix the problem but above has now been happening since the car was picked up from service. Advice? Lemon?
 

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It seems like the most junior engineer at JLR was put in charge (har) of the recharging system.

At a minimum, it was designed by folk who have no practical EV driving experience. The list is long, and I won't even harass them about the charging problems with the app.

1) No lighted charging port. This is a important feature that is cheap to implement.
2) No 7kW L1/L2 EVSE included in the production car. It was included in the prototypes, and ALL Teslas, even the $45k one, and some other EVs have true L2 cables with them as well. It's not much more than an L1 cable.
3) The car needs to show charging status while charging. Because if somebody sees no light on the car, they will assume you are not charging.
4) Locking the cable to the cars for L1/L2 charging is not necessary, and just increases the cost and things that can go wrong. Ditto for locking the charging door. Nobody can siphon electrons out.
5) The car does not like EVSEs that delay charging.
6) Should have had a 3ph and 277v options to future proof it. 277v is the voltage you see in parking lot lights or commercial buildings and Tesla supports it. 3ph is the power the power commercial buildings and much of Europe is wired for. It should be an option, only those who want to pay for it should have to. Because it takes 3x the on-board circuits. Added bonus? Slow 208vac L2's are common at destinations. A 3ph charger will make it run at full 240vac speed. For the US crowd, let me give you a taste of what it would do for a work or destination charger. Using only a 30 amp circuit breaker and 10 gauge wire (cheap), and obeying the 80% rule, that is 24 amps per phase. So for 208 service - 8.6 kW with a thinner, lighter, cheaper charging cable. For the more common 480 service, 20 kW charging, charge 20% per hour after losses. 277 loses less % efficiency. Now our normal 1-ph 32a x 240v L2 charging is 15% faster when using 277 1ph. Note that it is simply a component and firmware decision to make an EVSE or on-board charger accept anywhere from 90 to 277 VAC. Not a significant cost since wires and components are rated far higher than 240 volts.
 

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I am having a different charging problem. Car charges properly - am using an adapter to my Tesla charger. The charge indicator while driving drops dramatically with city driving and/or freeway driving. I have kept track for 3 days and basically there is a difference of about 48% between the odometer which I believe is accurate and the charge. Example, charge indicator will go from 240 to 192, and odometer will go from 1121 to 1145. Went to service, the coolant leak was discovered and repaired, thought that would fix the problem but above has now been happening since the car was picked up from service. Advice? Lemon?
The "miles left" estimator is just that, an estimator. If you always drive the same route, at the same temp, using the same technique, it's pretty accurate. It 'learns' your driving style.
I drove 155 miles yesterday and the range estimator was very pessimistic when I left.
Then I drove 155 miles back this AM and the estimator exaggerated my possible range.

First trip was based on my recent previous driving, which was driving like a fool, bursts of speed over 100 mph, floor it at many stoplights, go deep into corners before braking. So it 'learned' I drive like an animal. But then I drove calmly the next day. So it guessed too low. Now it adjusted it's guess, but on the way back I used more power per mile than the day before, so it overestimated.

PS - Teslas do not estimate range based on your driving style, like 99% of other cars sold today. If a Tesla says 310 miles, it can yield from 180 miles to 400 miles, but will always say ~310. They might as well just put a voltage gauge in there.
 

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I assume the locking cable is a Europe design. I understand for public L2 you need your own cable and it locks on the vehicle to prevent theft.
Sometimes I am just glad we were not all shipped right hand drive vehicles....
 

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I assume the locking cable is a Europe design. I understand for public L2 you need your own cable and it locks on the vehicle to prevent theft.
Sometimes I am just glad we were not all shipped right hand drive vehicles....
Yes but a SIMPLE setting would allow selection of always lock, lock while charging or never lock. Big problem for shared charging etiquette.
 

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Yes but a SIMPLE setting would allow selection of always lock, lock while charging or never lock. Big problem for shared charging etiquette.
Or add one more setting options, unlock when charging complete or reaches a certain user defined level. This would allow if charging at work or public charging station for the vehicle to release the pin and thus save one from having to rush to unlock or move the vehicle if not needed.
 

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Yes but a SIMPLE setting would allow selection of always lock, lock while charging or never lock. Big problem for shared charging etiquette.
Yes I live this frustration five days a week. I could leave my car to charge until the next person takes their turn. I could get 1 to 4 hours more charging per day. But no I must move.
 

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Yes I live this frustration five days a week. I could leave my car to charge until the next person takes their turn. I could get 1 to 4 hours more charging per day. But no I must move.
If it helps the German cars have the exact same “stupid” behaviour with no option to change it. At least Volt/Bolt have an option to disable an alarm that goes off if someone unplugs the cable while locked.
 

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I went below stated 0% today and while charging back up with my 7kW cable I noticed that at about 13% SoC the current displayed on the charging cable box went from 32Amp (where it had been all along) to 30... then at 16% it went to 28Amp ... then at 17% it went to 27Amp ... then at 18% to 25.5Amp ... at which point I had enough. Evidently the car was throttling Level 2 charging !!

No it wasn't heat. No it wasn't the charging cable. Yes it was the car, which also started predicting a longer and longer time to full charge whose trajectory clearly indicated an anticipation of further throttling. And it displayed a slowdown in the increase of SoC and predicted miles.

Yes it was the car, which after disconnecting the cable, locking the car, and then restarting the session (within a span of 5 minutes) happily started charging at 32 amps again and has not changed that since. I'm now at 52% SoC and the charging has been nicely linear since the restart.

Arg!!
I noticed something similar with 110V trickle charge as well. The Charge Added per Hour percentage drops as charging goes on. That's not surprising given properties of battery. However, I recorded different charging sessions and compare the charge added per Hour at the same State of Charge.

I looked at the charge rate when the State of Charge is at 30%. The charge rate can range from 4, to 3 to 2%/hour depending on how long I had been charging. If I plug the vehicle in at 30% to start, the rate of charge was 4%/hour. If I charged from 20% SoC, by the time SoC becomes 30%, the rate of charge was just 2%/hour.

This sounds like a software bug in the charging profile... Hopefully Jaguar improves this soon.
 

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Charging Stops

I am having a different problem. When I am home, using the Juice Box Pro 40 EV charger, I have no problems.
When I am at a hotel, using a Level 2 charger, the charging stops when the car is locked, and the charging resumes when the car is unlocked.
Has anybody experienced this, and how can I lock the car and continue the charging.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I am having a different problem. When I am home, using the Juice Box Pro 40 EV charger, I have no problems.
When I am at a hotel, using a Level 2 charger, the charging stops when the car is locked, and the charging resumes when the car is unlocked.
Has anybody experienced this, and how can I lock the car and continue the charging.
uh, that's backwards. for me it usually stops when I unlock the car. have you tried various combinations of plugging in/unplugging, locking/unlocking?
 

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I am having a different problem. When I am home, using the Juice Box Pro 40 EV charger, I have no problems.
When I am at a hotel, using a Level 2 charger, the charging stops when the car is locked, and the charging resumes when the car is unlocked.
Has anybody experienced this, and how can I lock the car and continue the charging.
Have you tried locking the car first then plug in? Need to change you sequence somehow.
Or lock and walk away for a bit and come back and try again.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Back to the original topic, see first post.

I reproduced that bug today. It started throttling at 18% SoC. I immediately disconnected the cable, started charging again at 32Amp; then it started throttling *again* at 20% SoC.
 

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If you have a different EVSE, try that so you can isolate the issue.

Throttling is a normal function when heat sensors report a high value. ie - a bad heat sensor can cause it.

Some 'smart' EVSEs report their temperature and can also throttle.

I've mapped a 0-100% charge and it was very linear on the demand side.

I do know the JLR mobile app does not report charging data correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I'm reading the amps (as well as supplied kWh) directly from the charger and SoC, GoM range, and Estimated Time Remaining (ETR) directly from the vehicle. When the amps drop at the charger the ETR goes up almost immediately. Clearly the vehicle throttles.

Upon disconnecting and restarting the charging session it goes back up to 32Amps, and past 22% SoC it does not throttle any more until it hits close to 100%.

It's possible that it has something to do with the fact that the car is unlocked while charging but that doesn't mean it's not a bug. It's clearly a bug.

P.s.: I'm using a charging cable, not a 'smart' charger that may somehow circumvent that bug, so all control of charging is at the vehicle
 

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I'm reading the amps (as well as supplied kWh) directly from the charger and SoC, GoM range, and Estimated Time Remaining (ETR) directly from the vehicle. When the amps drop at the charger the ETR goes up almost immediately. Clearly the vehicle throttles.

Upon disconnecting and restarting the charging session it goes back up to 32Amps, and past 22% SoC it does not throttle any more until it hits close to 100%.

It's possible that it has something to do with the fact that the car is unlocked while charging but that doesn't mean it's not a bug. It's clearly a bug.

P.s.: I'm using a charging cable, not a 'smart' charger that may somehow circumvent that bug, so all control of charging is at the vehicle
I think you need to go to the UK forum site and report it as a bug to [email protected]

This could affect battery life as it may affect cell balancing at high charge levels if it is actually doing what it says.
 
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