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So I got back last night after driving from the SF Bay Area to Phoenix area and back for Christmas week and figured I'd give a report of what it was like taking the i-Pace on the trip. This was my first long trip that required charging on the way, so we were a bit cautious.

As expected, it was a comfortable ride. I had ACC in my prior car (2012 Audi A6) and decided I would never own another without, and ACC in the i-Pace works well enough. I did have to intervene once when someone cut over and hit the brakes, but otherwise it did its job. I do wish it would take it's queues from the drive mode like the Audi, where in Comfort it's a bit easier on the accelerator to get back into position, and brakes a little earlier (and easier) when the car in front is slowing down, mainly because those would help with range. I didn't use the LKA because it is too bouncy between lanes, so it just becomes a bother.

We ran into 2 software bugs on the trip. The first is the dreaded black screens. It's only the second time it has ever happened to me, but unlike the first time, this time it resolved itself relatively quickly. About 2 minutes after the screens went blank it looks like the computer (or at least these particular programs) restarted themselves and came up cleanly. Was really happy to see that, since it happened as we were able to leave from my parents' house for the trip back, and not having climate or radio would have made the trip miserable.

The second bug was definitely odd. We were listening to an audiobook most of the trip (one of our favorites, Cabin Pressure, by John Finnemore), and at one point the IMC got confused and was playing audio from CarPlay but the media controls showed it was using FM radio. We had been at a DCFC, listening while waiting for the charge the finish, and after we disconnected the charger and went to leave it got into this state. It was one of the only times we had the phone connected to the car when we started it, so maybe that had something to do with it. To fix it we had to disconnect the phone, manually switch to FM (using a shortcut I had put on the home screen), then reconnect.

While I was in AZ I also tried to get H264 applied at a Jaguar dealer near where we were staying. We were the first one they "updated", but after reading the notes of what they did, checking the instrument cluster, and talking to the service advisor the next day, it appears they didn't actually apply the update because they were confused by the instructions in Topix (would love to confirm if those that have had it applied end up with the large green bar showing SoC in the energy usage gauge in the instrument cluster). I've already read a post on this board where someone else got the update installed (correctly) at the same dealership, so I think they figured out what they were doing wrong. I now have an appointment for tomorrow at my normal dealer.

We mainly used Electrify America chargers (listed below), but also 1 ChargePoint location and 1 EV Connect location. While I had created accounts with all the major charge vendors before going, I forgot to purchase the EA Plus membership before my first charge. I ended up doing that while I was getting the first charge. All told we spent $234 for charging on the trip, for 460 kWh, so ~$0.51 / kWh. Definitely expensive electricity. On the bright side, we were able to use a public L2 charger quite a bit in Scottsdale, and we burned some of my parents' NEM credits while charging at their house.

We didn't see too many other EVs charging on the trip out. In fact, we only ran into 1 on the trip from CA to AZ. Unfortunately (for them) it was in Blythe, where there is exactly 1 DCFC. On the return trip we ran into a few, and this time we had to wait in Blythe. Because of how few we ran into I can definitely see how the charging companies wouldn't want to invest too much yet, except for EA since they are required to do it.

The return trip was much better than the trip to AZ, mainly because we were more comfortable with the expected consumption numbers provided by A Better Route Planner and the in-car navigation. On all but one leg of the entire trip we ended up arriving with more battery available than either tool had predicted, and the one case where we were lower it was only a difference of 2% of SoC. Because we had more faith in the numbers, we were more willing to charge to what ABRP advised, instead of adding an additional 10-15% SoC to feel safe. Only going to what it advised kept our SoC lower, which kept the charging rate higher.

So what did I learn? First, ABRP is generally safe to use for range estimation, which means you don't need to charge to high SoC unless it says to. Second, the trip is definitely doable, but it really adds a considerable amount of time because of charging. Third, while my wife went along with this, she definitely doesn't want to do it again, so I won't be doing the trip again until my car (whatever it is) is capable of charging at 150kW+ for the majority of SoC. And fourth, this car would be almost perfect if it incorporated the battery management / charging system from the e-Tron.

Some notes on each charging stop are below.

CA -> AZ Day 1 (12/20):

Panoche - Shell (EA):
Paid via CC before setting up Plus plan. Got ~100kW until 38% charge, then it started tapering, and was down to ~80kW by 50% SoC.

Countryside Market - Shell (EA):
Station 1 couldn’t initiate a charge, so called EA's help line. After a few attempts they advised to switch to station 2 or 3 because they saw more successful charges on those in the past. I wasn't able to use the RFID from Apple Wallet, and instead had to swipe to charge in the app. Briefly hit 96kW. We saw a local Bolt come by to charge and they mentioned that they routinely had problems on Station 1 as well. They also mentioned they usually used a station "in town" because it was closer, but it was busy. Still thought it odd that they would go to EA if they are local given the pricing.

Vons 2598 - La Crescenta, CA (EA):
Couldn't use Wallet, had to Swipe to Charge. This was a quick stop to (and not suggested by ABRP), but we were didn't yet trust the range predictions. Because of that, and because we were in a sweet spot for SoC, this was the lowest cost / kWh of charging for any of the DCFC chargers, at $0.36.

Fairfield Inn, Ontario / Rancho Cucamonga:
They have 7 spaces with L2 charging at ~6kW. Only 1 of the other 6 was in use. Being able to leave in the morning at 100% SoC was nice.

CA -> AZ Day 2 (12/21):

Walmart 2181 - Indio, CA (EA):
Still couldn't use Wallet to pay, so Swipe to Charge again. We charged here until we were ~95% because we were about to head up to Chiriaco Summit, then on to Blythe, and the chargers at Chiriaco have a mixed history on PlugShare.

DC Corridor Chiriaco Summit (ChargePoint):
The DCFC by the gas station works, but the one in front of the postoffice doesn’t. Both are 50kW chargers. They also have 2 L2 chargers, 1 next to each DCFC.

Hampton Inn - Blythe, CA (EV Connect):
We made it here with enough charge left that we could have skipped charging at Chiriaco Summit, but I'm glad we didn't skip it. This one only charges at 40kW, and I had to call in to get them to initiate the charge. There's a known bug (EV Connect is aware) with this device, so it doesn't show up on the map in their app, and it messages you twice every 60 seconds while charging, incorrectly stating charging has stopped and started. Definitely disable notifications from the app, and after you get the first notification via txt, disable them for that contact as well. While we were charging someone in a Bolt showed up, and since this is the only DCFC for more than 100 miles in any direction, they had to wait.

Walmart 3407 - Buckeye, AZ (EA):
No issues charging, but had to use Swipe to Charge again. I ended up helping someone with a new BMW i3 get a charge initiated (the chargers really don't like too much tension on the cable).

In AZ:

North Garage, Scottsdale Quarter, Scottsdale, AZ (Volta):
Public L2 charging. They have 2 chargers. Of the 5 times we charged here (during breakfasts, Star Wars, and dinner), we only saw 1 other car charging, a Tesla M3.

AZ -> CA Day 1 (12/27):

Walmart 3407 - Buckeye, AZ (EA):
Yet again I wasn't able to pay with Wallet, and to make this stop more fun it was raining and for some reason the EA app logged me out and didn't like my password anymore (which it reported by saying the account had an error). It took a bit of time on the phone with EA to figure out I had to reset my password, then I was able to get charging. We saw 2 other Bolts this time.

Hampton Inn - Blythe, CA (EV Connect):
One of the Bolts from Buckeye had beaten us here (they left Buckeye soon after we got there), so we had to wait a bit before we could charge. This time I was able to initiate the charge from inside the app by searching for the station ID.

DC Corridor Chiriaco Summit (ChargePoint):
We ran into the Bolt again, and they were using the working DCFC. We used one of the L2 chargers to get a bit of energy while we stretched and got some water / snacks.

Walmart 2181 - Indio, CA (EA):
Still couldn't use Wallet, but Swipe to Charge worked as normal.

Fairfield Inn, Ontario / Rancho Cucamonga:
There were 2 other EVs charging this time. Once again got to 100% overnight.

AZ -> CA Day 2 (12/28):

Countryside Market - Shell (EA):
Station 4 dead (Linux kernel messages on screen), so used station 2 this time. Had to Swipe to Charge again. While I was charging an e-Tron showed up and used station 3. It was pretty new (still had the temporary plates on, from Audi Livermore). This was their first trip with a BEV, heading down to Disneyland with the kids. Watching them charge, and having it stay at 144kW, definitely caused some envy. This was the first time I had seen one next to an i-Pace (I had seen them in person before, and had a First Edition reservation that I cancelled). It looks huge compared to the i-Pace.

Panoche - Shell (EA):
Swipe to Charge again. While we were charging a Prius parked in one of the spots to camp for a while.

Walmart 5843 Patterson (EA):
Last charge, and Wallet on my watch finally worked!
 

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Great write up

I take the LA to Phoenix route a lot. The AE in Quartzite couldn't come soon enough.

Would you take this trip again with the I-Pace or just take an ICE?
 

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Thanks for the interesting write up. I can confirm that H264 does have prominent green bar showing SoC in the instrument cluster replacing the white curved thing with the arrow on the bottom edge of the dial.

The easiest way I've found to deal with EA is to use their app to start and stop charging. It is very annoying that the app logs people out in a relatively short amount of time and can't use any biometric means to login. I'm not a person that remembers passwords or much else. I sent them feedback on this and some other complaints I have with their app and they actually called me to talk about it. They seemed receptive, but nothing has changed. If more people voiced their opinions, something might happen. You can leave feedback via the help menu of their app or call them.
 

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If your car has had H237 - INSTRUMENT PACK CLUSTER UPDATE applied the change from the curved mile gauge to the centered green bar for the GoM was already applied (with some other changes, such as being able to disable the steering wheel from moving if the car thinks the edge of the road is near).

H264 has specific language for the dealer to check if H237 has been applied, and if so H264 still NEEDS to be applied, but using a different set of steps. Direct from the H264 bulletin:

Inspect the digital and analog range displays in the center of the IPC on the vehicle as highlighted by the arrows in the image above.
If the IPC display is the same as the display marked with a RED '✕', go to 'DIAGNOSTIC INSTRUCTION B - IPC UPDATE'.
If the IPC display is the same as the display marked with a GREEN '✓', go to Step 6.

In short H264 REQUIRES that H237 (the instrument panel update) must be applied first, then H264 is applied. If your car has already had H237 applied (as mine has) then all that is needed is to apply H264 using the instructions in the Topix bulletin that the dealer has access to.

There is a matrix of what process the dealer needs to use based on VIN range and whether or not H237 has already been applied or not see image below:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Great write up

I take the LA to Phoenix route a lot. The AE in Quartzite couldn't come soon enough.

Would you take this trip again with the I-Pace or just take an ICE?
I might consider doing it alone, but probably not. My wife definitely won't for such a long trip. If we were only driving to SoCal then I'd definitely use the i-Pace. The answer would almost certainly change if the i-Pace could charge like the e-Tron, since that would have effectively cut our stop over time to less than half of what they were on this trip.

Thanks for the interesting write up. I can confirm that H264 does have prominent green bar showing SoC in the instrument cluster replacing the white curved thing with the arrow on the bottom edge of the dial.
Thank you for confirming that the IPC should be updated as well. The instructions definitely made it sound like it should have been done, but I wanted the confirmation before going into the dealer this morning.

The easiest way I've found to deal with EA is to use their app to start and stop charging. It is very annoying that the app logs people out in a relatively short amount of time and can't use any biometric means to login. I'm not a person that remembers passwords or much else. I sent them feedback on this and some other complaints I have with their app and they actually called me to talk about it. They seemed receptive, but nothing has changed. If more people voiced their opinions, something might happen. You can leave feedback via the help menu of their app or call them.
I'll definitely be sending them some feedback. When it worked, using Wallet on my watch was definitely the easiest, but a 1 in 6 success rate is definitely nothing to write home about. Even bigger than that issue is how touchy the stations can be for having tension on the charging cable, especially since the cables are so short and many of the stations are at the front-center of the parking spot, so the cable has to reach more to get to the socket.

If your car has had H237 - INSTRUMENT PACK CLUSTER UPDATE applied the change from the curved mile gauge to the centered green bar for the GoM was already applied (with some other changes, such as being able to disable the steering wheel from moving if the car thinks the edge of the road is near).

H264 has specific language for the dealer to check if H237 has been applied, and if so H264 still NEEDS to be applied, but using a different set of steps. Direct from the H264 bulletin:

Inspect the digital and analog range displays in the center of the IPC on the vehicle as highlighted by the arrows in the image above.
If the IPC display is the same as the display marked with a RED '✕', go to 'DIAGNOSTIC INSTRUCTION B - IPC UPDATE'.
If the IPC display is the same as the display marked with a GREEN '✓', go to Step 6.

In short H264 REQUIRES that H237 (the instrument panel update) must be applied first, then H264 is applied. If your car has already had H237 applied (as mine has) then all that is needed is to apply H264 using the instructions in the Topix bulletin that the dealer has access to.

There is a matrix of what process the dealer needs to use based on VIN range and whether or not H237 has already been applied or not see image below:
Yep, that's what I thought as well, but apparently the tech didn't read the instructions fully. Instead they saw the red X, decided that meant there was nothing to be done, and logged it as such on the work order ("Vehicle was within VIN F60001-F85731 do not require an Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) update. NO FURTHER ACTIONS TAKEN").
 

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Another preliminary observation: based on consumption on the way out to Livermore this morning, all the fast charging in cold weather during the trip seems to have cut my max range by about 10%. Note this is not based on the GoM, rather on SoC and distance travelled to get here.
 

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Another preliminary observation: based on consumption on the way out to Livermore this morning, all the fast charging in cold weather during the trip seems to have cut my max range by about 10%. Note this is not based on the GoM, rather on SoC and distance travelled to get here.
That would be worrisome indeed. You shouldn't lose 10% capacity because of a few fast charges.
Did you lose kWh capacity as reported by WattCat?
[Thanks for the trip writeup, btw!]
 

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P.s.: Try this (see my 'bad battery' thread post from a few minutes ago): charge to full with your L2 charger (assuming you have one) and then plug in your trickle charger overnight (the one supplied with the car), with the hazard lights on. Btw, are you dropping your car off at JLR Livermore to have updates and inspections done?
 

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That would be worrisome indeed. You shouldn't lose 10% capacity because of a few fast charges.
Did you lose kWh capacity as reported by WattCat?
[Thanks for the trip writeup, btw!]
I'm installing BlueStacks on my computer now so I can check it out (no Android devices in the home).

P.s.: Try this (see my 'bad battery' thread post from a few minutes ago): charge to full with your L2 charger (assuming you have one) and then plug in your trickle charger overnight (the one supplied with the car), with the hazard lights on. Btw, are you dropping your car off at JLR Livermore to have updates and inspections done?
I'll give that a try once I get it back (probably late today or tomorrow). I dropped it off so they can try H264 again since the dealership in AZ didn't actually do it.
 

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OK, got WattCat up in BlueStacks. It currently shows 64.05kWh at 81% charge, so 79.07kWh would be 100%. Health shows as 63%. Not sure why it would show so low, but hopefully the majority of what I saw is because the freeway was pretty open and I could do 80 for a chunk of it.
 

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Livermore confirmed that the dealer in AZ in fact did NOT apply H264, so they applied it. Unfortunately that 79.07kWh listed above is after they applied it, so that doesn't bode well, and would mean my battery is degraded by ~9% based on ~86kWh being the new top end after H264. I'm charging now, and will switch to the trickle charger overnight, but that level of degradation is depressing. :(
 

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OK, trickle charged overnight and now WattCat reports 84.85 kWh, so it must have just been my driving. The GoM is definitely off though, since it reports 266 miles of range.
 

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congratulations on getting the upgrade done and of course really awesome reporting of your long trip experience. Definitely need more high speed DC charges along these routes. thanks for the update on the post-trickle charge.
 
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