First Edition - flashing all warnings and dying - became a brick
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19 I-pace HSE Polaris/Fuji white with most options and a lot of accessories
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Current model year vehicles can update more modules OTA than the 2020s and before. Only the Infotainment, TCU and BECM were updated OTA on those. The BECM update would get bundled with the TCU update from what I observed when I got TCU updates OTA. Jaguar was cautiously entering the OTA updates feature when the I-pace came out. They may not have realized how much they got it wrong on initial releases of the software in the various modules.
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I think I’m going to have to replace my auxiliary battery. This will be the 2nd time. It was replaced back in Jan 22 when several modules were blown up by plugging into an Electrify America fast charger. I was able to restart car with a jump. I had this not so great experience before, so I had a small lithium booster battery. Question; has anyone had the outside running lights come on and not able to turn off when the aux battery drops voltage? Mine has done this before along with the brake pedal bottoming out and pulsating.Forum Members: I have a First Edition I Pace. Went to start it, battery showed full charge. All the warning signals started coming up (Don't drive, Can driver, not safe to drive, gear box fault, traction fault etc.), the car then died and became a brick.
Called the Tow and he tested the 12v, it was charged. It is currently at the dealer.
Anyone with a similar experience. The software is up to date.
I will post an update once the dealer gets back to me. The sad part is my warranty expired 1 month ago.
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Update from last night. After getting the car to boot up and drive it 100 feet into garage, I shut it off and slept on the problem. This morning, open doors and no greeting or boot up. put the jump on the aux battery and immediately it sucks it down to less than 50% and still no lights when opening door. I thought I had a good back up plan, guess not. Now I’m calling Jaguar roadside!
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Been postin on another thread. But you all are correct. Here’s the other post:
Borrowed a battery charger and connected to the starter battery while the lithium jumper still connected to aux battery. Key fob worked, nothing worked before. Jumped in and drove it to dealer. The aux battery was replaced 3/22, but not the starter battery. Starter battery is over 4 years old as this 19’ model was received in 1/19. Hopefully starter battery didn’t damage aux battery?
Also let me add another question. Why wouldn’t it do anything when I used the lithium jump on the starter battery? Maybe both batteries were low? I didn’t try just hooking the charger to the starter battery without the lithium booster connected to the aux battery.
Regardless thanks everyone for helping.
19 I-pace HSE Polaris/Fuji white with most options and a lot of accessories
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2,427 Posts
It is possible both batteries were low.
You clearly needed a jump for the start up (large) battery. Once the car powered up, the DC-DC converter could start operating and supplying 12V to run everything and even try to charge the 12V batteries. We just don't know the state of the 12V batteries without you (or a friend of yours) measuring them with a volt meter, or the use of other monitoring devices (which ironically would need 12V to operate).
It could be that your lithium jumper didn't have the power required for start up. What capacity is it? Was it fully charged? How did you connect it (what were the connection points)? The bad start up battery could have been sucking up all the power from the lithium jumper and left nothing for the car.
Thought I'd add my data:
Dead aux battery gave me about three days' warning, which I stupidly ignored. Car bricked where I park it on the third floor of my condo garage. Jaguar roadside response time 3 hours, sent wrong equipment (do not recommend). AAA had the car safely extracted in about 30 minutes. Dealer was great, and everything got sorted out in about a week. I'll have to go back and read what they did, it was the aux battery, some modules, some software. Anyway they gave me a decent loaner and none of it cost me any money.
If I had to do it over, I'd drop everything and drive it straight to the shop at the first sign of trouble.
Dead aux battery gave me about three days' warning, which I stupidly ignored. Car bricked where I park it on the third floor of my condo garage. Jaguar roadside response time 3 hours, sent wrong equipment (do not recommend). AAA had the car safely extracted in about 30 minutes. Dealer was great, and everything got sorted out in about a week. I'll have to go back and read what they did, it was the aux battery, some modules, some software. Anyway they gave me a decent loaner and none of it cost me any money.
If I had to do it over, I'd drop everything and drive it straight to the shop at the first sign of trouble.
Totally agree. I feel that this is the message we should all be pushing. The "OK to drive with caution", and other electric issues, needs to be taken more seriously (having ignored it myself).
19 I-pace HSE Polaris/Fuji white with most options and a lot of accessories
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2,427 Posts
As I said in thread What to expect and do with 12V battery failures - pre-MY21
"DO NOT IGNORE MESSAGES AND CONTINUE TO DRIVE. You will risk a complete shutdown in traffic and that could be rather hazardous."
"DO NOT IGNORE MESSAGES AND CONTINUE TO DRIVE. You will risk a complete shutdown in traffic and that could be rather hazardous."
Over the weekend I had my rear passenger tire go flat rapidly while driving with the family. That’s another story with Jaguar roadside assistance. My I-Pace is sitting at the dealer and I was wondering if I should just get them to replace both 12v batteries while it’s there. They are original from delivery in 2018.
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Congrats on making it on your original 12V(s)! I bet there are more like you that have had no issues. I don’t think a dealer will replace anything under warranty without a complaint or error message.
My Jaguar dealer was nice about fixing a flat tire for me. They had it done in about an hour. I was able to drive it to dealer before it ran out of air the second time (was a slow leak from a screw).
I’m sure mine would have too but the tire wasn’t salvageable. Winter tire and the only one left that matches is on the west coast. It was also late Saturday night by the time I got there, salesmen kept the lights on for me even though it was after hours and had a loaner ready.
They are quoting 500 for the main battery and 515 for the auxiliary installed.
Yup, I asked what the cost for just buying the batteries would be and do it myself, 255 for starter and 337 for aux. Basically charging two hours of labor for the install, ~$200 (1hr) per battery. I could probably do it myself except they said the starter battery replacement requires the BMS to be reset, which not sure I can reset it without their tools.
19 I-pace HSE Polaris/Fuji white with most options and a lot of accessories
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2,427 Posts
Technically, yes the BMS should be reset, but it is also documented that it sorts itself out after a brief period of time. Others have replaced their starter batteries without a BMS reset.
The larger starter battery is available from auto part stores for about $210. Look for a 99R or T4 battery or.UK battery size 063.
If you can wait a bit, I'll soon be posting more info on how to replace the smaller battery for under $150 (first time replacement) and under $100 thereafter (at today's prices).
The larger starter battery is available from auto part stores for about $210. Look for a 99R or T4 battery or.UK battery size 063.
If you can wait a bit, I'll soon be posting more info on how to replace the smaller battery for under $150 (first time replacement) and under $100 thereafter (at today's prices).
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Thanks, I can definitely wait to see what you have up your sleeves, much appreciated. I was just thinking if they weren't charging crazy amounts it might be worth my time not to diy.
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