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Factory Jag Front Mud Guards Install - Mike Mas

3449 Views 3 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Ayepace
Hello All - if you guys are like me, and hate to see the globs of grass and mud build up on the lower rocker panels all the way aft where its very visible, then you might want to pick up a set of these I Pace mud guards.
The front guards (T4K1103) retail for $140, I found a new set on Ebay for $125 delivered. They also make a rear set (T4K1104) which I found are not really needed.

When I researched the factory mud guards, one owner came back and told me the dealer wanted $700 to have them installed and was told it was a major job, regardless, I went ahead and ordered them to install myself.
As expected, you don’t need a degree in engineering or have to go to Jag school to install them yourself. There are very good instruction on the link I provided below.

JAGUAR Accessory Fitting Instructions

As the images show, there’s not a whole lot to them, they are somewhat short which prevents them from catching on speed bumps, yet stick down low enough to prevent the rocker panel from getting covered should you hit a construction zone.

Installation - The guard uses two screws at the lower end on the composite inner fender, plus it has a stud built into the guard which provides a rigid mount on the lower fender.

The first thing to do is remove the two screws from the lower inner fender. Next, hold the guard in place so you can locate where the hole needs to be drilled.
If you have air-ride you can just pump the bags up to have sufficient room to drill the hole under the fender. If you don’t, then just drive up on a few boards to lift the car slightly.

After you get it marked - carefully slide the composite inner fender over and lift it so the lower end is open to where you can get your hands in the corner to install the the nut which secures the guard.

After carefully marking the lower fender, drill the hole. Unlike the instructions there is nothing at all in there you can damage. Next, install the guard in place and reach in the fender to start the nut. This is not easy, so be patient. Once you get it started, use a small 10 mm socket to tighten it in place. For security, I added some blue locktite to the threads.

Regretfully, if you use the steel backing plate provided, the factory screws are too short, so I left out the backing plate because the support at the bottom of the fender is bullet-proof and needs no reinforcement. If you want to use the backer you’ll need to get some longer hardware.

To complete the job install the original two screws through the guard and into the two clips on the inner fender. and you’re done. The guard is very firmly mounted and because of its small size the three attaching points will securely hold the guard in place. If you happen to notice my painted calipers, I put up a story on this forum.

Enjoy - Mike

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They look sharp! I'm interested but curious if there is any data on range impact?

Obviously would be a function of speed, but I do a lot of freeway driving at 75+. I can foresee significant wind drag, especially on a set of four...
It's highly unlikely there is any record-able loss from these flaps since they are very small and located in the low pressure area behind the tires. I did not install the rear flaps since I was mainly concerned with the tires kicking up rocks striking the rear fender panel. I noticed Jag did put some clear tape on the rear section.

Some cars have an additional "rivet" in the liner inches above where the flap stud goes. Access is from the wheel well. It is supposed to be removable by using a Philips screw driver to back out the screw thus allowing the rivet to be pulled out.

In my case, that screw just turned and turned requiring the stud to be pried out (a small nail removal pry tool works or drill the head off). It may break. It won't be reusable if you can't get it out gracefully. Replacement part number is C2S9354020. One per side.

Tools you need:
- 7mm socket or wrench for the lower bolts (1/4 inch drive will do)
- 10mm socket (preferably deep socket) for the stud nut (1/4 inch drive will do)
- pointy tool (such as an awl)
- large channel lock pliers
- Philips screw driver to fit replacement rivets (if equipped)
- disposable gloves for when applying the adhesion promoter. Have both sides prepared for this at the same time.
- Use a 9/32 drill bit for a slightly smaller hole than 5/16 (8mm). The stud fits much better.

I did not have any problems reinstalling the lower screws. Their length is fine.
I did use an awl to align the mud flap holes, reinforcing bracket 'G' holes, and liner u-nuts to make it easy to install the lower bolts.
I used the large channel lock pliers to squeeze the clips 'F' together.

Additional tip is to use a tape measure to measure location of stud on flap relative to flap wheel well edge, outer edge and locating tab. Use this to double check the marking before drilling the hole.

If you have the rivets and destroy them with out handy replacements, you can still install the mud flaps and install replacement rivets later. A suitable replacement could be purchased at a local auto part store, too.
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