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Yesterday for the second time in 3 years I got a notice on dashboard that Cooling Level was low. First time I brought it to dealer that told me a tiny amount had to be added and good to go.

So I called and they said stop by and they would check the levels. When I got there I asked them to also check the two 12 volt batteries and they told me it takes eight hours to do so and I left with a loaner car. Is it normal to take that long to check the batteries?
 

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Mine were recently removed from the car and checked under warranty. One was replaced. The warranty labor chargeback was less than 1 hour for each battery. The process actually took place over the course of 2 days and included short and long test drives. I don't know why it took 2 days. The test drives were required as part of replacing the auxiliary battery, clearing codes, and making sure no faults existed afterwards.
 

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Mine were recently removed from the car and checked under warranty. One was replaced. The warranty labor chargeback was less than 1 hour for each battery. The process actually took place over the course of 2 days and included short and long test drives. I don't know why it took 2 days. The test drives were required as part of replacing the auxiliary battery, clearing codes, and making sure no faults existed afterwards.
Mine were recently removed from the car and checked under warranty. One was replaced. The warranty labor chargeback was less than 1 hour for each battery. The process actually took place over the course of 2 days and included short and long test drives. I don't know why it took 2 days. The test drives were required as part of replacing the auxiliary battery, clearing codes, and making sure no faults existed afterwards.
Is there any warning light that comes on when the 12v battery is low? Also, what type of a gage do I use to check the condition of the battery?
 

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Monitoring 12V batteries | Jaguar I-Pace EV400 Forum (i-paceforum.com)
What to expect and do with 12V battery failures - pre-MY21 | Page 2 | Jaguar I-Pace EV400 Forum (i-paceforum.com)

Ayepace has captured some info on the 12v battery writeups above. You can also download the program Wattcat which gives you a digital readout of the 12v system in your car. Wattcat can be downloaded from the google play store.
If you do not have one, you can go to where-ever and buy a voltmeter that has selectable voltages so you can use it on 12vDC systems and 120/240vac systems in your house. You can also use the ohmeter on the voltmeter to check lightbulbs and fuses continuity. I prefer analog meters with a needle because I am old. You can get to both 12v batteries in the frunk to check the voltages with a voltmeter. Don't short anything out! Wear medical gloves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yesterday for the second time in 3 years I got a notice on dashboard that Cooling Level was low. First time I brought it to dealer that told me a tiny amount had to be added and good to go.

So I called and they said stop by and they would check the levels. When I got there I asked them to also check the two 12-volt batteries and they told me it takes eight hours to do so and I left with a loaner car. Is it normal to take that long to check the batteries?
Anyway, next day I went back and got the car. They added some coolant and I left.

The real question I would like answered if anyone knows is if the I-Pace (2020) has a icon on the screen that will come on if 12-volt batteries are low? Is there any warning to let us know it is time
to get new batteries short of the car just not starting?
 

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No light and no warning message prior to all of the nasty messages that flood the instrument panel when a battery goes bad.
 

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No warning light on the dash for the 12v battery. When it goes it does so suddenly. at least for me it did. Car was running perfectly fine when I shut it off and tried to lock it it wouldn't lock and the exterior lights were really faint and flickering. I tried to turn it on and nothing just a dark blank screen. I was able to jump start it with a lithium booster pack but then a whole boatload of warning lights in the dash we lit up like a Chirstmas tree. I tried to drive it to the dealer but it didn't make it died within a couple of minutes. I tired to jump it again and it started up but when I removed the booster pack it died immediately. In this sense its much worse then a ICE, at least those you can run once you get it started.

Its really scary as when it dies it does so completely, even the hazards didn't work. Dead in the water won't move an inch can't even roll it off to the side. My battery lasted just under 3 years. I will be replacing mine every 3 years from now on even if its still good. That event was traumatic, I have not experienced anything like it before.
 

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How is this for timing? I drive 100 miles to West Ashley Jaguar in Charleston, SC for a software update. About 15 minutes later the service writer said they could not get my I-Pace started to move it into the service bay. Same old story, dead 12 volt battery. Just goes to prove this failure can happen anytime and any where without warning.
 

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You dodged a bullet. I'm at 3 years now with my second I-Pace and I'm worried the batteries will fail on the next road trip. What do I do? Intentionally drain the batteries so I get a warranty replacement? I do not want to be stranded on the Oregon coast in the summer on my way to Canada where we have reservations for specific dates!
 

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I don't think that will help because they don't install new batteries on the spot while I wait. They will take their sweet time while I have to rent a car to carry on with my vacation ...
Let us not forget the remote wires trick recommended by Mr. Pace. And carrying a spare small battery for a jump start, or maybe just a set of good old big jumper cables with some cash in your pocket.
 

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Absolutely, I have a remote wire installed as to Mr. Pace's instructions to connect a trickle charger. But on a road trip those don't matter ...
I honestly don't know, do jumper cables work on an EV? And cash, does that work any more? :LOL:
 

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Absolutely, I have a remote wire installed as to Mr. Pace's instructions to connect a trickle charger. But on a road trip those don't matter ...
I honestly don't know, do jumper cables work on an EV? And cash, does that work any more? :LOL:
Jumper cables do work. It is described in the owners manual, digital handbook and iGuide. It does show attaching directly to both battery posts, but I recommend attaching the negative connection to a ground point away from the battery. A high capacity jump pack doesn't take up much room and can be left attached to act a substitute battery to get you a short distance to a shop selling batteries.

You could do prep work for installing an alternative battery for the small auxiliary battery. Buy a replacement ground cable and SAE posts, modify the fuse holder and make the positive cable as described in the doc you proof read. That would leave sourcing the alternative battery for when it becomes necessary. The proper sized replacement for the other battery is readily available at a lot of places.

Take appropriate tools for a battery replacement operation too.
 

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They will take their sweet time while I have to rent a car to carry on with my vacation ...
This is not a real positive endorsement for Jaguar service, especially for a stranded out of town I-Pace owner and would be even worse if the battery was sitting in the parts room. Anyway, here is my approach: Traveling alone I'm willing to take my chances Traveling with my wife I'm investing in a new battery before the trip, simply because the money outlay would be inconsequential if I have to listen about this breakdown (which is preventable) for all eternity.
 

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My auxillary battery failed at 3 year period and caused some grief until I added in parallel a 12 volt alarm battery and drove 70 km jag depot and had it replaced at an exorbitant price inc labour and will do
It myself next time. The question is did the battery fail suddenly or just ran out of steam slowly. I bought 2 Matson Bluetooth (size of a matchbox) and connected to both 12 volt batteries and monitor on my phone and should alert if a problem. It has instantaneous read out and weekly/ monthly summary’s. The really only way to test a sealed and AGM battery as they are closed so can’t use a hydrometer is to load test them with say a load of c/5 or 9 amps for 47Ah and 3 amps with the small 14 Ah but that is outside the scope of the discussion and a nuisance to boot. I think it says a lot about the quality of the batteries as they don’t have heavy loads and would expect much longer than 3 years life.
 

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Yesterday for the second time in 3 years I got a notice on dashboard that Cooling Level was low. First time I brought it to dealer that told me a tiny amount had to be added and good to go.

So I called and they said stop by and they would check the levels. When I got there I asked them to also check the two 12 volt batteries and they told me it takes eight hours to do so and I left with a loaner car. Is it normal to take that long to check the batteries?
My 2020 i-Pace is going in for persistent BPFR warnings tomorrow (apparently the oblique way of warning about 12V battery failure on the horizon). The dealership would not commit to a time to see the car other than in the next week or two, while I get a loaner. The vague and extended timeline made me wonder if the diagnostics extend also to the charging system and possible faults with it. Anyone know? Is the charging system at fault for some or many early battery failures?
 

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Jumper cables do work. It is described in the owners manual, digital handbook and iGuide. It does show attaching directly to both battery posts, but I recommend attaching the negative connection to a ground point away from the battery. A high capacity jump pack doesn't take up much room and can be left attached to act a substitute battery to get you a short distance to a shop selling batteries.

You could do prep work for installing an alternative battery for the small auxiliary battery. Buy a replacement ground cable and SAE posts, modify the fuse holder and make the positive cable as described in the doc you proof read. That would leave sourcing the alternative battery for when it becomes necessary. The proper sized replacement for the other battery is readily available at a lot of places.

Take appropriate tools for a battery replacement operation too.
Are both of the batteries AGM types? Are these readily available at places that sell batteries retail?
 

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Welcome to the forums. This has been asked and answered many times. Please acquaint yourself with the search function.

2018-2020 large battery is a flooded battery and small battery is AGM. 2021+ has just the large flooded battery.
Flooded battery is size 99R/T4 or UK 063 that can be found at auto part stores and other fine places selling auto batteries. Small battery is not readily available in the US/Canada outside of JLR dealers and a very small number of mail order places (I've only located 1). There is an alternative approach for it. See link below.

 
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