Yes it reads like a fault has developed in the BCCM. You may want to join the https://www.ipaceforums.co.uk as there are more UK members there.

 

Hi @Holmzy, what happened with this in the end mate?

 

I have a 2023 I-Pace and my charging has been hit & miss since May 2024 after an update; mostly miss. My level 2 charging system is repeatedly being "Paused" by the vehicle. Dealer is unable to find an issue and says there are no "error codes" so there is noting wrong. The vehicle has no problem charging at the Level 3 system at the dealership. I now have 4 different chargers at my house for one EV. Two are Juice Box, one is Charge Point and the last one is the level 1 115v cable supplied with the car. All exhibit the same issue. This same issue was posted a couple of years back and the dealership involved replaced the BCCM (battery charging control module) and the issue appeared to go away. My dealership will not accept forums as a valid technical source so they wont replace mine under warranty - only if I pay for it out right!

 

@bob999

Your dealership will need to open a TA with Jaguar to get authorization to replace the BCCM or the socket under warranty. The level 2 charging requires rectification from AC to DC. The level 3 charging is direct DC current. The AC current goes through the socket on different pins than the DC charging (the two at the bottom) which is why the socket could be at fault.

The "pause" seems to indicate that communication works between BCCM and charger but the car is not getting the AC current expected and therefore "pauses" waiting for it.
Make sure there is no dirt in the socket that is preventing a good contact on the pins. Use a toothpick and compressed air (or other source of blowing air into it) to ensure it is all clear.

Take at least one of your chargers to the dealer and demonstrate that it doesn't charge. Make sure they have a plug for it before going. I'm sure the level 1 115V charger won't be a problem. Once they can't charge your car but can charge another vehicle (PHEV or EV) using the charger you take, they will have verified it isn't the charger(s) but something on the vehicle.

 

Thanks for info Ayepace. I'm pretty savvy with electricity and software so this issue is perplexing. It does not occur all the time at my home but when it does all 4 chargers exhibit the same fault "Paused" and across multiple 240v outlets. My dealer has contacted Jag and supposedly the USA engineer for Jag is coming to my house next week to witness the issue. I am able to fully charge other makes / models of EVs without an issue. So your thought about a pin contact issue may not be relevant. Nonetheless, I blew out the receptacle with a can of compressed air but charging "paused" immediately after plug in. My belief is that the vehicle is telling the charger to turn off since "Paused" also occurs with the 115v charger supplied by Jag at my house but not at the dealership. Since the issue is intermittent but becoming more frequent I am hopeful a fault will occur and register an error code. If anyone knows why the vehicle would display the word "Paused" on the driver's display screen please speak up. Knowing why "Paused" is displayed would help tremendously in diagnosing and correcting this issue.

 

As you have a 2023, have you checked the charging settings in the car?
Is it set for Immediate, Smart, or Low Cost Hours Only?
Any charging limit set?
When it pauses, does it always stop at the same SOC? 80%? 72? Other?

You haven't reported a blue blinking port LED and the cluster showing "TIMED CHARGING" we so know it doesn't have a departure date & time set. This is also why I don't expect "Low Cost Hours Only" to be set.

Have you tried using the Jaguar Remote App to restart charging?

We eliminate any charger settings as a potential cause since the 115V charger is a dumb charger with no settings.

 

I've been experiencing the same issue with my 2019 HSE. The problem only started after I went through the battery pack replacement. I have access to (2) L2 Wallbox shargers and the problem occurs on both. Other EV's don't have any problems using these chargers. I have my car at the dealers right now and on their DC fast charger the car charges fine. Has anyone found out if replacing the BCCM resolves the issue??

 

Got my vehicle back from the dealers. They updated the BCCM and related systems and successfully charged using their L2 charger. But I am experiencing the same issue still - the car starts to charge and then in 2-60 minutes it stops charging. Thw Wallbox app says 'vehicle not demanding energy'. I have experimented adjusting the charge rate down from 40 Amps down as low as 20 and the same pattern remains. I have tried charging at different times of day and that hasn't worked either. I cleaned the charge socket so that isn't it either. Any more suggestions?

 

Have you tried with the 120V charger that came with the car? Just another device to test against. Are both failures with the same brand of charger?

 

Hi All,

I had exactly the same experience Dave B. with my 2023 I-Pace after 11 months of successful charging with my Wall Box at home on a 240v 50amp circuit. I even convinced Wall Box to send me a new charger which ultimately produced no change in the charging issue. At that point I involved the dealer and they paid for a Charge Point charger. That also did not change the charging issue. My 2023 I-Pace would "Pause" charging after 2 to 5% of battery capacity but not on every charge cycle. It even said "Paused" on the driver's display panel. The dealership had no issue charging on their 150amp L3 charging system either. I also was not able to charge using the Jaguar supplied 120v charger - with the same issue of pausing! The whole issue took 6 months to resolve including the replacement of the BCCM as well as other components in the vehicle's charging system. The dealership finally gave up trying to solve the problem and I obtained a new 2024 I-Pace late last year after ~18 months of ownership.

I now consider my self a near-expert on the charging functionality in the I-Pace. The above story line is nowhere complete. I left out a lot of the details for brevity's sake. To list all the data and cite all of my notes would take hours to regurgitate and annotate. Suffice to say I kept (and still do) copious data points on each and every charge cycle as well calculated metrics on the performance of all of the EVs in the family.

During my period of trouble with the 2023 I-Pace I would invite friends and family over to my house for a free charge (yes I have solar). Not on any occasion did any of my 4 chargers have an issue charging their vehicles. When the dealership would work on the vehicle I even asked for I-Pace loaner. I never had an issue charging the dealership's I-Pace on my home L2 system

Bob

 

Bob, Thank you so much for taking the time to share your story with me. What seems strange is how in both your case and mine a system that had been working consistently all of a sudden became very unreliable. Not being able to rely on consistent charging is a huge issue as I onlyhave the one vehicle. To yourknowledge did the dealer ever replace/repair any of the charge port elements during your saga?

 

Hi Dave B.,

During the 6 months that I dealt with the dealership about this issue they perform 3 physical changes to the vehicle to help resolve the charging issue. The last 2 were to replace the electrical 5-pin receptacle / plugin on the vehicle and lastly replace the BCCM module in the vehicle. Neither of those did anything to resolve the problem and perhaps actually aggravated the situation so that the frequency of me being able to charge at home decreased.

Given that I was able to charge friends and family's e v's at my house and not charge my vehicle at my house I was convinced and I am still convinced that there is a problem with the charging capabilities of the vehicle. A testimony to that is the number of issues that people on these 2 forums have with charging the vehicle all of which have little common foundation other than a single point of the I-Pace vehicle. More specifically I really believe there is a HUGH software bug in the vehicle since the symptoms that people are reporting are common in that they cannot charge the vehicle but dissimilar in that everybody has their own set of specific issues. Remember that Jaguar is a mechanical organization and they had to go out and recruit and/or create people who could do high-tech electronics and software in a digital age. Not an easy task especially if you are an India based corporation.

At the very end I was actually taking my vehicle to the dealership to have them charge it on there 150 kW charging system.

 

I took my car to a public L2 charger and sat in the car while it was charging. The same pattern repeated itself with the vehicle starting to charge and then pausing. But I noticed that by just jiggling the plug the charger would begin to charge again. This happened repeatedly so my conclusion was that it must be an issue with the plug connector on my car. Since that exercise I have now had success charging at home by fully unraveling the charger cord so there is no downward pressure on the cord. 3 straight full charges. I’m going to continue with this approach for now and if my luck continues I will see if the dealer might be willing to replace the plug receptacle.

 

@Dave B.
Does the cable really lock into the car socket?
After you hear the locking actuator operate and charging starts, can you pull the cable out? If so, it would suggest that the socket is broken at where the hook on the plug should be locking the cable.

 

Dave B. - I concur with aye pace in that when the plug locks into the vehicle you should be assured of a charge starting. And you should not be able to remove the plug until you disengage it either mechanically or electronically irrespective of whether or not the charging is complete. Or met the charging limit that you have prescribed in the vehicle.

A word of caution if your plug is not seating well with the vehicle. Since we are dealing with high amperage and relatively high voltages especially if you have a 220 V connection then wiggling the plug around may cause sparking and arking in the vehicle and thereby damage the electronic components in the vehicle.

My recommendation is that if it does wiggle around in the socket which it should not do then take it into the dealership and get the socket replaced as soon as possible.

 

There won't be HV present if the proximity wire loses connection. This would be the first connection to break as the cable comes loose. One could try the test of physical connection with the charger powered off by switch, circuit breaker or unplugging it (whichever is possible and convenient).

There wouldn't be sparks as described. I had to use a DCFC with a connector with a deliberately broken off (sabotaged) hook once. The cable came loose. No sparks. I had to reattach and hold it while charging.

The point of this test is to verify that the socket isn't holding the connector in as snug as it should be with the latching hook.

 

I agree with Ayepace to test the circuit with the electricity powered off - that is the safest way to check the connection. However with the power off there would be no way to note from any display whether or not you're actually interrupting the flow of electricity to the vehicle unless you have special monitoring equipment.

I'm not talking about external sparks or arching external to the vehicle. The human being is safe guarded because of the plastic nonconductive material used at the plugs. I am talking about surges in dc volts & amperage within the vehicle which can damage sensitive digital equipment and perhaps destroy it.

I'll stick with my suggestion of taking the vehicle into the dealership and stopping the maneuvering and wiggling of the plug to get it charged.

 

When you plug the L2 charger into the car, there is a couple of data you can check on the BCCM module with the OBD2 port to validate that everything is ok :

1. Battery charger proximity voltage : this will indicate that the proximity pin is properly secured in the car and the pin can be recognized
2. Lock 1 supply voltage(Battery charger inlet lock data) : this will indicate that the locking mecanism is energized
3. Control pilot voltage(Battery charger control pilot values) : This will indicate that the control pin is properly secured in the car and the pin can be recognized
4. Control pilot duty cycle(Battery charger control pilot values) : this will indicate the result of the negociation between the car and the charger.
5. Position(Battery charger inlet lock motor 1) : this will indicate if the lock mecanism is properly locked
6. Position(Battery charger inlet lock motor 2) : no idea....
7. State(Battery charger control pilot data)
8. Mode(Battery charger control pilot data) : indicate if charge is ready

I don't know all PID for those parameters, but if you are interested , I can try to find out.

 

Thanks everyone for your comments and suggestions. Upon close inspection from what I can see the plug is securely connecting and I have now had 4 straight successful charges with the only obvious thing I have done differently being fully uncoiling the charger cable. I;m going to continue with this approach for a while and hopefully it continues to work.

 

Hi Dave B.

This is a little late in responding but if the only thing that you've changed is uncoiling the cable then my suggestion is that you get a new cable before continuing . The cable is most likely has a fault / intermittent open in it and that by unwinding it allows a viable connection. Ultimately it will break again. This is an easy check withan ohm by an electrician with the power off.
Also intermittent power surges may create problems for your vehicle and ultimately cause a fault in one of the electronic components in the battery charging system.

 

I'm in the US. For well over year, I lived with hit and miss charging on my 48A level 2 charger (ChargePoint) with my 2023 model. The symptom was plug it in, car thinks it is initiating a charge and detects available current level, and says its charging. But it never draws current. Charger's relay clicks off stopping charge session, but car still thinks its being charged. The Jaguar supplied level 1 charger always worked. I replaced the charger under warranty, but same problem. So, it must be the car. Dealer never figured it out (until recently). Trying to solve it, they replaced the receptacle and bccm over a 3 week period, and then gave it back with traction battery fault (72% max charge, when it would charge). They indicated they needed to replace battery modules. Eventually after another couple months in the Shop, I got it home with the traction battery charging to 100%, but the original problem remained - hit and miss chance the car will initiate drawing current (mostly miss). I bought a 48A DeWalt charger, yes they make an EV charger, because it displays on the unit real time current and voltage plus it has diagnostic error codes - something other brands don't. I suspected maybe my home 240V service was fluctuating and not delivering the necessary voltage. The charger proved otherwise as I averaged between 241 and 248V. When my car failed to charge, a neighbor immediately hooked up his and it charged fine, then back to mine and it failed to draw current. So, clearly it is not the chargers, not my electric service, and is the car. I engaged with the dealer once more, and they suggested a buck / boost transformer which I assumed would be configured to boost the service higher by ~10%. When the electrician came to install, he actually bucked it down 10% to about 217V give or take as my service fluctuates. He said it's a common problem with the I-Pace. Who knew? Since then, no problems. It's been a month, and it charges each time. Granted, I don't get the full kW my circuit's amperage could deliver, but its still pretty high and easily charges from 20% to 100% in a night. Once you've lived with level 1, it feels like luxury. Finally, we get to enjoy a great car. So, my point of this story is that your charging issues might not be the car (solely), but rather could be fluctuations in your electric service with the occasional spike in voltage. Apparently the I-Pace is a bit finicky and doesn't handle level 2 AC voltages above a certain level very well. If the dealer just knew this, they could have saved themselves and me a lot if heartache, frustration, and money. I hope this helps some other struggling person.

 

Wow. That could be just what I need. My only reservation is that I have tried using other Level 2 chargers and experienced the same issue which would imply that their power sources were also higher than what the i-Pace is looking for. Still, at this point it is worth a try as my car is currently back with the dealer and they are no closer to identifying the root cause.

 

MY I PACE NO LONGER ACCEPTS CHARGING.
No error messages on the instrument cluster.
Mileage range remaining sinking down to 0.
The car is on its last quarter tank of electrons.

The EV HV recharge plug on the left front fender was replaced 2 years ago on my vehicle. I tried 2 different Level 2 chargers... same observation: about 1 second of charging, then 15 to 60 seconds of nothing. Vehicle dash panel says either "Charging" or "Initializing". A Level3 charger gave the error message "Abnormal Communication" and aborted the recharge attempt. The vehicle's dash panel does not give any error messages. Our 2019 I Pace car has become unusable. Only 48 miles remains on its remaining distance meter...I will be using the remaining 18% State of Charge to take the car to the dealer for the buy back, even though JLR and myself have not made a final agreement. The car is no longer usable, I can't drive it anywhere. Can't recharge it... it will be just a dust collector in the garage

 

MY I PACE NO LONGER ACCEPTS CHARGING.
No error messages on the instrument cluster.
Mileage range remaining sinking down to 0.
The car is on its last quarter tank of electrons.

The EV HV recharge plug on the left front fender was replaced 2 years ago on my vehicle. I tried 2 different Level 2 chargers... same observation: about 1 second of charging, then 15 to 60 seconds of nothing. Vehicle dash panel says either "Charging" or "Initializing". A Level3 charger gave the error message "Abnormal Communication" and aborted the recharge attempt. The vehicle's dash panel does not give any error messages. Our 2019 I Pace car has become unusable. Only 48 miles remains on its remaining distance meter...I will be using the remaining 18% State of Charge to take the car to the dealer for the buy back, even though JLR and myself have not made a final agreement. The car is no longer usable, I can't drive it anywhere. Can't recharge it... it will be just a dust collector in the garage

Try a level 1 charger (110V), see if that works.

 

Hi all. I have not responded in quite some time to this charging issue since I resolved my problem with effectively purchasing a brand new 2024 ipace.
My issue with my 2023 I pace was just like Dave B's. On my home level 2 charging system using 3 different charging platforms my 2023 ipace would pause charging. In fact the word "paused" would appear on the display panel in front of the steering wheel which for me is on the left side.
It would also pause charging using the 115 volt 20 amp circuit that's in my garage.
My local dealership replaced the plug in module on the vehicle as well as the BCCM module in the vehicle. This did nothing to improve my charging capability which basically prevented me from charging the vehicle at home. It would charge very well and easily at the dealership but not at my house. The dealership had a level 3 charging system but only a 150 kW system as supposed to the higher amperage FCDC charging at public charging stations.
After 6 months with my 2024 ipace I have had no issues with charging at home using the same chargers as I had before and making no changes to my home's electrical system. JLR made me go and pay for a licensed electrical contractor to come and inspect my home's electrical system and he found no problems with my 240v 50 amp circuit. He found no variance in the voltage either under load or without a load. And yes the draw on the amps is dependent on the load of the system.
I was also able to charge 2 or 3 other models of EVs with no problem at my house.

This is a very complex problem that Jaguar is not owning up to in a very good way and making it very difficult for I pace owners to resolve.
I also purchased a buck boost isolation transformer but it did not resolve the problem.
In fact it almost burned down my garage & home because it overheated and melted the plastic placard that was on the front of the buck boost transformer box. JLR may be very good at mechanical issues but they're not very good with electrical issues and never have been. When Ford bought Jaguar back in the 90s the first thing they did was replace the electrical wiring harnesses in the vehicle and replace gasket materials to stop all the oil leaks.

Hth all of this adds to the discovery of the real issue. Because like so many others I really do enjoy driving my I-Pace.

 

Thanks for weighing in. My electrician is skeptical of the buck/boost option so I have not tried that yet. My car is still at the dealers and they are 'exploring' other options. Before I did the battery pack replacement I never had any charging issues. The inconssitency of the issue does make it hard to problem solve but based on the volume and variety of the charging issues faced by i-Pace owners I would hope JLR would be able to provide more leadership and an effective solution. Fingers crossed...

 

Thanks for weighing in. My electrician is skeptical of the buck/boost option so I have not tried that yet. My car is still at the dealers and they are 'exploring' other options. Before I did the battery pack replacement I never had any charging issues. The inconsistency of the issue does make it hard to problem solve but based on the volume and variety of the charging issues faced by i-Pace owners I would hope JLR would be able to provide more leadership and an effective solution. Fingers crossed...

I'd be skeptical too. In fact it never occurred to me. But then I learned that the UK has a 230V standard for their service, and I was thinking, yeah, okay, so maybe the JLR engineers in the UK targeted that 230V allowing for a variance up to 240, but just barely apparently (in my experience). Of course no other manufacturer seems to have this limitation. Anyway, I only know what works for me, and the electrician that installed it said my situation is a common problem that he's implemented for the dealership a lot, and this is the solution. As an FYI - the electrician service (his company) to do this work was setup by my local dealership, it was not me seeking and hiring the work.

To Bob999's point on heat, the transformer does generate heat, and the electrician and I were chatting while he installed it. I saw him crimping a sleeve over the stripped stranded conductors before inserting into the plastic junction lugs (that connects the wires). I asked if that was to ensure a solid connection across the strands, because I expected him to use a hydraulic crimper which is what I used to install my DeWalt charger that required terminals be connected to the conductors (they're #6 gauge conductors, so you'd have to be incredibly strong to properly crimp the terminals securely). Anyway, he said, no. He uses the sleeve because they used to have overheating problems with this plastic junctions where they'd melt and it took them awhile before they figured out that this technique successfully resolves it. So, I'm thinking, here's a master electrician not realizing that trying to push current across less conductor metal than is needed is going to overheat it (assuming using the raw strands were not all making solid contact). It totally makes sense to use a sleeve and get full contact with the connector inside the junction. But what struct me as expedient is that he didn't use a hydraulic crimper on such a large gauge. He's either really strong (way more than me), or it just isn't that critical to get it so tight - which I just don't believe. Regardless, I have been keeping my eye on it just the same, and now almost 3 months of use and no problems. I have stress tested it a few times, doing a ~16% to 100% charge to try to hit a near maximum duration charging session at the maximum kW my Homeflex 48A will supply with the bucked down voltage. All good so far.

Perhaps the dealership will cover the bill to have an electrician check your service at the house. If mine did that 2 years ago, they would have saved themselves a huge expense in warranty covered materials cost and labor. Of course it's hard to know from a single test as service will vary based upon load across the region which can fluctuate with time of day, but maybe it'll show a higher then 240 voltage. I do recall having more of a probability to charge in the mid-morning and early afternoon, and a lot less likelihood to charge in the evening and at night - which stands to reason since this fluctuation coincides with area-wide service demand. Also, you'd think dealerships communicate with one another or with/from JLR North America to share such information. They should know, but apparently they don't.

Good luck with it.

 

Denver Alex,
Thnak you for your detailed feedback. As you say, it is a shame that JLR doesn't seem to have an effective means of sharing potential solutions for this common issue. Would you be able to rpovide me with your Dealer name and contact info? Also, the make and model of the buck/boost transformer that you are using. Thanks!

 

Hi Dave. I am so sorry. I don't get alerts from the forum, so I didn't know you had a follow-up question. I only pop into to forum on occasion (rarely) when I am following an interest. Okay apologies aside, let me respond.

You probably figured out on your own that the dealership is Jaguar Lakewood. If you used the retailer search by city for Denver Colorado (Find a Jaguar Retailer | Jaguar USA), there is only one that sells new vehicles (Contact Jaguar Lakewood | Lakewood CO Jaguar Dealer). That should allow you to reach out, if needed. I have not explored other of your posts yet to know, but considering it's been nearly 3 months, I figure you have your issue resolved by now, or you just gave up. I hope you didn't give up.

As for the model of the buck/boost transformer, it is Federal Pacific, catalog number K1XGF12-1.5 (https://www.fptonline.com/Images/TechDataSheets/K1XGF12-1.5.PDF)

The master electrician that installed it was from this business: Dutch Creek Electric (Electrician in Denver, CO | Dutch Creek Electric).

I will tell you plainly that installing this transformer is not a do-it-yourself kind of thing. The device has an octopus of conductors, of which only some will get used depending on your situation, and while the wiring diagram appears straight forward on the PDF (above link), it was not so simple. I've done a lot of inspected residential electrical work (it's allowed by homeowners in my jurisdiction), and this isn't something I would feel comfortable doing. In fact, the way in which the electrician used crimped sleeves on the braided conductors when putting them into junction isn't something I would have necessarily considered, and in fact they didn't used to do it until they learned the hard way it was necessary to properly reduce resistance and keep heat down to stay within spec of the junction blocks that they use (without which they could overheat damaging the junction).

 

Thanks Alex for both of your posts!

 

I had tremendous problems charging my first ipace. My dealership was nice enough to buy me a buck boost transformer that I bought from a company in Texas. I don't recommend them because they are technically incompetent and very hard to connect with and don't stand behind their products. But in dealing with them I did learn a lot about buck boost Transformers.
If you already have a 240 V connection in your garage then my suggestion is to talk to the company and have them put a doggle on the book boost transformer that allows you to connect directly the 240 V plug in to your outlet but make sure you tell the company exactly what the Ambridge is on your 240 V outlet.
Since the buck boost transformer sits between your 240 V outlet and your charger you will also need to tell the company you select to put on a plug that allows you to connect your charger to the output of the bookboost Transformer.
At this point then you don't need to hire electrician all you need to do is to hang the buckboost transformer on your garage wall and plug in the 2 connections.

 

I have a Juicebox Pro 40 (old design) and 240V service. Back when the app for the charger was useful, it showed actual input voltage as high as 248V on occasion but usually 242-244V. I haven't had issues with charging with it. I do have a surge suppressor on the entrance panel.

I have a ChargePoint Home Flex charger too. It became useless after ChargePoint pushed out an update last March. It was reliable before that.

The claim that the engineering of the car components not being designed for various worldwide conditions is unfounded. Any proof to back up this claim?