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Yes, I've had that same problem with my one-month-old i-Pace. Twice now, the temperature setting (which is set to Fahrenheit) will come on in Centigrade until I turn the car off. Echoes of a "hard re-boot" in the technology world...
 

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Yes, I've had that same problem with my one-month-old i-Pace. Twice now, the temperature setting (which is set to Fahrenheit) will come on in Centigrade until I turn the car off. Echoes of a "hard re-boot" in the technology world...
Its actually part of an evil plot to finally force the US to the metric system...
 

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I can cope with that (especially since the number it shows IS the Centigrade equivalent to the Fahrenheit setting you last set, so it's just a question of "do you want it a little warmer?" and probably you wouldn't want to change it at all).

As long as it doesn't flip to KM all on its own ... !!!!!
 

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Its actually part of an evil plot to finally force the US to the metric system...
We shall fight on the beaches, we shall fight on the landing grounds, we shall fight in the fields and in the streets, we shall fight in the hills; we shall never surrender!
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Yes, I've had that same problem with my one-month-old i-Pace. Twice now, the temperature setting (which is set to Fahrenheit) will come on in Centigrade until I turn the car off. Echoes of a "hard re-boot" in the technology world...
So I have this same problem very so often, however I discovered almost by mistake that when it happens all you have to do is start raising the temperature and it jumps back to Fahrenheit. See if that works.
 

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We shall fight on the beaches, we shall fight on the landing grounds, we shall fight in the fields and in the streets, we shall fight in the hills; we shall never surrender!
I am so conflicted about this! I use miles and celsius! I guess I'm British in spirit, a recombination of the American distance metric (which I've grown to appreciate) and the rationally scientific temperature metric (which is the only metric other than Kelvin that makes sense for temperature).

P.s.: I mean I'm using 'miles' in America, I didn't mean to imply that I thought miles were originally American
 

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I don't understand the problem. Back when I was in elementary school they let us know that we were switching to metric by 1975.:confused:

But I think we were supposed to be flying our cars to work by 1984, so there's that.:grin2:

I started out training as a machinist at 17, and now own a dimensional inspection laboratory, so I've witnessed first hand how slow the change has been. Medical devices, aerospace, and automotive are already changed over except for rare exceptions. We are left with a thin coating of general information that remains Imperial.

Some real oddities:

Metric wheels and tires are designated in inches. 275/40-17 is Metric, Percentage, Inches.
Power output for an electric car is stated as horsepower more often than not. Even though it's specifically kilowatts, which require no translation.
 
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So, maybe I've missed this in all the possible places it could show up, but I don't remember anybody else bring it up ...

What happened to me today was a variation on the black screens, I think. The Main Screen light up showing the cat logo and the message to "touch the screen to acknowledge" (or whatever ...), and the radio came on for about 2 seconds, then went quiet. And, the lower screen did not light. I could put it in drive and move, but I just shut it off, and locked & waited a minute.

Then, I restarted, and it seemed to do the same thing except no radio at all. So, I just started to drive, went around a corner, and suddenly it all light up, the radio came on, and it all appeared normal - it was just a REALLLLLYYYY slow boot.

First/Only such issue with my new HSE.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
So, maybe I've missed this in all the possible places it could show up, but I don't remember anybody else bring it up ...

What happened to me today was a variation on the black screens, I think. The Main Screen light up showing the cat logo and the message to "touch the screen to acknowledge" (or whatever ...), and the radio came on for about 2 seconds, then went quiet. And, the lower screen did not light. I could put it in drive and move, but I just shut it off, and locked & waited a minute.

Then, I restarted, and it seemed to do the same thing except no radio at all. So, I just started to drive, went around a corner, and suddenly it all light up, the radio came on, and it all appeared normal - it was just a REALLLLLYYYY slow boot.

First/Only such issue with my new HSE.
So I have "measuring" the boot times by comparing how long it took to service the drivers display with the Map, which seems to be the last item in the boot even after the center display gets the map data. With almost no rime or reason it has varied between 25 and 65 seconds.

Today for the very first (over 30 days after purchase) I got the blank screens in the center and lower displays. I shut off the car, got out locked it, walk 20 feet away turned around and unlocked the car, and started up and everything was normal again.

The only thing different I did was on the start before I did check for software update status (which I do rarely), and I checked for the status of the Navigation data which I had only done once before. I think there might be a slight correlation there because the only other weird thing I have had happen in the last 4 weeks is that my temperature controls had reverted to Celsius, for a few seconds, once again after the start before I had checked the Nav Data update status.
 

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Keep in mind that many of these quirks look all too familiar to those of us that have endured Windows over many years. Here's my suggestion which seems to provide a reliable platform. Start the car. Tap the screen when the Jaguar icon appears. Tap the Navigation choice on the center display when the 3-option window appears. Then sit quietly with your hands folded in your lap until the map appears on BOTH the center display and the dashboard. Then and only then shift into Drive or Reverse.

If it makes anyone feel better, our 2018 Range Rover has the identical quirks. Given that our Range Rover is almost a year old, I don't think these quirks are likely to disappear any time soon. After all, it's Windows. Attempting to interact with the car's GUI before the OS is completely booted will probably always get you in trouble. And starting to drive before the boot up finishes seems to cause issues with the boot procedure.

Intro to Windows IOT
 

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Keep in mind that many of these quirks look all too familiar to those of us that have endured Windows over many years. Here's my suggestion which seems to provide a reliable platform. Start the car. Tap the screen when the Jaguar icon appears. Tap the Navigation choice on the center display when the 3-option window appears. Then sit quietly with your hands folded in your lap until the map appears on BOTH the center display and the dashboard. Then and only then shift into Drive or Reverse.

If it makes anyone feel better, our 2018 Range Rover has the identical quirks. Given that our Range Rover is almost a year old, I don't think these quirks are likely to disappear any time soon. After all, it's Windows. Attempting to interact with the car's GUI before the OS is completely booted will probably always get you in trouble.

Intro to Windows IOT
Or just get in and drive without being overly concerned about this and I think you will discover that the issue self resolves 99.9% of the time, if not while driving, the next time you use the car. I suppose I could just be super lucky, but in 3000 miles/7 weeks I haven’t had any blank screens last beyond a single trip and then only a few times at all.
 

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MS IOT and Jaguar

To the scientifically illiterate amongst us, what is MS IOT please? Thanks
Hi JonB _Microsoft Internet of Things.
https://gotmdm.com/business/2017/02/microsoft-connected-vehicle-platform-tata-motors/

Article about the platform and the partnership between Microsoft, Tata Motors, and Jagaua/Land Rover. Most is in English, but some parts are in French and you can Google Translate. The primary purpose is this becomes the platform for driverless cars.

Sean
 

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Coming up on 2 weeks and 500mi... and no disrespect, like #Dantrium I'm far too impatient to follow #McRat's 'boot up' procedure, I jump in and go like with any other car... yet only once (in about 20 trips, all of which have involved backing in/out of garage and/or parking spaces multiple times) have I had any issue: ONCE the rear camera did NOT appear upon shift into R. Solution, I shifted back into P, clicked the camera button on the main screen, shifted to R, and the rear camera appeared on main screen as usual. Granted, I took delivery just after the pre-holiday software update (S18C_) but I have had a trouble-free (and fun-filled) first 2 weeks!
 

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If you feel brave, this was released on 16 DEC 2018. They still do not know the true cause of the Blank Screens. They are collecting surveys from techs who are working on the cars to try and isolate it. But to try and 'fix' the problem, JLR is telling their techs to:

Reset Procedure:

1) IDMA Reset:
Pull Fuse 1 (15A) from the QUIESCENT CURRENT CONTROL MODULE, located Right Hand rear quarter trim panel
If this resolves the issue please, reset is complete.
If issue is still present continue with step 2

2) IMC Reset:
Pull Fuse 5 (15A) from the QUIESCENT CURRENT CONTROL MODULE, located Right Hand rear quarter trim panel
If this resolves the issue please, reset is complete.
If issue is still present continue with step 3

3) SICP Reset:
Pull Fuse 15 (15A) from the QUIESCENT CURRENT CONTROL MODULE, located Right Hand rear quarter trim panel
If this resolves the issue please, reset is complete
If issue is still present continue with step 4


4) Quick power mode cycle:
Turn Ignition off
Wait for 15 seconds
Turn Ignition On
If this resolves the issue please, reset is complete
If issue is still present continue with step 5

5) Quick sleep cycle:
Turn Ignition off
Single lock vehicle
Wait for 10 mins
Enter Vehicle
Power on vehicle. Start vehicle (Press brake pedal, Ignition on).
If this resolves the issue please, reset is complete
If issue is still present continue with step 6

6) Battery hard reset:
Remove 12V Main battery (T4) negative terminal.
Wait for 10 seconds.
Connect 12V Main battery (T4) negative terminal.
If this resolves the issue please, reset is complete.

Still nothing? Escalate.
 

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Thanks @McRat. When mine went missing for 4.5 days, I tried #4, #5, and #6, but had not pulled any fuses for the modules. The hard reset (#6) didn't work by itself. Then magically it came back on while driving a day after the hard reset. Will be interested in hearing from folks who did go in for service or tried any of the resets on their own.
 

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If you feel brave, this was released on 16 DEC 2018. They still do not know the true cause of the Blank Screens. They are collecting surveys from techs who are working on the cars to try and isolate it. But to try and 'fix' the problem, JLR is telling their techs to:

Reset Procedure:

1) IDMA Reset:
Pull Fuse 1 (15A) from the QUIESCENT CURRENT CONTROL MODULE, located Right Hand rear quarter trim panel
If this resolves the issue please, reset is complete.
If issue is still present continue with step 2

2) IMC Reset:
Pull Fuse 5 (15A) from the QUIESCENT CURRENT CONTROL MODULE, located Right Hand rear quarter trim panel
If this resolves the issue please, reset is complete.
If issue is still present continue with step 3

3) SICP Reset:
Pull Fuse 15 (15A) from the QUIESCENT CURRENT CONTROL MODULE, located Right Hand rear quarter trim panel
If this resolves the issue please, reset is complete
If issue is still present continue with step 4


4) Quick power mode cycle:
Turn Ignition off
Wait for 15 seconds
Turn Ignition On
If this resolves the issue please, reset is complete
If issue is still present continue with step 5

5) Quick sleep cycle:
Turn Ignition off
Single lock vehicle
Wait for 10 mins
Enter Vehicle
Power on vehicle. Start vehicle (Press brake pedal, Ignition on).
If this resolves the issue please, reset is complete
If issue is still present continue with step 6

6) Battery hard reset:
Remove 12V Main battery (T4) negative terminal.
Wait for 10 seconds.
Connect 12V Main battery (T4) negative terminal.
If this resolves the issue please, reset is complete.

Still nothing? Escalate.
Did you recently bring your car in? What versions of software do you have now?
 

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Did you recently bring your car in? What versions of software do you have now?
Bringing my car in did not work so well. I made an appointment a week in advance, received an email confirmation, then arrived early, first in line. I was told I wasn't on the 'list'. I told them to check again. They said they 'found' me, but would look at my car in 6 days.
I hesitated. Finally I said OK. I went back to work, but it was bugging me. All I needed was somebody to plug in the Dealer Tool, read the codes, then flash the "D" change infotainment.

So I called them back, and told them my car ran fine, and I'd wait until something more serious came up. I picked the car up, and the stereo was set to FM on a Spanish station, and the passenger seat was fully reclined. Meh.

My car was delivered with a "C" revision, and the "D" has been out since 12/12. But what I was really curious about was the Traction Battery Warning message that went away, and stayed gone.

So I will wait for the Battery Computer revision which is due in January. I bought a brief subscription to TOPIx, which is JLR's service information. I want to understand more about the car.

I did learn there was a:

NEW VEHICLE HANDOVER RECORD I-PACE 19MY
This document should be used alongside the Handover Reference Guide


Apparently they had a checklist to go over with the new owner and get their signature. Nope. I was on my own with just enough electricity to get home on a rainy night.
So I will teach myself the NVHR material from TOPIx.

Love the car, not too happy with the dealer service.
 
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