Thinner pads on street cars shouldn't wear much faster as they get thinner because the temps are so low. Track car pads wear faster as they get thinner since they hotter and have less material to hold heat.

 

I am using the tapered wear indicators on the ends of the pads to determine the wear on the pads. When the indicators go away you should change the pads. My front pads show hardly any wear, per the indicators. My rear pads only have about 1/3 of the indicators left. I have the brake alarm sealed in on my dash. To clear it only requires you to wiggle the indicator wires. Don't press the pedal all the way down when you start the car and don't use the brakes driving! No special reset needed.

 

I replaced my rear brake pads yesterday. Here is what I did. This procedure takes some steps from multiple other procedures, & allows the parking brake to be released when removing and installing new rear brake pads. This procedure, as written, may require small hands.
Step #1. READ STEPS #14 & 15.
#2 Block at least one of the wheels on the car to ensure the car does not roll away.
#3 Close all doors & hatches in the car, with you in the drivers seat with the electronic key.
#4.This procedure requires the vehicle in the Park or Neutral position, with the ignition turned ON and the parking brake system released.
(Time Critical steps below, but 1-2 seconds is OK. Practice 1st). .
#5. The Parking Brake pull release handle: Pull toward you and continue to hold (until step 8). Wait ~1 second, then do #6
#6.The accelerator pedal: Push the pedal down to the wide open throttle position (until step8). Wait ~1 second, then do #7
#7. Push the ignition button Off, then verify the red parking light is extinguished.
#8. Release the Accelerator pedal and Release the Parking Brake Switch handle.
#9.Lift and secure the vehicle for safe working under it & remove the Appropriate wheel. You can verify that the wheel/hubs move some when loosening the lug nuts.
#10. Remove the outer brake pad anti-rattle spring by using a screw driver. New pads come with new springs.
#11. Install a ~>1' high stool behind the brake assembly to set the assembly on. Leave all hoses and wires attached.
#12. Remove the whole EPB caliper & assembly by removing two, 15mm head bolts holding the caliper to the hub.
They are in the back of the caliper. I had to use a 3/8" ratchet & 15mm short socket & my fingers, to remove & install these bolts.
The bolts required a plastic hammer blow to the ratchet handle, to break the bolts loose.
#13. Set the assembly on the stool being careful with the wires and hose.
Important, Below step*
#14. Remove some brake fluid from the reservoir. I used a paper towel sheet folded up to resemble a big tampon. Remove the brake reservoir cap and put a towel around the fill hole. Dip it in the reservoir for ~5 seconds, then pull it out and throw it away. Repeat ~3 times.
#15 The piston in the caliper, needs to be wound back into the caliper. Turning it clockwise until it stops turning. Use a big needle nose pliers in the piston slots to turn it in clockwise. If this doesn't work well, you can take a large pliers on the outer edge of the piston and turn it in, being careful not to get on, or damage the rubber dirt protector, on the back edge of the piston. My pistons each required ~ 3 full turns in until they reach their max in stop. I had ~58,000 miles on my car when performing this.
#16. Repeat step #14!
#17. Once the piston bottoms out, with the screw all the way in, it has to be pushed in the final distance. Use a very large pliers to do this.
#18. Repeat step #14!
#19. Remove the old brake pads. The wear warning wire attaches to the brake pads. Note how it is a "slide in a groove" at the bottom center of the inner pad. Grease the new brake pads backs & fingers, with the lube that comes with the pads.
#20. Install the new brake pads slowly and carefully.
#21. Mount the whole assembly back on the disk when done.
#22. Small fingers required to start the to caliper support bolts back into holding the brake assemble.
#23. Install the outer steel antichatter spring on the outside pad.
#24 Reinstall the wheels. Tighten lug nuts to 125Nm. (I do 90ftlbs on all my vehicles.)
#25 Operate the brake pedal several times.
#26. Check the brake fluid level again.

The steps below, allows the parking brake to be reactivated after replacing the pads or discs. It works on my 2019 I-Pace.
#27. Get in the car with all doors closed & start the car normally.
#28. Stop the car by pushing the off button.
#29. Verify the red parking light is on (located on the left dash).
Some tools needed: Jack, 2-4 blocks of wood for front tire jamming, ~12" high stool, medium screwdriver (to pry out anti-rattle spring), 3/8" ratchet & 15mm socket, small Pliers to release wire holder from brackets, medium large pliers to turn brake pistons in, very large pliers to push piston in after screwing in, sockets for wheel lugs, torque wrench.
Originally posted by: @Ayepace - Thank you for your time, very much appreciated.
Highly edited for just pad replacement by Trielectric from actual experience.
Used Auto Nation Parts for some Brembo pads for $97.

 

Many auto part stores rent a brake piston wind back tool. Some do this for free when you place a refundable deposit. This is a lot easier needlenose pliers. You really shouldn't need to push the pistons in after screwing them in completely.

Front brakes will not need the pistons rewound into the calipers. They just press in.

 

You really shouldn't need to push the pistons in after screwing them in completely.

Thats what I thought too. It is a solid stop on the pistons when you are turning them in. The reality sets in when you realize those 3 turns on the piston will not come close to letting new brake pads fit in the small space. In addition, the level in the reservoir hardly changed at all, after screwing the pistons in. You could probably push the piston back in with your thumbs, but the big pliers made it easy. The new pads then had just enough clearance to fit in the spots. It also made screwing the piston in first, a good idea, because when you push it back in with the pliers it is almost flush with the caliper housing, which would have made screwing it in much harder. There is a YouTube on the internet where a guy screws it in with this big contraption made for the job. It is a pain in the *. Then he tries a block of steel with pegs on it made for the job with a 3/8" drive for a ratchet. It is quicker, but he still has to keep it from falling out. Then he grabs a big set of needle nose pliers and it take him about 30seconds to screw it in!

 

I just realized I never installed the rear pads and rotors I purchased from Amazon. I need to put them up for sale since my 2019 will be repurchased.

Also, I recommend using a stainless steel Turkey Baster to remove extra brake fluid. A paper towel might transfer impurities into the fluid.