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Getting used to the new car - so far so good. Just wondering about preconditioning the battery before driving. Is there an ambient temperature where preconditioning doesn't really help much with efficiency? My garage temp even in the winter rarely goes below 11C or 52F. I preconditioned for about 30 mins with the ambient around 17C or 62F today before leaving. Using a juicebox40A.

According to the journey log my efficiency improved to 21.1kWh/100km compared to 23.8 kWh/100km for the same trip a few days ago. I also did switch from comfort to ECO mode.

So just wondering if there are days where I just shouldn't bother preconditioning - in the summer when temps are 24c-27c, or 75-80F?.

G
 

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Getting used to the new car - so far so good. Just wondering about preconditioning the battery before driving. Is there an ambient temperature where preconditioning doesn't really help much with efficiency? My garage temp even in the winter rarely goes below 11C or 52F. I preconditioned for about 30 mins with the ambient around 17C or 62F today before leaving. Using a juicebox40A.

According to the journey log my efficiency improved to 21.1kWh/100km compared to 23.8 kWh/100km for the same trip a few days ago. I also did switch from comfort to ECO mode.

So just wondering if there are days where I just shouldn't bother preconditioning - in the summer when temps are 24c-27c, or 75-80F?.

G
Hi G,

Just searching the forums looking for comments about the effect of preconditioning on consumption/range. Have you (or others) got much of a sense of how much preconditioning the car/battery helps?
 

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It makes a significant difference, this preconditioning. At 5°C, climate preconditioning will draw around 2kWh in 20mins to heat up the cabin. Those same kWh you would spend from the battery while driving in the first 20mins anyway, so for me that is a no-brainer.

For Battery preconditioning, about 12% difference, or 3kWh/100km/almost 5kWh/100mi.
I did the same run twice, with and without battery preconditioning. Climate preconditioning in both cases, ECO mode for both.
At 5°C over 90km of highway I achieved 25kWh/100km (aka 40kWh/100mi or 2.5mi/kWh) when looking only at the high speed stretch (130kmh, 81mph). Without battery preconditioning, consumption was 28kWh/100km.
Overall, so including lower speed stretches and traffic jams and detours, with preconditioning I achieved 22.5kWh/100 vs 25.5 without.
 

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It makes a significant difference, this preconditioning. At 5°C, climate preconditioning will draw around 2kWh in 20mins to heat up the cabin. Those same kWh you would spend from the battery while driving in the first 20mins anyway, so for me that is a no-brainer.

For Battery preconditioning, about 12% difference, or 3kWh/100km/almost 5kWh/100mi.
I did the same run twice, with and without battery preconditioning. Climate preconditioning in both cases, ECO mode for both.
At 5°C over 90km of highway I achieved 25kWh/100km (aka 40kWh/100mi or 2.5mi/kWh) when looking only at the high speed stretch (130kmh, 81mph). Without battery preconditioning, consumption was 28kWh/100km.
Overall, so including lower speed stretches and traffic jams and detours, with preconditioning I achieved 22.5kWh/100 vs 25.5 without.
Thanks G
I noticed similar results. Did a little 80-90km trip last week with no preconditioning - some city traffic and about 60km of 100km/hr highway driving up and down some hills. No preconditioning was bang on 25kwh/100km. With preconditioning for the same trip this past weekend (similar temps) I saw 22.6 kWh/100km.

For day to day trips to work or around town, not much point apart from warming the car up for my cold hands. But for a longer journey where reaching a DCFC station might be important, the extra range or improved consumption achieved by plugging in, charging to 100%SOC and preconditioning likely helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't precondition for my 30 minute commute. For long trips to the cottage it helps to maximize the range. Nice to have a warm car in the morning if you're parked outside or garage is very cold.
 

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Forgive me if I'm stating something obvious here but I thought I'd take the opportunity to point out a couple of factoids to the folks that are reading this thread because JLR's explanation of preconditioning is confusing.

There's cabin preconditioning, which you can use to warm up (or cool down) the kitty's interior whether or not the vehicle is plugged in.
Then there's battery preconditioning, which only happens if you have the vehicle plugged in and you do cabin preconditioning.

It's my understanding that when the battery is cold because you're in Minnesota in January or god forbid Saskatchewan (in January too) or even New Hampshire in February or Northern Sweden at any time ... When the battery is cold, battery preconditioning will warm it up so that it's at a better operating temperature during your drive, which saves energy overall. And of course you'll have used the grid and not your battery to warm up the cabin to nice and warm in your brutal Siberian conditions, which helps too.

By the same token, if you're in Phoenix or Needles or Death Valley in July or Alice Springs in January, preconditioning will cool the battery when you're plugged into a fast charger, which would otherwise bring the battery temperature to undesirable levels even higher than the ambient temperature. 🍺
 

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....For Battery preconditioning, about 12% difference, or 3kWh/100km/almost 5kWh/100mi.
I did the same run twice, with and without battery preconditioning. Climate preconditioning in both cases, ECO mode for both.
At 5°C over 90km of highway I achieved 25kWh/100km (aka 40kWh/100mi or 2.5mi/kWh) when looking only at the high speed stretch (130kmh, 81mph). Without battery preconditioning, consumption was 28kWh/100km.
Overall, so including lower speed stretches and traffic jams and detours, with preconditioning I achieved 22.5kWh/100 vs 25.5 without.
Nice data but be careful about the conclusions.

What you are quoting is energy usage over 90km, massaged to x kWh/100km. This should not be used to compute the energy usage for the next 90km since at this point the battery should be at approximately the same temperature in both scenarios.
I agree that this indicates an ~ 3kWh cost for bringing the battery up to temperature, but this is a one off cost. If we assume a range of 240miles on a full charge (not likely in mid winter) this 3kWh cost would equate to less than 10miles of lost range over a long journey.
Preconditioning the battery (and cabin) prior to a winter journey does no harm, but doesn't provide tremendous advantages.
 

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The trip from my home to the ski hill is 250km, the last 18km being from sea level straight up to 1200m.

If I fully charge my car and then precondition, the extra 10km of range might make all the difference!! I can pretty much make it up on a full charge without too much concern, but the extra buffer would be reassuring.

Of course, coming home I coast straight down the hill and add a bunch of range (if I'm not fully charged before we leave the hill).
 

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.....If I fully charge my car and then precondition, the extra 10km of range might make all the difference!! I can pretty much make it up on a full charge without too much concern, but the extra buffer would be reassuring....
That's the point. You can "pretty much make it up on a full charge without too much concern". If you couldn't make w/o preconditioning would the extra the extra 8-10 miles of possible range encourage you to try? From my experience the range on a full charge is too dependent on external variables that I would not be that bold. Think "head wind" or "drop in temperature" or "small detour due to accident" etc.
 

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That's the point. You can "pretty much make it up on a full charge without too much concern". If you couldn't make w/o preconditioning would the extra the extra 8-10 miles of possible range encourage you to try? From my experience the range on a full charge is too dependent on external variables that I would not be that bold. Think "head wind" or "drop in temperature" or "small detour due to accident" etc.
You are bang on correct Q!!!

My winter range at sea level at 5C is about 320km, so getting up to the ski hill 250km away should be a no-brainer, right? There are DCFC stations along the way, so no problem to stop, if necessary. BUT..... without stopping to charge I'm always worried with that last 18km going straight up the mountain. Will try the preconditioning move next time we go skiing (in 2 weeks, I think) and can report back regarding how much it helps.

As you all suggest, I may notice a minor improvement in range/consumption - but if I'm getting anxious on the road, I will still pull over for a little more juice.
 

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I am spending a couple of days in the snow and mountain in Gaspésie, Qc. It is 750km away from home. When I left home, temperature was -1c, but I forgot to program my departure the day before. At 7am, I set the departure time at 9:30am, but apparently too late for the battery preconditioning, only the cabin was warm, and battery was still at -1c… My first stop was after 250km of highway at 105km/h, and the battery was at 9c. Not enough to allow full recharge speed. I peaked at 50kw, mostly at 48kw, and battery was at 22c when I reached 80% of SOC. For the next stop, I managed to stop cabin HVAC 20 km before the charger, and found out the battery temperature went up by 2 degrees during that time. Enough to reach 19c when I started the charge and I was able to get 82kw, as usual. The Ipace heater can really do 1 thing at a time cabin OR battery. I think I am going to repeat this pattern next time if ambiant temp is not too cold. Stopping cabin HVAC really help battery to warm up before charging.
 

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Some updates: On my way back (750km), I have set the departure time at 7:00am, but temperature during the night was below -20c. I checked the battery temperature when I started : -10c, and ambient temp : -15c. I don't know why the battery did not reach +20c with a precondition setting. The cabin temp was +20c, as expected. Knowing that the battery warms before the cabin, does the battery cooled down from +20c to -10c while warming up the cabin because of the cold weather (-20c) ? The GOM was indicating 260km of range with 100% of SOC. I've never saw such a low range with a full battery. The battery was warming a bit while driving, but only reached +7c at first stop, not enough to allow +/- 80kwh of charge, 48kwh was the max I was able to get. I have noticed that you need to reach +/- 17c to have those 80kwh when you charge. So stopping the HVAC and doing some "yoyo" with the accelerator when it was safe to do it helped to get a fast charging session in those cold conditions. Because of the cold condition, we did more stop than anticipated, charging from 10ish % to 50%, and then moving to the next stop 120-140km away. It was not really a problem since in Quebec we have a lot of chargers pretty much every 50km on main roads.
Preconditionning the battery while you want to charge in cold temperature is really a missing feature that JLR could easily add SOTA. What are they waiting for ?
 

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Have you ever noticed this in the parameter list?
Rectangle Tints and shades Font Pattern Event


I wonder what other settings there are and how could it be hanged. That setting might be good for summer/warm months but not optimal for winter/cold.

I'd live with a warm battery giving better range in winter and use seat + steering wheel heating for initial warmth.

Yes, iGuide/owners manual states that the battery temperature is maintained to give optimal performance for the departure time if the car is attached to a charger. Apparently they didn't teach the cat to read and comprehend.
 

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Yes, I know, and there seems to be a API to change this, but the API call does not change anything. You can see this in Ardevd's doc : Jaguar InControl API.

The value are : PRIORITIZE_RANGE and PRIORITIZE_COMFORT.

It is unfortunate that we can't change this setting depending on conditions.

Rectangle Font Screenshot Parallel Software
 

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On long trip, I usually mentally add the real km I drove and the GOM prediction on a regular basis to gauge how realistic is the GOM. In this case, with those temperature, and cold battery, yes the real range was about 260km.
 

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That would seem accurate. I've only completed one trip in such conditions (-4 degrees F), and got 168miles. This was an out and back trip of ~80miles, starting before dawn and returning after sunset, where the temp never got above 0 degrees F all day and the car sat for 7-8hrs at ambient temp.
Would be interesting to see how low the cars could go. Is there a temperature limit on the Li ion batteries? I remember a horrid night back in the 80's in the Chicagoland area when many lead acid batteries in cars sitting in on street parking "froze" even in new cars and new batteries.
 

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You had pretty much the same condition as I had, with same number. It was the worst condition I ever had on a long journey , 750km/466mi, ambient temp was -15c/5f all day long with some headwind. Hopefully, we had plenty of charger everywhere. We did it in 11h 1/2.
I know that on my Nissan Leaf 2014, when the battery temp drops below -18c, the BMS starts heating the battery until -10c, if you had more than 30% of SOC, otherwise the battery stays at those low temp and could be damaged. I guess the IPace keeps the battery in a healthy zone by itself (the IPace can't be worst that the Leaf...:) )
 
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