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Model Year: 2020
Mileage: 5,573 miles
12V Battery Issue: N
Main Battery Issue: N
I seem to have the same issue others have stated and have posted about it, 201 range after a full 100% charge, consistent 201 range after any driving and environmental pattern/history. Reset the GOM it went to 234 the EPA stated range then has slowly decreased and is down to 204 today after a full charge today. I suspect it will level off back again at 201. Unlikely this is a battery issue and more than likely some kind of programming characteristic for some untold JLR reason as many others have this same 201 range issue. One would like to have an accurate range and SOC/DOC and more detailed charging history. As others, hope JLR is listening and chooses to prioritize giving us this.
 
No issues

Model Year: 2019
Mileage: 6500
12V Battery Issue: N
Main Battery Issue: N

Range has always shown 201 miles at full charge. Then gives me warnings as I get down to about 20 mi. in the "tank". Dealer said the issue didn't really matter; I think I could easily get 240 out of the battery if I drove the speed limit and carefully. By I usually get 70% of the stated mileage because I'm a crazy driver.
 
Model Year: 2019
Dealer said the issue didn't really matter
Dealers are always like this when its a warrantee claim; "all iPaces do it", bla bla bla. Personal history has proven their tune changes when not a warrantee claim and they're making money off of you...can't image why that is. 0:):laugh::|:grin2:
 
As others, hope JLR is listening and chooses to prioritize giving us this.
I truly believe JLR has serious battery issues with the iPace and the wonky range meter is the best disguise they have going for them. Now I won't speculate as to whether that's intentional or a coincidence but I'd wager all of us with bad batteries first got the "oh no, your battery is fine, it's just the silly range meter giving you trouble! No big deal!" It's not until you push and show hard evidence that they take it seriously.

It makes me wonder how many people have bad batteries but due to interactions with dealerships & JLR just think the range is normal for an iPace. If I was just using the iPace for city driving that's exactly what I'd think.
 
I truly believe JLR has serious battery issues with the iPace and the wonky range meter is the best disguise they have going for them. Now I won't speculate as to whether that's intentional or a coincidence but I'd wager all of us with bad batteries first got the "oh no, your battery is fine, it's just the silly range meter giving you trouble! No big deal!" It's not until you push and show hard evidence that they take it seriously.

It makes me wonder how many people have bad batteries but due to interactions with dealerships & JLR just think the range is normal for an iPace. If I was just using the iPace for city driving that's exactly what I'd think.
I am not sure this is accurate. I think most people can tell if their range has dropped by miles/percentage of battery and trying to “disguise it” won’t work. GOMs are always an issue and someone may have been overzealous in trying to have a more “stable” algorithm for range remaining. Because I am guessing it is more distrusting to most people to see numbers change rapidly than getting an exact accurate range. If they always guess to 201 and leave some range extra no one will complain, but if they run out they will. This is like ICE cars that leave 10-20 miles hidden in the distance to empty.
 
I doubt they've done it on purpose, that's true, but that doesn't excuse the useless GOM, nor does the fact that other companies use horrible software for their range meters. If they just used your last 50 to 100 miles kwh/100 miles (already available on the trip computers) versus current KWH capacity, the range meter would be much more accurate and linear. It'd also be simpler software that's less likely to glitch. Why these manufacturers overcomplicate the software, I don't know.

Regardless of the range meter debate, I really wonder how many people have a battery capacity issue and don't realize it. There's no warning sign to identify the issue other than WattCat or taking a long trip, so people that bought the car for city use would be unlikely to realize the problem without delving deeper. It shows 100% charge and no faults. If you think you have poor range and bring it to a dealer without having researched it yourself, I guarantee you they'll tell you it's fine and send you on your way.
 
Regardless of the range meter debate, I really wonder how many people have a battery capacity issue and don't realize it. There's no warning sign to identify the issue other than WattCat or taking a long trip, so people that bought the car for city use would be unlikely to realize the problem without delving deeper. It shows 100% charge and no faults. If you think you have poor range and bring it to a dealer without having researched it yourself, I guarantee you they'll tell you it's fine and send you on your way.
I have said from the beginning that it would be much more useful to show actual available energy versus a percentage. Without knowing percentage of what, it is not that helpful
 
Discussion starter · #88 ·
I've had an EV in some form for almost 10 years and hybrids before that. There are so many variables in calculating range and not one has got it exactly right. My Model S always says the same thing after an 80% charge. Usually 172-177. Summer, winter; it doesn't matter. But the rate at which the miles tick-off is a lot higher in the winter. Yesterday we drove up to a Jag dealer and by the time we got home, would have gotten 140 miles out of the charge if we had driven perfectly. With heaters on and 70mph on the freeway, I'm guessing range would have been closer to 120 miles out of the listed 172 we started with. Our 2011 Volt was actually a little smarter and would show available miles in the 20s during the colder months and 40+ in summer.
 
Discussion starter · #90 ·
I am curious what was your outside temp? I don’t think I have ever gotten less than 160 when temp was around 30 outside even when driving freeway.

Only mid 40s or so. Wife was cold though and she had her seat fully heated and jacked the temp up. Freeway speed was 68-70. Not the most efficient driving. My car is also a 7yr old 60kwh.
 
Seems to be a lot of bad batteries which makes me want to slowly back away before getting in too deep. Completely unscientific, but it would be nice to compile some data in one place. Doesn't look like this forum can do a proper embedded poll, so I'll ask for an old-fashioned reply post and I'll compile the results.

Please answer these:

Model Year:
Mileage:
12V Battery Issue: Y/N
Main Battery Issue: Y/N
There might not be a battery issue that I know of, but I won't say for certain to avoid the jinx: There could be a battery issue/There probably is a battery issue
Model Year:2019 FE
Mileage: 10312
12V Battery Issue: N
Main Battery Issue: N
 
Model Year: 2019
Mileage: 8500
12V Battery Issue: N
Main Battery Issue Y
GOM = 212 miles at 100%, 55.3 kWh
 
Model Year: 2019 FE
Mileage: 22,330 miles
12V Battery Issue: N
Main Battery Issue N
GOM = 243 miles at 100%, 86.3 kWh

I'm able to get 220 real world highway miles keeping up with traffic at about 80 MPH (averaging over 65 MPH for the trip).
 
Model Year: 2019
Mileage: 20157
12v Battery Issue: Yes, at around 19K miles. Symptom was Traction Battery Fault several times in two weeks
Main Battery Issue: N
GOM = 219 miles at 100%. Most driving is highway at 80mph. Mild Florida weather.
 
Updating this for some cool weather data ...

I earlier reported 220 real world highway miles from some warm weather runs. Last night in low 40/upper 30 degree temps I had a highway run of 171 miles. The car reported using about 68.317 kWh at an average speed of 59 MPH through what passes for hilly terrain in Florida (Orlando to Crystal River and back). I was very conservative with the cabin heat whereas I had the A/C blasting on warm weather run. The car reported having 10.58 kWh in the pack when I arrived home . So even though the car reported a respectable 40 kWh/100 mile efficiency, I'd adjust cold weather range down from 220 to 190 miles for my particular car and driving style.
 
Model Year: 2019 (demo purchased April ‘20 with ~3,200 miles)
Mileage: 6,800 (thanks COVID)
12V Battery Issue: N
Main Battery Issue: Y, two bad modules.

Symptoms: Two short trips on the interstate (~15 miles) completely drained the (nearly) fully charged traction battery.

Resolution: None yet. Took two weeks to officially diagnose, modules out of stock in US & UK, no estimate when modules will be available. Now in fourth week kitty-less.
 
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