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19 I-pace HSE Polaris/Fuji white with most options and a lot of accessories
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Using this 4 foot extension https://www.amazon.com/Terminal-Connecters-Extension-Connector-Maintainer/dp/B079ZTBHYK

I'm now able to connect a battery maintainer for the 12V starter battery, and theoretically provide a 12V power source if the battery discharges too much.

We have several posts where the 12V battery has gone flat and doors won't unlock, etc.
Yes, there is the mechanical door lock behind the handle on the driver door and the frunk release in the front right footwell.
We've also seen where in one case the mechanical lock was missing after maintenance (service bulletin) repair was done to the driver door handle.

Being a pessimist, often with bad luck, I added this cable to allow attachment of a 12V external connection without the need to access the frunk or remove the central trim panel in the frunk.
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I used a couple of pieces of baling wire as fish tape. I sent one piece up through the tow hook hole, past the foam, into the frunk area, hooked a second piece to it and pulled it down through the hole. I attached the extension cable to the 2nd baling wire piece and pulled the cable into the frunk. Attachment point were readily available on the battery connections. I only had to remove the 2 10mm nuts, attach the ring ends, and re-install the nuts.

The end hanging out of the hole above can be neatly tucked inside the hole without interfering with tow hook if that is ever needed.
 

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@Ayepace

Link the parts. The rest seems easy enough. I already have a battery tender for my motorcycle. This could come in handy for sure.
Nevermind...big brother got it covered because i MOST DEFINITELY did NOT look for this today, but when I logged into Amazon to look this is what came up.

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:oops::oops:o_O

At least they gave me a 10% off coupon for invading my thoughts. Going to start wearing aluminum hats!!!!
 

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Ran my charge lines up to the windshield drain tray. Ran a bicycle tube over the lines with small holes in the bottoms of the tubing for water drainage. A loop of the wire is loosely captured by tie raps, allowing pulling the connector out another 5 " when needed.
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Using this 4 foot extension https://www.amazon.com/Terminal-Connecters-Extension-Connector-Maintainer/dp/B079ZTBHYK

I'm now able to connect a battery maintainer for the 12V starter battery, and theoretically provide a 12V power source if the battery discharges too much.
I just bought one of these cables, and I already had a 750mA smart maintainer that I've used on ICE vehicles.

I need to leave the I-Pace for four months. Is there any harm in just leaving the smart charger connected for the entire time? Would there be any confusion introduced with the Battery Monitoring System or the state of the Aux battery?
 

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...and one other question.

Will a 750mA charger be sufficient to overcome the drains that are normally present in the 12v system?
Hi GoldRiver,
Can't say that I have kept my maintainer for several months, but I have left it connected for a week without issues on a couple of occasions. It was able to top off the battery. I just have a cheap 800mA unit (link below) so not much difference than your 750mA.

 

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The plugs on my wiring harness were too large to fit through the tow hook hole, so I went with Trielectric's route except I'll be storing the plug in a different place under the removable cover near the windshield water fill point:

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When I need to use the charger, I can run it along the gully for the hood strut and into the windshield drain tray:

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The downside to this method is that you'd still need to use mechanical frunk release in the event of a 12v battery failure, but this chunky wiring harness didn't leave me with many options.
 
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I installed two of Ayepace's 12v emergency wires, one from the Aux battery and one from the Starter battery. I ran them up to the windshield wiper drain area and left slack in them so I could pull them out and plug into them if needed with the hood closed. With my latest failure of my starter battery, I had my doors unlocked during the failure so I could get to the hood release inside the car. What has been nice, is that even though I can open the hood, I don't have to remove the frunk motor plastic cladding to get to the battery for charging. I bought a 3rd cord that I have bolted to my LIP 12v battery and can leave it in the frunk and have it plugged into the emergency wiring. I had to cut the 3rd wire coming from the LIP battery and reverse the connector so it would plug into the emergency wires. A little black electrical goop on the old red wire and red paint on the push connector to keep from making a big mistake. This has awakened my car twice now and it appears I can drive it to the dealer Friday after reviving it with the LIP battery.
 

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19 I-pace HSE Polaris/Fuji white with most options and a lot of accessories
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
To be clear about this. They are not Ayepace's cables, emergency wires or any-other-named wiring product. I do not make them. I do not sell them. I have no known financial benefit from any company making or selling them.

However, you are welcome for making use of my concept and glad to see it was (unfortunately?) of some use.

:)
 

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19 I-pace HSE Polaris/Fuji white with most options and a lot of accessories
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
For pre-MY21, that might work provided "the other" battery isn't dead too. There have been times when both were dead. One might want to clamp the positive jumper to one of the nuts at the top center or upper left in photo below of the auxiliary battery. Top center nut is probably the easiest but the nut on the left avoids blowing the fuse. The heavy cable attaching to the top nut is the charging power feed from the power supply distribution box.

Motor vehicle Auto part Automotive exterior Gas Automotive air manifold

Note: protective red cap over the positive connections, and ground cable (attaches to post in lower right) have been removed for clarity in the photo above. That cable going down from the 100A fuse is what supplies 12V to the brake booster module, park lock actuator, and front EPIC.

One can power release the bonnet if the starter battery is not the victim. A power lead to external the car is also more convenient than getting to the manual bonnet release in those cases.

MY21+ don't have "the other" battery. They won't have the option.
 

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I started my I-Pace with my 14amp Lithium Iron battery this morning and drove it 12 miles to the dealer with no problems. Sunday, I had my starter battery go down to 3 volts shortly after driving it home from a 6 mile drive. I used the same type wiring harnesses remote wires that were suggested by AyePace. The dealer tested everything and they have ordered both the starter & the aux batteries to replace them. They gave me an approximate 5 days for them to arrive. My current batteries were not in good enough shape to do the testing they wanted to do. Told them I would drive the car back home until they got the batteries. I did and the car ran like normal except the dash was all set to the default settings. The Service Manger came out to watch me start the car. I pulled the little LIP battery out of my knapsack, set it on the windshield, pulled the wiring out of the windshield cowl, plugged the battery in, walked around and got in the drivers seat, depressed the brake pedal, pushed the start button, pushed neutral, set the parking brake, got out of the car, unplugged the battery, put the battery back in its box. All less than a minute. I was ready to go. The look on the service manager face was classic. The car shows no noticeable problems when running. I believe I will be going to lunch in it this week. This web site is great!👍
 
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