Found another charging bug - Jaguar I-Pace EV400 Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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Found another charging bug

I went below stated 0% today and while charging back up with my 7kW cable I noticed that at about 13% SoC the current displayed on the charging cable box went from 32Amp (where it had been all along) to 30... then at 16% it went to 28Amp ... then at 17% it went to 27Amp ... then at 18% to 25.5Amp ... at which point I had enough. Evidently the car was throttling Level 2 charging !!

No it wasn't heat. No it wasn't the charging cable. Yes it was the car, which also started predicting a longer and longer time to full charge whose trajectory clearly indicated an anticipation of further throttling. And it displayed a slowdown in the increase of SoC and predicted miles.

Yes it was the car, which after disconnecting the cable, locking the car, and then restarting the session (within a span of 5 minutes) happily started charging at 32 amps again and has not changed that since. I'm now at 52% SoC and the charging has been nicely linear since the restart.

Arg!!
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Aaand another bug. All of a sudden the Remote app's reported "Time remaining" dropped by over an hour to exactly 5 hours 0 minutes and then disappeared. Phone reboot = nada. Until now it was correct. The car still displays the correct time (well I don't know if it's fully correct, but it's consistent). Restarted charging session and the app is now stuck at 5 hours 0 minutes while the car is still 'correct'. All the other data seem right so it's not some random interwebs connection issue. Oh wait, the app is back to correct now. WTF.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 09:46 PM
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I often charge at work at 20 amps. The I-Pace charging time actually counts up in time from zero. At least I know how long it was charging. Somewhere at about 4 hours left it then starts counting down. Bizzaro.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 01:46 PM
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I am having a different charging problem. Car charges properly - am using an adapter to my Tesla charger. The charge indicator while driving drops dramatically with city driving and/or freeway driving. I have kept track for 3 days and basically there is a difference of about 48% between the odometer which I believe is accurate and the charge. Example, charge indicator will go from 240 to 192, and odometer will go from 1121 to 1145. Went to service, the coolant leak was discovered and repaired, thought that would fix the problem but above has now been happening since the car was picked up from service. Advice? Lemon?
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 02:46 PM
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It seems like the most junior engineer at JLR was put in charge (har) of the recharging system.

At a minimum, it was designed by folk who have no practical EV driving experience. The list is long, and I won't even harass them about the charging problems with the app.

1) No lighted charging port. This is a important feature that is cheap to implement.
2) No 7kW L1/L2 EVSE included in the production car. It was included in the prototypes, and ALL Teslas, even the $45k one, and some other EVs have true L2 cables with them as well. It's not much more than an L1 cable.
3) The car needs to show charging status while charging. Because if somebody sees no light on the car, they will assume you are not charging.
4) Locking the cable to the cars for L1/L2 charging is not necessary, and just increases the cost and things that can go wrong. Ditto for locking the charging door. Nobody can siphon electrons out.
5) The car does not like EVSEs that delay charging.
6) Should have had a 3ph and 277v options to future proof it. 277v is the voltage you see in parking lot lights or commercial buildings and Tesla supports it. 3ph is the power the power commercial buildings and much of Europe is wired for. It should be an option, only those who want to pay for it should have to. Because it takes 3x the on-board circuits. Added bonus? Slow 208vac L2's are common at destinations. A 3ph charger will make it run at full 240vac speed. For the US crowd, let me give you a taste of what it would do for a work or destination charger. Using only a 30 amp circuit breaker and 10 gauge wire (cheap), and obeying the 80% rule, that is 24 amps per phase. So for 208 service - 8.6 kW with a thinner, lighter, cheaper charging cable. For the more common 480 service, 20 kW charging, charge 20% per hour after losses. 277 loses less % efficiency. Now our normal 1-ph 32a x 240v L2 charging is 15% faster when using 277 1ph. Note that it is simply a component and firmware decision to make an EVSE or on-board charger accept anywhere from 90 to 277 VAC. Not a significant cost since wires and components are rated far higher than 240 volts.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Icewoman View Post
I am having a different charging problem. Car charges properly - am using an adapter to my Tesla charger. The charge indicator while driving drops dramatically with city driving and/or freeway driving. I have kept track for 3 days and basically there is a difference of about 48% between the odometer which I believe is accurate and the charge. Example, charge indicator will go from 240 to 192, and odometer will go from 1121 to 1145. Went to service, the coolant leak was discovered and repaired, thought that would fix the problem but above has now been happening since the car was picked up from service. Advice? Lemon?
The "miles left" estimator is just that, an estimator. If you always drive the same route, at the same temp, using the same technique, it's pretty accurate. It 'learns' your driving style.
I drove 155 miles yesterday and the range estimator was very pessimistic when I left.
Then I drove 155 miles back this AM and the estimator exaggerated my possible range.

First trip was based on my recent previous driving, which was driving like a fool, bursts of speed over 100 mph, floor it at many stoplights, go deep into corners before braking. So it 'learned' I drive like an animal. But then I drove calmly the next day. So it guessed too low. Now it adjusted it's guess, but on the way back I used more power per mile than the day before, so it overestimated.

PS - Teslas do not estimate range based on your driving style, like 99% of other cars sold today. If a Tesla says 310 miles, it can yield from 180 miles to 400 miles, but will always say ~310. They might as well just put a voltage gauge in there.
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Last edited by McRat; 02-24-2019 at 02:59 PM.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 04:43 PM
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I assume the locking cable is a Europe design. I understand for public L2 you need your own cable and it locks on the vehicle to prevent theft.
Sometimes I am just glad we were not all shipped right hand drive vehicles....
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 04:57 PM
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I assume the locking cable is a Europe design. I understand for public L2 you need your own cable and it locks on the vehicle to prevent theft.
Sometimes I am just glad we were not all shipped right hand drive vehicles....
Yes but a SIMPLE setting would allow selection of always lock, lock while charging or never lock. Big problem for shared charging etiquette.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 05:03 PM
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Yes but a SIMPLE setting would allow selection of always lock, lock while charging or never lock. Big problem for shared charging etiquette.
Or add one more setting options, unlock when charging complete or reaches a certain user defined level. This would allow if charging at work or public charging station for the vehicle to release the pin and thus save one from having to rush to unlock or move the vehicle if not needed.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 05:27 PM
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Yes but a SIMPLE setting would allow selection of always lock, lock while charging or never lock. Big problem for shared charging etiquette.
Yes I live this frustration five days a week. I could leave my car to charge until the next person takes their turn. I could get 1 to 4 hours more charging per day. But no I must move.
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