Thanks for the reply Curt but rest assured nobody is asking you or anyone to fix my car, there's nothing broken.
I basically wanted to share an accurate good temperature low speed test where instead of relying on speculation, instrumentation, gauges, GOM's or journey counters, I would instead simply drive the car 50 miles in ideal conditions then just filled the tank again to determine the EV's true mileage. It's now clear the cars remaining mileage and percentage of charge (SOC) and information are incorrect.
Here's some real facts - when I divide my 52 miles by the 21kw needed to fill the battery, it averages 2.47 miles per kw or 207 miles for a 84 kw pack - this is average mileage for the I Pace. Therefore, nothing is broke other than I-Pace's time-keeping of instrumentation and gauges. In addition, the I-Pace's processor is also sending incorrect information to Wattcat, causing it to be incorrect as well to show me I added 30 kw when in fact it was only 21kw.
Is this starting to make sense to you now?
Enjoy - Mike
You are inserting an assumption into your analysis and I think this is why you may be missing our point. You have some measured values:
1: The car travelled 52km.
2: The battery state of charge changed from 100% to 64%, so a change of 34%.
3: You refilled with 21kWh reported by your charger (ignoring charge losses).
From this, you calculate that your consumption was 2.47 m/kWh. so far so good.
NOW, if you ASSUME a good battery, then 2.47 m/kWh * 84kWh = 207m, so that suggests the consumption is probably right, but it says NOTHING about your battery health since you are assuming 84kWh. All that can tell you in consumption is about right.
Look at another result of your measurement. 54m consumed 34% of your battery, You can use this to estimate your battery consumption. IF your battery were indeed 84kWh, then 54m should have only consumed 25%, NOT 34%. from your own 34% measurement, 21kWh/34% = 61.7 kWh, below the assumed 84kWh. Something is not right with your battery or the measured data.
The next test would be to drive a longer trip. If you battery is good, you should be able to get 207m, or close. If your battery is having issues, then you will get closer to 152m. Drive that (or a little less so you don't get stuck) and then look at the miles driven and the charge level. That test will be conclusive.